Electrify a Cranbrick?

Discussion in 'Electric Bicycles' started by Sgt. Howard, Oct 23, 2010.

  1. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    Just a thought- I've got a HT in my Huffy Cranbrick and have been lusting after a BTR configuration based on a Worksman- I would happily pull the HT for that purpose... leaving me with a reasonably stock Cranbrick. Looking at speed/range/load configurations and trying to understand all the electrick geekspeak (no offence intended, I am truly that ignorant on the matter. I am a gunsmith/blacksmith/machinist/woodwright, not a sparkmeister), I have come to the conclusion that the front hub package might be the best deal for me. I am more concerned about range over speed and it would seem that the Cranbrick would more likely survive the slower speed of an electric motor- plus, I can park it inside at work as I am not dealing with gasoline.
    Can anybody show me the flaw(s) in my thinking?
     

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  2. ibdennyak

    ibdennyak Guest

    Not really. Couple things to keep in mind......batteries......you have to choose between heavy and expensive. Also, you may want too beef up your front dropouts. On mine, the axle spun out the slots eventually. Other than that, it was a dependable and quiet ride. You don't have to get involved in the electronics too much unless you want to. Most vendors will sell you what you what you want if you describe your needs.
     
  3. Sgt. Howard

    Sgt. Howard Member

    Electric Cranbrick

    Front dropouts? What exactly are these and how do I beef them up? The motor/battery/harness/charger package I am looking at involves three SLA batteries, so it looks like I'm dealing with weight untill I can save up the sheckles for the Lithium variety. I also just acquired an early '60's Steyr three-speed with the AUSTRIAN hub, not English- I am told the English ones are better- and that will be polished up for the Mrs. without a motor, and also a decent men's 10 speed for myself that will also go motorless. I am thinking of a small fleet with the electric as an experiment in reliable travel, a powered bike for everybody in the family as well as a non-powered one- see where it goes from there. This powered bike thing has opened a whole new world for me and I am having WAY too much fun!
    the Old Sgt.
     
  4. ibdennyak

    ibdennyak Guest

    Those would be the slots where your hub bolts to the fork. Remember, as your wheel pulls your bike, the axle is trying to turn backwards with the same force. You DO want a steel fork. You could have them thickened by welding a slotted piece of steel to the fork, or......being lazy, I got a pair of 3/8 (or 10 mm) wrenches and hose clamped them to the fork to keep the flats on the axle from turning. Not that big of a deal as long as you do it BEFORE the axle screwws itself out of the fork. :evilgrin: Obviously a QR skewer has to go. Your Cranbrick should have a steel fork anyway, so that part is good. If you want to check, just use a magnet.
     
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