Er, a little help

Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by milegajo, Jun 24, 2008.

  1. milegajo

    milegajo Member

    Attached is a pic of the current status of my 4 stroke dream. It looks pretty sad now but im still hoping.... Basically heres the list of issues for anyone who purchases this kit to have in mind
    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300202384927&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:UK:11

    Ensure you leave enough room in the frame and QUADRUPLE check the donor. I didn't and look how snug it is! (had to clip the choke with pliers!)

    Rebuilding the rear wheel with the "special axel kit" has been a no go with no shop in the UK wanting to go near it as the machined spoke holes are too wide (indicating need for thicker gauge spokes/washers) Decided to buy a wheel from this vendor (knocked him down from £70 to £50 inc shipping) Still not arrived as it was returned to the factory.

    Until the wheel either arrives or i find someone who'll build one and not charge £130! i wont bother with the wide cranks, which by the way wont accomodate for 21 gears, instead you'll have to do with seven. Oh and the threads are too thin for my pedals....

    Mounting the engine has been a problem due to snugness as the compression of the mounting plate means there are no forward bolt holes, so i'm going to plead with my local garage to get it welded (would prefer that anyway to the cheap bolts...)

    Aside from these factors, the engine is great, starts with barely a quarter pull and runs sweet as a nut, cant wait to eventually get some miles under me belt.....

    any pointers from any of you veterans would be GREATLY appreciated....
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 18, 2015

  2. Irish John

    Irish John Guest

    That's China alright

    Sorry to hear about your troubles Milegajo, It's the little things about that kit that are so infuriating. Like the spoke holes in the hub you mention being too large - presumably they are supposed to take 12g spokes and those shouldn't be too hard to get but if the holes are too big then what can you do. They should have supplied a packet of spokes. It would be no harder for them to supply a freewheel drive sprocket instead of a freewheel hub so you aren't faced with the labour costs of a total wheel rebuild but that's China for you. Like the HTs the cheap kits work out very expensive compared to a Grubee kit over a very short time. The Grubee allows you to have an optional freewheel drive sprocket but that kit of yours has a different engine shaft peculiar to itself so you are stuck forever with the Hoot gearbox and a fixed drive sprocket. The exhaust has a really nasty alignment and it looks ugly on every bike I've seen it on.
    Anyway lets see if I can help you - that engine mounting tray is your main problem it seems. Now, I have only seen that kit come with a single piece steel tray and not the 3 piece adjustable tray. Yours looks like a 3 piece which is strange. The one piece would allow you to drill the mounting holes further forward which is where your engine looks like it needs to be in fact they come with the holes drilled where you want them. Getting it welded like you say might be very difficult cos the motor is alloy and the tray is steel. Have you thought of trying to get a single piece mounting tray? Have you tried turning the mounting tray around back to front? I wonder if that would allow you to get the engine further away from the seat post and forward more?
    It is very important to get the engine and rear sprocket lined up as carefully as you can and you might need some axle spacers to achieve the best alignment. You also need a fuel filter in your fuel line and they are about $2.50 at a hardware store.
    I don't know if your pedals will turn without a wide crank but forget 24 gears cos you don't need them. The rear gears will be adequate. None of the frame mounted 4 strokes can have a front derailleur. If you can get hold of a second hand cruiser frame it would probably be a lot better but if not I think you should think seriously about a more comfortable saddle and high rise handlebars so your riding position doesn't crane your neck. Your cables all look long enough to reach to high rise bars. Incidentally is your frame a 19" 20" or 21"? The bigger the better but you have done well to fit it in so far. Smoother tyres wold be a better ride and help with speed and fuel economy.
    The labour cost for a wheel rebuild from the bare hub is about 20 quid your money at my local bike shop but that doesn't include spokes - just labour. Make sure you have a double walled rim if you rebuild the wheel.
    I'm sorry to hear about your kit and I am glad I got the Grubee although it's mounting tray isn't that good either. Good luck and I hope you can give that exhaust a curve so it doesn't stick out like balls on a smooth haired dog.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 18, 2015
  3. MasterLink

    MasterLink Member

    hey man i talked to the guy from ebay seemed kinds strange good hes working with you i have that mount 3 piece your frame is not goint to work out well you need to start over with a cruiser type frame ...the motor is to high... and my thoughts noting is goin to line up well i would also get the other gear box ( Grubee ) and a rear sprocket with the rag washers so for about $140 usd (70 quid) you are set for any kinda 36 spoke set up and a lot more cruiser type frames
     
  4. milegajo

    milegajo Member

    Thank for the Help

    Thanks for the pointers, gunna do my best to act on them, will post more pics when tried, i think i better get a new donor to start with.
     
  5. MasterLink

    MasterLink Member


    yea kinda a drag but the good news is that the second time around will go easier and faster ..but take your time when it comes to levering and mounting the motor and get some loctight and some case harden steel for the bolts they should be black with atleast 3 lines on the bolt heads more lines the better and you will strip the easy so becarefull if i will do it again i would just use healie coiles again and the tighting them up that the wrench dont move anymore my motor had to go all the way to the left to line up and the sprocket teeth closest to the spokes if you go with the way i was saying in the above post
     
  6. milegajo

    milegajo Member

  7. milegajo

    milegajo Member

    Finished!!!

    Hey guys thanks to your advice its done (apart from the cranks but i dont wanna pedal) check out pics
     

    Attached Files:

  8. MasterLink

    MasterLink Member

    looking good so far ..i think you can find some smaller cranks so they dont hit the tray ..it looks like you need to take a link out or so ...ohh the Masterlink gos in the inside face the clip closest to the spokes
     
  9. milegajo

    milegajo Member

    Right oh, will get onto that. thanks again
     
  10. MasterLink

    MasterLink Member

    i happy you got it goin and no worries

    keep the shiny side up
     
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