Engine was running fine and the next second it doesn't start.

I like the keylock CDI, it's probably something I could end up doing myself, I'm pretty confident in my electrical abilities.
I should have the DIY "bag of parts" up on my web site for $19.95 and just a couple of bucks to ship it you are in the US soon.

A pretty good deal considering how expensive the box and switch are to buy one at a time, if you even can.
I had to buy 50 of each to even get them, and 100' spool of that cool wire and I can't use them all, but I'll get to that when the site is ready to take PayPal orders for it.

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KC's Kruisers Glendale Arizona, USA
 
you should just cut off those push together wire connectors and solder all of your wire connections. even tho you squeezed them together with pliers and taped them, they will still break eventually.
just get rid of them, and solder the wires. then cover the wires with heat shrink...this will save you headaches later on.
you should also check to make sure that none of your wires have bare strands sticking out of the ends, or worn insulation. one strand of bare wire touching the frame or anything metal will give you ignition problems.
 
I never thought of the bare wires, I'll check that. As for starting, I felt that if I choke it and prime it, it usually starts so I'm lost.

Here are some pictures.
Fuel Filter Installation (Is it the right way?)
DSC03538.jpg


Exhaust Leak (Lots of black liquid, assuming it's the gas+oil leak from there) Could that be causing problems?
DSC03537.jpg


Engine Mounted
DSC03536.jpg


Wiring from Coil to CDI and Kill Switch.
DSC03539.jpg
 
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The filter is installed bass ackwards. The current way will allow it to clog up alot faster as it strains the dirt and crud out.
The black goo means that you have a leak where the pipe bolts up to the cylinder.
Not a huge problem, but a real mess maker when the goo gets blown back onto the engine, bike, and you.
The wires are connected correctly, but cut off those darned stock connectors and solder each connector and seal each with heat shrink tubing. Those stock connectors are a major cause of headaches with these engines.
The white wire BTW is a low power (3 watt, 6 volt) output for powering lights, not a method of killing the spark. It can be used for killing the spark, but that is not why it is there. Connect the yellow/red wire to the black wire instead.
FWIW.I do not even use a kill button. I either pop the clutch out with the engine idling, or reach down and turn on the choke, suffocating the intake.
 
Well I used to pop the clutch out and kill it that way but I thought why not use the kill switch if I have one.

On the first start of the day, how should I start it? Should I hit the primer button on the carb, flip the switch up and start it and then put it down?

Could the fuel filter be causing the problems? I really want to know why I'm running so roughly.
 
Tomorrow, I'm going to go ahead and fix the exhaust leak. Somebody told me that the engine needs that back pressure to work well. I'm also going to go ahead and check all the wires and solder them too. The white wire I'll just electrical tape and leave tied to the frame. Would I get voltage out of the white wire right now or would I need an additional part?

I'm also thinking about buying the pull starter for the engine. It'd help in testing spark plugs and coils. Do you know how it works? Would I hold the clutch and pull start the engine?
 
You can get voltage out of the white wire right now. it is AC current though. Most can power one light, not very brightly though.
I never use the primer button. I just go full choke untill it starts, then I pull in the clutch and stop, fiddling with the throttle to keep it running. I use 1/2 choke or thereabouts, holding the throttle for a fast idle until the engine is warmed up, reducing the choke to full open position. It takes about 2 minutes.
 
I used to start it without having to use the choke but I think I might have just been lucky. I'll try to start it today with the way you said and see if it kicks in. About how many tries does it take to get the engine running in full choke for you on the first start of the day?
 
Every engine likes a different approach, you will have to experiment with yours to see what it likes. I can start mine within 50 feet of letting the clutch out while pedaling at a good speed. Sometimes it fires up immediately, and other times it is moody for the first 40 feet.
 
Thanks and last question GearNut, is my engine the china one? I posted a picture of it.
 
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