I got a problem and a couple of questions hope this is rite section on forum ? First the problem ok coaster brakes lost its marbles today while doing 25 mph chain came off both the pedal and off motor side . Now locked up wheel ok got it home. Tore into it and everything fell out in a mess so took my mountain bike wheel off my other bike changed out sporocket . Put it on ok good no problem go and put it on back of bike. It barely fits ok so i now thighten the bolts down and roll bike and see the bolts that hold bearings in place moving in and tightning wheel and stops rolling question 1 Why is this doing what its doing ? question 2 How i stop that from doing that so it will roll freely ? and question 3 do they sell coaster brake rebuid kits with bearings clutches and all of it axle to and where get?
Brakes coaster brakes and mountain bike rims
- Thread starter wbuttry
- Start date
DuctTapedGoat
Active Member
1 & 2.
Sounds like you're missing the locknut that goes on the outside of the nuts that hold the bearings in, I forget what they're called at the moment. And that one nut I forget the name of, don't overtighten it! That could be the cause there as well, fingertight, just barely snugged.
If it's your coaster brake that's doing that and making your cranks move forward with the rolling, like it doesn't have a freewheel, then it's not coaster brakes, it's just a fixed gear and it's not good on a motored bike!!!
3
I'm sure they do, but I've never looked for one. Check out Dan's Comp. www.danscomp.com
The wheel in question is on a cranbrook it was the factory bike rim i had to remove the brake arm off of it to put on the sprocket.And now it wants to lock up in forward motion .Or it unwinds it's self from the oppisete side where the pedal chain hooks up. I cant put the brake arm back on no room for it after rubber liner and sprocket is attached. So i was wondering on how everybody else gets around that. Do they leave the rubber off and just and bolt straight to the spokes or what ?
happycheapskate
Active Member
There's the problem. If you removed the torque arm from your coaster brake, you are probably spinning the axle when you engage the brake. The coaster brake NEEDS the torque arm. Without it, you will lock up the hub on first application of the brake because the hub can overcome the axle nuts easily! The bike will pedal you!
Those weak coaster brake straps can break too!
I am using only 1 rubber washer, inside the spokes. The cog has an offset, and the cog is pressed directly onto the spokes. This has worked fine for 1 year. (I am using very thick spokes though!) The cog fits over the hub where the dust cover used to sit. The dust cover sits on top of the cog now (I flattened it some to fit under the brake arm) I can only use 410 bicycle chains on the motor though.
Check out the Hybriped Sprocket for $50 That works with non coaster brake wheels. You can convert to free-coaster and use a rim brake
Those weak coaster brake straps can break too!
I am using only 1 rubber washer, inside the spokes. The cog has an offset, and the cog is pressed directly onto the spokes. This has worked fine for 1 year. (I am using very thick spokes though!) The cog fits over the hub where the dust cover used to sit. The dust cover sits on top of the cog now (I flattened it some to fit under the brake arm) I can only use 410 bicycle chains on the motor though.
Check out the Hybriped Sprocket for $50 That works with non coaster brake wheels. You can convert to free-coaster and use a rim brake
happycheapskate
Active Member
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