66cc-outlaw
New Member
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Driving my Friction Drive CYR460 while filming myself doing it on a bridge over water
- Thread starter 66cc-outlaw
- Start date
5-7HEAVEN
Well-Known Member
Glad to see you like 460/friction drive.
How is the 460 on steep hills?
I had 460 engines on friction drive, before I converted to chain-driven shift kit.
How is the 460 on steep hills?
I had 460 engines on friction drive, before I converted to chain-driven shift kit.
66cc-outlaw
New Member
not just like...love
This is the first one I ever drove and it was a friends and I absolutely loved to ride it. I bought one chain drive with a Grubee Skyhawk 66cc engine a few days later for myself. Very disappointed in it it was a
. Always very hard to start, parts kept breaking frequently, when out of gas having to hold down the clutch to pedal is a huge pain.
I eventually bought the friction drive bike from my friend and only ever needed to replace the carburetor and she had it running for over a year no problem other than a flat tire. So I've been driving it daily now to work and home for 3 or so months and it's the best thing I ever bought with an engine on it. It goes very easily up that bridge in the video, it's the only bridge I drive over to to and from work. It does tend to eat up tires if not driven properly, like pedal start instead of trying to take off right away and not reving it up real high once your going. I learned about that from this forum looking for the best replacement for my tire since I am not on my third back tire.
So yeah overall its easiest to maintain and work on and also very easy to drive and pedal when out of gas. I give it 5 out of 5 stars.
This is the first one I ever drove and it was a friends and I absolutely loved to ride it. I bought one chain drive with a Grubee Skyhawk 66cc engine a few days later for myself. Very disappointed in it it was a
. Always very hard to start, parts kept breaking frequently, when out of gas having to hold down the clutch to pedal is a huge pain. I eventually bought the friction drive bike from my friend and only ever needed to replace the carburetor and she had it running for over a year no problem other than a flat tire. So I've been driving it daily now to work and home for 3 or so months and it's the best thing I ever bought with an engine on it. It goes very easily up that bridge in the video, it's the only bridge I drive over to to and from work. It does tend to eat up tires if not driven properly, like pedal start instead of trying to take off right away and not reving it up real high once your going. I learned about that from this forum looking for the best replacement for my tire since I am not on my third back tire.
So yeah overall its easiest to maintain and work on and also very easy to drive and pedal when out of gas. I give it 5 out of 5 stars.
5-7HEAVEN
Well-Known Member
I'm glad you love your bike.
If you were ever to convert to shift kit, you would love love love your bike with this engine.
Any broken clutch springs?
If you were ever to convert to shift kit, you would love love love your bike with this engine.
Any broken clutch springs?
66cc-outlaw
New Member
I don't know if I had any broken clutch springs. I don't have the chain drive one anymore, since I have sold it.
5-7HEAVEN
Well-Known Member
You'll know when a clutch spring breaks.
The spring breaks off, then wedges between shoe and clutch drum. You now have direct drive, no clutch.
You can still make it home. Just ride slow and make as few stops as necessary.
When you stop, the engine dies. You could prolly pedalstart the engine. In my case, I put the bike stand down, making sure the rear tire was off the ground.
After pullstarting the engine, I raised the bike stand, got the bike rolling, THEN jumped on the bike.
I kept doing this every time the engine stopped. You COULD jump off the bike before coming to a complete stop at a traffic light.
Lift the back tire off the ground with engine (and back tire) running. Then roll the bike and hop on.
It'll get you home with this method, because 460 engines are prone to breaking clutch springs, no matter which ones you have.
When I find clutch springs that lasts thousands of miles (like my Tanaka engine), I'll take my 460 off the shelf and put it back on my bike.
The spring breaks off, then wedges between shoe and clutch drum. You now have direct drive, no clutch.
You can still make it home. Just ride slow and make as few stops as necessary.
When you stop, the engine dies. You could prolly pedalstart the engine. In my case, I put the bike stand down, making sure the rear tire was off the ground.
After pullstarting the engine, I raised the bike stand, got the bike rolling, THEN jumped on the bike.
I kept doing this every time the engine stopped. You COULD jump off the bike before coming to a complete stop at a traffic light.
Lift the back tire off the ground with engine (and back tire) running. Then roll the bike and hop on.
It'll get you home with this method, because 460 engines are prone to breaking clutch springs, no matter which ones you have.
When I find clutch springs that lasts thousands of miles (like my Tanaka engine), I'll take my 460 off the shelf and put it back on my bike.
rawly old
Active Member
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FYI, a bit of preventive maintenance, The hole the springs attach
to are usually drilled straight thru. Thus the curve of the spring is
being pulled against 2 square corners that bite into the spring. If
you use a dremel or a very small round file, you can round off those
edges so that the hole matches the curve of the spring end. This
distributes the stress throughout the curve instead of striking 2
sharp edges. Now you only worry about the clutch shoes wearing
out.
to are usually drilled straight thru. Thus the curve of the spring is
being pulled against 2 square corners that bite into the spring. If
you use a dremel or a very small round file, you can round off those
edges so that the hole matches the curve of the spring end. This
distributes the stress throughout the curve instead of striking 2
sharp edges. Now you only worry about the clutch shoes wearing
out.
