Clutch

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by Racie35, Nov 22, 2012.

  1. Racie35

    Racie35 Member

    these auto clutches are junk.....is there an alternative?
     

  2. jbcruisin

    jbcruisin Member

    Quenton can make them work. Contact him.
     
  3. Racie35

    Racie35 Member

    I know he can...just I think id rather something different...for what these cost they should work better.
     
  4. Hal the Elder

    Hal the Elder Member

    You bet there's an alternative...QUENTON!

    My 2005 NE-5 had an auto clutch too, which I referred to as a "Dynaflow", from the old Buick automatic transmissions. I hated it!

    I ordered the components of a Slip Clutch from Dr. Q., and it's the best mod I ever made on OSCAR!

    No power-wasting slippage. After slipping the clutch until about 10 MPH and letting the belts lock up, it's direct drive all the way!

    I followed up with a Gates drive belt, too.

    HAL
     
  5. Racie35

    Racie35 Member

    I think these shoes are too light to engage firmly at lower speeds and thats why they slip so bad till wound up......I may drill and tap a few holes in em for adding small bolts for weight.......I'd take a cvt over this garbage any day. Dumb bolt to tensioner is a lousy piece also....needs a bolt secured with c clips using shims to space things.........overall a junk part
     
  6. Hal the Elder

    Hal the Elder Member

    The Slip-Clutch is utterly simple and reliable.

    All it consists of is a pulley assembly with 2 sheaves on a common shaft, which is under spring tension. One sheave is connected to the engine with a primary v-belt, and the other to the driving wheel with another v-belt.

    The clutch is disengaged by squeezing the clutch lever, which pulls on the tensioning spring, allowing slippage between both belts.

    No friction shoes, centrifugal weights, or linkages to wear or get out of adjustment.

    The slip clutch is the ONLY way to go! Get yours today, operators standing by! Call 999-YOUSLIP

    HAL
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2012
  7. Racie35

    Racie35 Member

    who has em?
     
  8. Hal the Elder

    Hal the Elder Member

    As I stated a few posts ago, I ordered my slip clutch components from Quenton.

    HAL
     
  9. Racie35

    Racie35 Member

    oh okay.....I was thinking you were happy with the auto clutch......now I see
     
  10. Hal the Elder

    Hal the Elder Member

    I'd Like To Edit One Of My CLUTCH Posts, But I'm Not Permitted To.

    hal
     
  11. Racie35

    Racie35 Member

    okay....after some trial and error I have this auto working...had to secure a different bolt to the swing arm tensioner which for some reason was locked down tight , I lossened it so the arm would work with the spring.
    put a plate behind the threaded hole (wasn't easy cuz its cast) then carefully shimmed everything so there's no bind anymore. Drove the bike and took the clutch off for sanding 4 times and now its alot better. I think I'll leave it be for a few miles then redo it.
    hafta keep an eye on the sleeve area the bearing rides on because all I hear about is that getting tore up.....get that redone before it explodes.
    anyhow, lotta work just to have an expensive clutch working but it is .......oh, and this bikes kinda fast....just above idle is fine for me.
     
  12. kayaker58

    kayaker58 Member

    How to get the Clutch off the bike? I mean which direction is the threads on the center bolt? Regular threads? Don't want to bust bolt off forcing it wrong way!! Do need and impact gun to spin it off?

    Got both belts new, gates, and still adjusting as have the squeal going on when taking off, but why do I feel like the belts are bunching up, feels like and old tire as goes around when starting off..
    Thanks:)
     
  13. Racie35

    Racie35 Member

    the threads are reversed for removing that bolt........thats so it doesnt spin itself off
     
  14. Hal the Elder

    Hal the Elder Member

    HEY KAYAKER,

    I hope you'll eventually be replacing your Auto Clutch with a Slipper!

    Your bike won't waste revs, but you may want to use the "Manual Low Gear" occasionally!

    I always let mine slip, sometimes with a pedal assist, until I get to about 13-14 MPH, then let the belts lock up.

    Its a nice, solid feel from then on!

    HAL
     
  15. Racie35

    Racie35 Member

    took some time to get my auto working properly also Kayaker, but it is doable. there's the option Hal speaks of also and now there's a better clutch offered by the guy from taiwan that does all these also.....looking at it , Its got wider shoes and a hardened sleeve area, addressing one of the problems Quenton fixes for everyone.
    I was pretty mad at mine till I got it working but now I'm settled
     
  16. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Slip clutch has regular threads, whereas the automatic clutch has reversed threads.

    The auto clutch can be modified to work well, at least most of them can be upgraded. The latest version from Tiawan is a lost cause, and I am stll trying to develope an upgrade.

    How well can the auto clutch work? My Whizzer dirt drag bike can lift the front wheel off the ground during enguagement.

    If the bearing sleeve is replaced with a Rockwell 58 rated sleeve [the original isn't hard!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!]it will solve 98% of the problems.

    Trying to make the clutch work without replacing the bearing sleeve will result in more expense, and a lot of wasted time. The reason is simple, once the original sleeve destructs the shoes will no longer "mate" with the clutch housing from the same angle and the bearing will soon defect from metal shaving from the soft sleeve. Although re-surfacing the shoes will help the "wobble" from a bad bearing sleeve will negate most of the surface contact. BTW the bearing is very expensive, so it is wise to upgrade prior to trashing the bearing.

    It is also important to understand the Whizzer automatic clutch, as it isn't a quick-lock type. The Whizzer clutch is designed to slip somewhat, then goes into full lock. If it were to lock too quickly the motor would "bog" at low RPMs [like letting the clutch out too quickly on a standard shift automobile]. When working correctly the clutch should go into full enguagement at approx. 2500 to 2800 RPMs.

    I have upgraded over 600 of these clutches with 100% success.

    Be very careful about the clutch from Tiawan, as it is the worst ever from Joe Lin. The sleeve still isn't Hard! Many of the sleeves have deep tool marks where the needle bearing rides. The clutch can't have a hard sleeve installed because he has removed all the metal near the hub and it will snap off if machined to accept the new bearing sleeve. Also the shoes AREN'T any wider than the later versions of the clutch supplied by Whizzer USA. All auto clutches with the aluminum drive pulley use the wider shoes. The clutch as sold won't enguage at all unless you install the correct lighter springs [hopefully he will send future versions with the correct springs so the clutch will at least work for a little while].

    I am currently designing a new clutch for the Whizzer and will use Max-Torque shoes, spring, clutch bell, and misc. clips & spacers internally. As soon as I finish the prototypes, Max-Torque will consider making the entire unit [what a dumb idea... making them in America].

    Have fun,
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2012
  17. Racie35

    Racie35 Member

    If anyone knows .....Quenton does and apparently that newer clutch from taiwan isn't making him happy .
     
  18. kayaker58

    kayaker58 Member

    Thanks for replies:)

    Quenton, (If the bearing sleeve is replaced with a Rockwell 58 rated sleeve)
    1. How much for this Sleeve?

    2. Can be done @ Home, by DIY?

    3. How to know Bearing Sleeve is still ok to replace with Your Sleeve? Only 200 miles on it.

    4. Plan to do Your Motor Upgrade but the Tahoe fuel pump required fixing all of a sudden:(

    Thanks for taking the Time for Us Guys and Prayin for Yall:)
     
  19. Racie35

    Racie35 Member

    Kayaker,
    I dont think someone at home could replace that...I'm guessing you have to turn down the hub and press on the new hardened one? maybe surface it afterwards?
     
  20. kayaker58

    kayaker58 Member

    Racie, hope can be done by us guys:) Thanks:)
     
Loading...