CVT Dax 10T Doesn't Fit, But...

Nuttsy

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I got my Dax 10 tooth drive sprocket on Fri. as well as my 56 tooth driven sprocket (not from Dax; Ebay item) so a weekend of tinkering ensued.
1st, the 10T didn't fit the shaft of the pocket bike CVT. It was slightly too small. That's a good thing! Actually, it is exactly the same size as the shaft which is why it wouldn't go on. A few minutes with a file and BINGO...perfect fit. If you do this, take it easy with the filing as the metal is really 2nd rate (not hardened) and files away quickly. Be careful!
I used a large nut drilled out to the shaft size (9/16") as a spacer/shim, to align the chain on the CVT shaft, which needed one link removed for the smaller dia. sprocket. Also, this sprocket is straight cut so I touched up the tips of the teeth with the file as I was getting some rub inside the chain.
I started off with the original 44T driven and was impressed with the crispness of the take-off. I could FEEL the MOMENT the clutch grabbed the bell and the bike actually JUMPED forward. NO, no wheelies, lol, but a definite PUSH off the line. I could feel it in the seat as the clutch engaged. Top speed came down only slightly, from high speed of 28MPH on flat to 26MPH. That was kind of expected. I did NOT notice ANY difference in RPM (Subaru/Robin 33.5) though from the 12/44 to the 10/44.
Next up was the 56T driven swap for the 44T. 1st problem there was the mounting (rag) holes were off and I had to re-drill 9 new ones to match my existing mount. I don't know if that is normal with these different size sprockets or not. Simple enough fix though. The rest of the mount was typical. I cut a new, longer hunk of #41 chain and was ready for a test run.
Immediately, I was getting a rythemic popping sound from the chain as the wheel went around. The chain was wanting to rise off the ring and then settle again! Strange. Turns out the teeth on the sprocket looked more like a saw blade with some teeth SET. A few were bent inward; others were bent outward. Sub-par quality here. As a minor note, the chrome was OK on one side and lacking and scratched to heck on the other. Definitely not a quality piece of work. Straightened the bent teeth with pliers which was almost too easy. All back together and time for the test ride; again.
Off the line was only marginally better than with the 44T. Still no wheelies. High speed fell to an unacceptable 20MPH. Still no RPM change but hill climbing was slightly (only very slightly) better than with the 44T although the 44 did very well in my opinion. On my local hills the bike climbs good and accelerates as it goes. Good in my book!
I was in hopes of getting the engine RPM to go up and therefore maybe a little bit better performance and less stress on the CVT, but it wasn't to be. I guess between the small 4 stroke, the tank it's mounted to, and my 200lb. self, ya can only do so much.
Overall, I was happiest with the 10/44 combo which kept my top speed and added low end AND climb so I put the 44 back on. I was really hoping to get a solid 30MPH going for those times when you need a little extra, but I never had it before so I won't miss it. I'm satisfied with what I've got and although I was not really too fond of the chain drive, it feels more solid and reliable now. I guess only time will tell. Still no wear on the CVT belt with about 200 miles so I guess the RPMs are agreeing with it.
I will probably order another 10T from Dax just to carry with me as a spare along with some extra shaft clips.
Hope this helps others looking into these pocket bike CVTs.
WC
 
This is some great info for all of us messing with these CVT's (or planning to) - good to get a baseline figure on what works well and what doesn't.

I'm looking to run one of these CVT's to the gear side (using a stripped down 7 speed cluster - now a 6 speed) on an 8 speed hub - gives a LOT of clearance for the sprocket, and also allows the chainline to be very short - avoiding problems with tensioning.
 
Nuttsy: It is good to get some feedback. I have a few questions to clarify your setup though.
  1. is this the CVT install on the Western Flyer cruiser?
  2. If not (all the following questions)...Which version of CVT is this?
  3. If it's one of the pocket bike CVTs, where did you find it?
  4. If it's a pocket bike CVT, what is the gear ratio of the gearbox on the output?
  5. Are you using a jackshaft, or is it direct from the output of the CVT to the rear sprocket?
  6. No freewheel, correct?
 
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Loquin,

Yes, it is on my Cruiser which is a TRUCK! (as in heavy)
But I'll address the other Q's anyway as others may want to know.

Q# 2-3 -- It is the CVT for the X2 Ninjas
http://www.fancyscooters.com/item00478-scooter-part-ninjia-cvt-transmission.html Keep an eye on Fancy as sometimes they have sales on Ebay and you can save $10-20!

Q #4 -- I have HEARD/READ that the ratio changes from 6.5 down to 2.5. Don't know for certain but hand turning this thing it does 7:1 for low. And using the ratio calculator from JSitton coupled with my actual speeds, I'd say it goes to ABOUT 3:1...maybe less.

Q #5 -- No jackshaft; direct to the 44T rear sprocket. Probably enough drag on this box without adding another layer of gears. If one day this CVT goes fubar, I may disect it and remove the gears completely and try and fashion a direct output shaft off the final pulley.

Q #6 -- No Freewheel YET...That's my next expenditure. Coming in the next couple of weeks if I can find the hub dimensions for the bicycle-engines.com kit. They don't seem to know how to measure either so I'll have to get it, measure, and then look for spokes to lace a wheel with. Would have liked to have done this part in the original build but I didn't know if I would like the end result and I was trying to keep the expense down at the time.

This weekend I'm going to be adding a Tach. from Northern Tool so I'll be able to report back on ACTUAL RPMs. However, I have no doubt that this CVT will do much better with a decent 2 stroke or even the Honda or HS 4 stroke 2HP motor. Hmmmm, future upgrade?
I like the Robin engine for reliability and simplicity of maintenance, but its power IS limited.
WC
 
Epic Fail!

Well a couple of weeks and about 200 or so miles and the DAX 10T gear is toast. It was actually STILL pushing the bike along in that condition. I didn't notice any alignment problems but note the center where it mounts to the shaft. A whole bunch of stress happened here that the cheap metal wasn't made for. Makes me wonder what it does on the TITAN gearbox!?
It pays to do 'pre-flight' inspections. That can NEVER be stressed enough. Found this before I left on a small trip.
Am running the 12T again until I can find a QUALITY hardend 10T that fits the CVT shaft.
Anyone that's got a line on a 10T HARDENED sprocket that fits the pocket bike CVT or Titan gearbox...OR a 10T with 1/2" (12mm) center bore that can be bored out, give me a shout.
WC
 

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Ouch. Didn't the ease of filing it initially give you a clue?

Buy another one, file it to fit, heat it cherry red with a blowtorch and quench in used engine oil. Easy. Thats if its steel...
 
Ouch. Didn't the ease of filing it initially give you a clue?

Buy another one, file it to fit, heat it cherry red with a blowtorch and quench in used engine oil. Easy. Thats if its steel...

Yeah, I knew it was really soft metal (of some sort, lol) but figured if it was meant for chain drive...
I never expected total meltdown!. I was gonna buy another just to have. But since I'm running the 12T again, I'm gonna 1st try the 56T wheel sprocket. It's close to the same ratio and I have it here, now!
However, it's SOOOOO much easier to change drive sprockets on this tank than the driven sprocket.
And, BTW, Ace Hardware (if you have such near you) sells the 1/2" external circlips for the output shaft for 30 cents US each. Not $2-$5 like some sites!
WC
 
It wouldn't be too hard to step up to the 8mm chain on your bike. If you changed to a flip-flop hub (are they reverse threaded on the left side?) you could use a reverse freewheel sprocket mount like what they have here : http://electricscooterparts.com/sprockets.html

(the two different freewheels are at the bottom of the page)

It accepts the standard 4-hole pocket bike sprockets like what you can find here: http://tncscooters.com/partsdb.php?class_type=Wheel Parts

I've seen as low as an 11 tooth pinion sprocket (which is what I run) and as large as an 84 tooth sprocket for the freewheel using the 8mm chain. That gives you some serious gear reduction options. The 8mm chain is really strong, and the sprockets should last a long time too.

The best advantage of a hub-mounted sprocket is that it is always centered and doesn't wobble. I've got a pretty long chain on my bike and I haven't had any problems with it.
 
Unfortunatly flip-flop hubs are not reverse threaded - BMX ones are 30X1 and ISO (35mm or so) but both RH threads (clockwise to tighten).

A true track flipflop hub has two RH threads, but a stepped lockring that is LH threaded.

That parts site is a goldmine - wish we had stuff like this in Aus...
 
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Staton-inc sells a hub with the left side of the hub having left-hand threads. It doesn't say if the left side threads are the standard 1-3/8" that normal freewheels use though. Here are the details: http://www.staton-inc.com/Details.asp?ProductID=2769

If it is then all of your problems are solved for $119.:eek:

Of course, then you'd have to buy the freewheel, sprockets and chain to make it work.:whistle:
 
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