Engine Trouble Engine loss of power when hot n fourstroking alot

yeah, teflon tape works but as long as youre tightening the plug up properly, its pointless. (and run the risk of insulating it from the head which will prevent spark) heat is right, colour looks good, if a touch rich really.

remember to use the killswitch at the throttle position youre testing when checking the plug colour. pointless if you let it idle at all.


the way it idles is the best sign of air leaks...if it just revs out, even with the idle screw backed right out...theres an air leak.


does it start easily or need some persuasion?

im starting to really suspect its an ignition issue. happen to have spare CDI unit to pop on? check position of keyway in magnet, might be a bad one. its not too easy checking for ignition timing without a timing light, and the expense of even a cheap one just isnt really worth it if its a one off thing. jaguar did post a schematic for a simple timing light with an LED, might be worth searching for. then you gotta find TDC, and mark the magneto for it, but that isnt too hard to do, either. google :)

where is your cdi located? possibly getting too hot?

and exhaust. pop the exhaust off. can you blow through it easy peasy or is it feeling all restricted? there should be some resistance, but not TOO much.


this one IS a doozy! ;)

last thoughts.... the piston is oversized, cylinder is undersized... once it gets warm, they start rubbing and wham... did happen to my last skyhawk, but took a good 5-6000km to start doing it! only way to check that is to pop the head, check the bore with piston at the bottom. any scratches? remove cylinder, trying to keep bottom gasket intact. check piston for same thing, big patches where its obviously been rubbing. there wil always be some rubbing, but if its a whole section, aye...that will do it. might simply be the relief at the top of the piston, around the rings, wasnt machined in deep enough. they do expand when hot!


oh! and the chrome plating! if thats got any patches missing, same deal... it will start fine, run fine, but after a few minutes, it will die or lose power...
 
the ring at the top of threads is a gasket, if threads are not damaged, that is all you need - I'd avoid tape

bubbles could easily be from too much vibration in the carb (which can also cause a power loss)
 
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Does it matter which way the arrow points on the piston. And that's pic after plug chop. Once again it was cool morning n got hot real quick it seems to have no leaks whatsoever
 
Should I go down on slide needle or replacement adjust my float. Note I have changed to bugger and small jets with no effect
 
I always start with adjusting the needle as that's the quickest to undo if wrong.
 
four stroking is from too rich jetting so you should have had some success with smaller main jet. maybe you didn't go low enough.
arrow points toward exhaust.
bubbles in gas line are totally meaningless. the fuel is not "boiling".
get a cheap compression tester to know what your compression is. guessing just don't cut the mustard.
engine heat can change how well or how bad loose screws at the stator coil allow conduction for the ground loop of the ignition circuit. sandpaper where those screw heads contact the stator coils frame.
"gets hot quick" don't mean anything. 2 strokes do that. Get a temperature gauge for the head. JNMotors sells one.
 
Ok so I sanded it can't try right now ****ing down rain. The arrow on piston points at carb. Is that a issue?
 
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