easy captive nuts

Discussion in 'Painting, Welding, Bending and Gas Tanks' started by butre, Oct 5, 2014.

  1. butre

    butre Well-Known Member


    this was just done as an experiment with a $10 butane torch and a bit of 60/40 electronics solder I had lying around. I wouldn't want to put a whole lot of weight on it but it seems to hold well enough for light duty applications. another solder would probably be sturdier, and roughing up the nut so the solder has more surface area to grab to would be a good idea as well. if you don't have access to welding equipment or all you've got is a big nasty oxy rig this can be a great alternative to drilling holes in your bike or can be used to avoid having to use 2 wrenches to undo a bolt

    I put a 2 inch bolt in it and wasn't able to break it off by hand with that, it took a fairly hefty whack with a hammer to break it loose.

  2. RumblingV8

    RumblingV8 Member

    As someone who deals with captive nuts on a daily basis (go kart mechanic), i enjoy the idea of solder... any captive nut applications at my work that strip out have to be cut off and they're usually a PITA to get at with a cutoff wheel (french made karts and everything is inaccessible...), to the point where instead of welding nuts back in we usually use speed nuts even where they aren't necessarily intended but work anyway. I may try this out, though I'd be curious to know how it would withstand vibrations over a period of time?
  3. machiasmort

    machiasmort Active Member

    Solder wasn't really ever intended for use on steel. The key to getting it to stick is the flux!!! It's all in cleaning the steel and then experimenting w/ different fluxes! Lead will even work. See if you can find the old car-body repair lead flux!!!
  4. butre

    butre Well-Known Member

    depending on the sort of solder you use you should be fine. lead doesn't tend to work harden easily, so it should work.