Colorado 47 Model H

[Dirt Nerd]

MOST of that helped me. after adjusting, i was able to get the slack out of the chain (i even double checked the pitch and compared it to the rusty original), then turned my attention to the belts.

I took stuff apart and started to adjust. what I'm now seeing is the big belt is rubbing along the fender. See the pic.


the middle sheave will hit the magneto screw/cover when clutch is engaged. And i'm confused where to adjust the tension spring. The swing arm doesn't have much room to go up or down w/ the belts on.





Am i nuts? (don't answer that) Is the motor not aligned on the frame making the belts touch? It would seem that these micro adjustments could be avoided or easier to nudge. Sorry for all the questions. i've spent many joyous hours in the garage, but this is starting to make me think i need to pad the walls.

paul

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi Paul,


You can add spring tension by relocating the small spring attachment bracket. It has 4 holes, simply move the bracket to mount in different holes. leave spring in one of the end holes in the bracket and place the mounting bolt in one of the holes closer to the spring. You can also rotate the spring bracket attached to the seat post bolt to add additional tension to the spring.

The clutch pulley hitting the magneto cover is common, and about 95% of the covers I work with have a groove cut by the pulley. This is caused by current belt choices, as they are normally shorter than the originals "back in the day". Don't forget the belt adjustment is controlled slightly by the belt guard.


Have fun,

 

[Dirt Nerd]

Thanks again Quenton! I got the spring tension corrected. But the rear belt is rubbing on the rear fender in the factory notch. I took the motor off and slightly rotated the seat post motor mounts to the left. The motor is mounted from the right side per the manual. Is it a sin (or will i screw something up) if i mount the motor from the left side? this would give me the clearance. Or is my replacement sheave holding the belt too close to the spoke?

 

[Quenton Guenther]

It is possible the rear wheel isn't laced correctly. Often the wheel isn't laced on center and causes the belt to be too close to the tire [rim]. Although it is possible to move the motor to the left via the motor mounts, it will make everything too far to the left and most likely it will cause the belt to rub the frame. You might try a simple washer between the frame mount and the bracket attached to the motor on both top and bottom mounts.

Have fun,

 

[Dirt Nerd]

Thanks Q

Thought i'd take advantage of the warm (near 70F) day to wrench. Things are coming together. it's super close.

One thing that's missing that got past me is the compression valve lever. Can someone post a picture of what this should look like, and if you have parts, DM me? The guy who rebuilt my motor doesn't recall the lever.



And a few update pics to show you how excited i am on progress:

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi,

Are you talking about the compression release tappet cover [shown in your picture]?

Or are you referring to the lever mounted on the handlebar?

The "H" motor uses a 2 lever thumb control, one for the throttle cable and one for the compression release cable.
If that is the part you need try Memorylane Classics in Ohio. If you are after the tappet/compression release cover, then PM me, and I will help you find one.

Have fun,

 

[Dirt Nerd]

Hi,

Are you talking about the compression release tappet cover [shown in your picture]?

Looking for the lever that would mount on that tappet cover. What does the cable attach to on the engine?

I found this on a bike on eBay, but i don't remember the lever part when i took everything apart. I've gone through my parts bins, and the guy who rebuilt the motor doesn't recall the part.

 

[Quenton Guenther]

If you only need the lever that the cable attaches to, I have several NOS levers in stock.

The cable is attached to the motor via a bracket under the left rear head bolt [nearest exhaust], and the other end is connected to the thumb control ["H" motor].

The throttle cable is attached to motor via the same style bracket only under the right rear head bolt, then to the thumb control.

Hope this helps,
Have fun,

 

[Dirt Nerd]

Well, we finally hit some temps where I could get in the garage, replace the tappet cover and put gas in the tank.

I have a leak and i think i rebuilt the fuel bowl incorrectly, causing the shut off valve not to work. I got new leather gaskets from Ron Houk a while back, and the main needle valve is what i believe is failing.

Only other thing i could think of was the carb filling up and leaking some where.

The leak happened over night. and blistered my chain guard paint. I drained the tank. Fortunately i only put a cup or so in suspecting this might happen.

Any tips?

View attachment My leaky Whizzer.pdf

 

[Quenton Guenther]

If you find it difficult to stop the leak, a replacement fuel bowl is available [Memorylane Classics].



Have fun,