do I want to start with a bike? motor?

Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by Stuart, Mar 5, 2008.

  1. Stuart

    Stuart New Member

    OK, now that I've officially introduced myself, lets move on the the "project"

    I took a trip by the bicycle store today and was checking out what they had in stock, and came across this one in the pictures, I like red, so that caught my attention, and I liked the idea of that "tank" even if it is fake, on the upper frame.

    the bike is a 3 speed cruiser, and it's got a twist grip shifter on it, I don';t know if that would interfere with the twist grip throttle's that the motors come with or not, for now I was looking at the 2 stroke engines that you can get off ebay, but not sure yet if I want to go that route or not.

    also, that tank on the bike, I'm wondering if I can drill into it and thread it to mount a gas cap, and also drill a hole in the bottom and thread that for a fitting and fuel line.

    what ideas have you people got, and what's your ideas on this bike, I like it, but would it work?

    I like the fat frame, and fat tires

    Stuart
     

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  2. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    the gripshift should be fine, I have 1 on my schwinn Jaguar
    you might have to slide it a little up the bar, that's all
    also, it looks like the tank is sealed all the way around, that'll help if you go that route

    btw...nice looking bike !:D
     
  3. ocscully

    ocscully Member

    Try this link to a thread on using the frame of the bike as the fuel tank. http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=5510 Things you need to ba aware of are various vent holes in the head tube and possibly the top tube. Also you might want to do a search on 3-speed hub compatiably with the motored drive train. It seems to me that several members have had trouble with the 3-speed hubs not handling the extra torque of the motored drivetrain.

    Here is a link to a Felt bike project by a member of this forum. http://www.oroville-eternal-riders.org/motorbike.htm

    ocscully
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2008
  4. graucho

    graucho Active Member

    A while back I did a fat tire install and the chain clearance to the tire was very close to rubbing. I was able to offset this by very slight adjustment in engine positioning, and chain tensioner positioning. I didnt have to do any special sproket spacing Etc. etc... But just thought you should keep a "heads up" for your future plans if the tire is extra thick.

    This bike is just beautiful. Enjoy.
     
  5. JemmaUK

    JemmaUK Guest

    I can see one potential complication with that bike straight away and thats the rear coaster brake - this can cause royal b*ggerations when the rear wheel has to be removed especially with GEBE type setups...

    That said its the same frame and configuration as the bike I have and mine rides wonderfully - I have a front open springer fitted as standard to mine and that makes for a very smooth ride (specially now I have the damping adjusted properly)...

    And 'should I?' is probably not the right question to ask in here - the answer will invariably be something along the lines of 'yes, and heres how you fit this and that - and have you tried...."

    good luck with whatever you decide and welcome to the forum

    Jemma xx
     
  6. Scottm

    Scottm Guest

    I also have a Jaguar and agree with Az. For some reason the chain was just barely rubbing the rear tire so the kind floks here suggested I reversed(turned it around) the sprocket on the rear wheel. It gave me the clearance I needed. Hope that helps. The front mount looks like it may have to be a little extended. Buthere's plenty of info here on help with that too.
    It is a beautiful bike. Browse through the picture gallery and see some bikes with the tanks tunrned into fuel tanks. Iride, if I'm not mistaken, has done that or made his own and Uncle Punk is in the process.
    Good luck and have fun.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 6, 2008
  7. loquin

    loquin Active Member

    It IS a nice looker. I would add a front drum brake, though, as it's more in keeping with the overall classic look than are rim brakes. Plus, it works better in inclement weather...

    Now, as far as the tank. I would drill the first hole in the bottom, for the hose fitting. Then, see if you could pressurize it to 10-15 psi. If it seems to hold air, there's a good chance that you can make it work. (Spray soapy water over all the welds if the first check seems OK.)

    From a structural viewpoint, I would doubt that there would be any holes in the top tube or the down tube. There may be a vent hole leading into the head tube, but, this would be relatively easy to plug. And, if there are leaky welds all over the place, a small hole in the bottom would be easier to patch.
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2008
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