coaster brake with sprocket ?

Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by gauge, Aug 22, 2007.

  1. gauge

    gauge Guest

    i just recevied my dax 70 engine kit and im wondering if the sprocket will work with the rear coaster brake.:?:
     

  2. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    you will have to grind the center hole of sprocket a bit to clear the dust cover (little ring), and you might have to bend the brake arm so it clears the mounting bolts for sprocket

    dax shows a little and so does spookytooth in their install pages
    I thought it was here but can't seem to find it
     
  3. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    in my case (shimano cb-e110 coaster brake)...i had to enlarge the center hole to 1 3/4" to clear the hub, & bend the arm out to clear the sprocket hardware, then back in to meet the stay.

    hope the pics help a bit:
     

    Attached Files:

  4. gauge

    gauge Guest

    thanks for ure help
     
  5. Yep, exactly. Grind it, then bend it. If you have to dish your wheel over to the bicycle drive side then you may need to add a spacer on the outside of the coaster arm to keep your RW aligned...or buy new rear sproket bolts with thinner heads so they dont hit the inside of the brake arm.

    Hey, nice moto drive pic's augi. that looks slick.
     
  6. whitedog

    whitedog Guest

    :confused: Augie, did you have to take your coaster brake arm off; install the sprocket; then put the arm back on? Is there some magic trick to do this? As it sits right now, I'm not sure how to proceed.
     
  7. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    you are soooo lucky i happen to have another coaster wheel here right now.
    yours may differ slightly, but this is the general idea.:
    Mvc-681f.jpg

    hold the arm, use a wrench on the nut and remove.
    grind out the center hole on the sprocket to fully clear any metal-to-metal contact.
    install sprocket.
    using a vise and hammer, bend up at the red line area to clear the sprocket bolts, then back down at the blue line area to meet the stay.
    put the arm back and tighten down with the nut.

    the arm attaches to the inner bearing cone, so be careful to not rotate it on the axle, or you may mess up your bearing adjustment.
     
  8. whitedog

    whitedog Guest

    Thanks. I'll give that a try tomorrow and see how it goes.:grin:
     
  9. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    Real good clear thread for this. Thanks Augie.
     
  10. whitedog

    whitedog Guest

    Thanks Augie. That did the trick. I just wasn't using a big enough persuader. I'll post some pix on my "saga" thread this evening.
     
  11. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

  12. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    :lol: scroll down and look in "similar threads" :p (i really like this new board :))

    still, that was very nice of you to post a reminder, it is a good thread. you sure are a nice guy, at least that's what i hear ;)

    whitedog: very good to know it helped, i'll be looking for new pics :cool:
     
  13. whitedog

    whitedog Guest

    Hi Augie,

    Pix are a little delayed due to some unexpected overtime at work. Hope to get to it this weekend if not sooner.
     
  14. Stryker

    Stryker Guest

    Related question for the coaster break.... did you just use an angle grinder to widen the hole of the sprocket to clear the dust cover, how precise does the hole have to be, perfectly round. My Coaster arm was moved while on the bike, I forgot to bolt it down while checking clearance. It hit the frame and rotated. did I screw it up? Thanks for the help.
    Stryker
     
  15. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    you can be off on your grinding, as long as the sprocket is still centered
    measure from rim to teeh and center it that way
    I took a washer that was a little bigger than the dust cap under the brake arm and used a marker to make a circle on sprocket... then grind away !!!
    (the sprocket is pretty hard steel, so it isn't a quick job !!!)
     
  16. Stryker

    Stryker Guest

    Thank you, makes a lot of sense. Off to buy a grinder
     
  17. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    about the brake-arm moving...so long as the axle didn't rotate inside the arm-"holder"/cone & change your bearing adjustment, you should be fine. rotate it back to where it should be, not all the way around, which would change the adjustment.
     
  18. Stryker

    Stryker Guest

    Oh good, thats what I did by pure luck. It seems to be braking fine. I have the back up in the front, just in case things get crazy.
     
  19. Stryker

    Stryker Guest

    Thanks for all the Help. I used a 1 3/4 hole saw hooked up to the drill press at low rpm. chewed right throught the sproket and was perfect to clear the dust cover. 1 3/4 did the trick
     
  20. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    you made that sound easy...glad it's working out. 1.75 is perfect, yup. how about some show-off pics when you're done?
     
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