Brakes Coaster brake shoe

Discussion in 'Bicycle Repair' started by Torques, Jan 12, 2007.

  1. Torques

    Torques Guest

    I'm not sure exactly how the rear hub operates on a coaster brake, maybe a little brake shoe. My question is this: Since I use my brakes a lot slowing from 20 mph or so, my brake is starting to get rear touchy (sensitive), similar to my last hub which eventually locked up. I assume that these coaster brake hubs can't stand up to the braking on a beach cruiser that normally wouldn't be going faster than 10 mph or so. I thought my first hub failure might have been a fluke (failed at around 2000 miles in four months. I can't keep replacing rear hubs. I'm wondering if a rear disk can very easily be adapted to a beach cruiser?
     

  2. nogoodnic42

    nogoodnic42 Guest

    Coaster brakes are realitively easy inside and if taken care of will last forever. Coaster braked generate alot of heat especialy at the speeds we go and will eventually dry the grease out resulting in failure. The key is periodicaly takeing it apart and keeping it well lubed with a quality grease, I do mine roughly every 500 miles or if the wheel loosens up on me...Kelly
     
  3. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

  4. psuggmog

    psuggmog Guest

    There is a comprehensive article on overhauling coaster brake hubs on the Park Tool website. Lots of other info there also. They are a source of specialized bicycle tools as well.

    http://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=104


    Here is a picture from the above mentioned article.
    [​IMG]
     
  5. I never used coaster brakes. How do you use it? back pedaling?
    I heard they stop the wheel real strong.
     
  6. Torques

    Torques Guest

    Wow, nice pic, thanks for showing that and thanks for the link to the article, I'll check that out right away. One more question, when the brake starts to NOT release what is going on in there. My last wheel, couldn't even be turned by hand or moved on the ground by rolling the bike. If it does seize, does that mean the whole hub is ruined?
     
  7. psuggmog

    psuggmog Guest

    If it was my hub, I would take it apart and investigate the problem, especially if you have another wheel to use.
     
  8. nogoodnic42

    nogoodnic42 Guest

    Torques, it sounds like your wheel is binding. This happens because the nuts holding the innerds of your wheel in place may be too tight. I would recomend a rebuild befor you throw it away, you might need new bearings, they dont hold up well under presure...Kelly
     
  9. Torques

    Torques Guest

    Well, thanks for the help guys, the same exact symptoms existing on my first hub, bike is only five months old. When the bike is new brake seems a little weak, then breaks in, the brake start to become MORE sensitve as normal pressure it applied, then starts to grab more quickly than normal. I think the deacceleration speeds from twenty-five miles per hour don't help these hubs (beach cruiser), even though the engine helps deaccelate a little. The average beach cruiser brakes for speeds probably in the neighborhood of five to ten miles per hour. The friction forces involved in slowing down have if not already damaged those surfaces or diminished them. Maybe kind of like a cluth on a car or break pads, what have you, they will wear out. I am going shortly to purchase a rear side pull break which I don't really want to do but I'm gonna try to save the coaster break.
     
  10. try1897

    try1897 Guest

    Hi , I had the same problem with my coaster break. It was way too sensitive and would lock the tire up . My problem seemed to all start when the retainer broke and the lever went round and round . After that it never seemed to work right. we discussed the build up of heat and such but in the end all I did was clean the whole thing in the parts washer and reasemble it with super blue high temp wheel bearing grease. After a bit of adjusting its worked right ever since. I think a good cleaning every 500 miles is a good idea like the other guy said. The parts are hard steal and don't wear out easily if properly cared for..... T
     
  11. Torques

    Torques Guest

    Although I am capable of overhauling the rear hub, since I am putting around 650 miles per month on my bike, overhauling once a month is not acceptable. I will update my side pull rear brake project comes along tomorrow.
     
  12. Torques

    Torques Guest

    Well I discoverd the side-pull brake is not wide enough to even go over the rear fender and I am not going to cut the rear fender. So back to coaster brake.
     
  13. psuggmog

    psuggmog Guest

    I have rim brakes on the back of my ratbike. They were made by schwinn a long long time ago. They clamp onto the seatstays and don't interfer with the fenders. There were some wide armed side pull brakes made for medium weight bikes during the late 50s and 60s. Schwinn corvettes had them. They were made by weinmann. That type of brake might work. If you want to stick with a coaster brake round up an old hub made by bendix, new departure, fitchel and sachs instead of the modern offshore ones.
     
  14. The temp dropped here today in the northeast and there must have been moisture in my brake cable and it froze a couple of hours ago when I went for a joyride at work :( just means I have to take it easy on my way home tonight (working a 14 hour day today!) also :(
     
  15. Cookie

    Cookie Guest

    Check the break arm also they will wear out in an oval shape ..I ordered some on ebay they where the heavy duity ones and so far the one I put on is working good.....watch out for the thin ones they will break or bend when they should not.

    Cookie
     
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