U
U
uncle_punk13
Guest
Sorry for that, I was a little miffed and therefore blowing off a little steam, before I built a smelter and decided to cast aluminum ingots ...LOL!!! I've not had good Whizzer JuJu lately... No offense was meant by that post. 
If I might be so bold as to speak plainly, and again this is merely one man's opinion, and no offense is intended- I would like to see Whizzer go back to the original WC-1 formula as far as the mathematics in the design of the engines- I.E. numerical matched parts- Carb, cam, lifters, valves; match hardened cam and lifters, and go back to the configuration of the WC-1 cylinder, but in cast iron.
Also, as a machinist who works within tolerances of .010" (and/or less across three planes), I wish they could go Slap the Silly out of whoever is doing the machining work; I will comment no further on that aspect... Again, this is not intended to insult, or offend anyone, or the company.
If I might be so bold as to speak plainly, and again this is merely one man's opinion, and no offense is intended- I would like to see Whizzer go back to the original WC-1 formula as far as the mathematics in the design of the engines- I.E. numerical matched parts- Carb, cam, lifters, valves; match hardened cam and lifters, and go back to the configuration of the WC-1 cylinder, but in cast iron.
Also, as a machinist who works within tolerances of .010" (and/or less across three planes), I wish they could go Slap the Silly out of whoever is doing the machining work; I will comment no further on that aspect... Again, this is not intended to insult, or offend anyone, or the company.
W
wavygravy
Guest
venting is good for the soul!
Hi Rif,
Looks like a cast iron cylinder on the motor in your picture. Best way to make it work is to copy the original "300" cylinder and simply space the valves to match the new generation motors and move a few bolt holes. The original cast iron "300" cylinder had 7/8" valves and 5/16" headbolts, and simply worked correctly.
Have fun,
Looks like a cast iron cylinder on the motor in your picture. Best way to make it work is to copy the original "300" cylinder and simply space the valves to match the new generation motors and move a few bolt holes. The original cast iron "300" cylinder had 7/8" valves and 5/16" headbolts, and simply worked correctly.
Have fun,
U
uncle_punk13
Guest
Success!!!!
Well this last experiment worked! The engine runs well, it sounds good, and it rides well on the bike!!! Finally... There are a number of whizzer folks out there who build the engines, each has his own 'formula'. I found mine- it may not be the fastest, but it should be reliable and have the longevity I would desire for travel.. Time will tell.
Well this last experiment worked! The engine runs well, it sounds good, and it rides well on the bike!!! Finally... There are a number of whizzer folks out there who build the engines, each has his own 'formula'. I found mine- it may not be the fastest, but it should be reliable and have the longevity I would desire for travel.. Time will tell.
azbill
Active Member
Like Hannibal (George Peppard) used to say...
'I love it when a plan comes together'
right on Rif
'I love it when a plan comes together'
right on Rif
RdKryton
Active Member
What formula did you come up with? Looks to me like a WC-1 case, cam, and probably WC-1 lifters and head with a cast iron cylinder. That to me sounds like a very good combination. I would like a motor like that myself.
Jim
Jim
RdKryton
Active Member
Hey Rif
Is that a Woodstock Whizzer cast iron cylinder? The aluminum cylinder with poor valve seats was the major weak spot in the WC-1. The rest of the engine was pretty solid. When I upgraded my WC-1, everything inside the case was in very good condition. That reminds me, are you still looking for WC-1 parts? I have a head cam and lifters that are in very good condition if your still interested. Sorry but I'm using the case and crank.
Jim
Is that a Woodstock Whizzer cast iron cylinder? The aluminum cylinder with poor valve seats was the major weak spot in the WC-1. The rest of the engine was pretty solid. When I upgraded my WC-1, everything inside the case was in very good condition. That reminds me, are you still looking for WC-1 parts? I have a head cam and lifters that are in very good condition if your still interested. Sorry but I'm using the case and crank.
Jim
Just a word of caution........ If you are using the WC-1 head with the 14 MM spark plug, often the cast iron cylinder increases the operating temp and cracks the head. The head crackes between the spark plug hole and the head bolt hole. The best solution is to replace with the later WC-1 head with the 10 MM spark plug hole.
Have fun,
Have fun,
U
uncle_punk13
Guest
i went back to the wc-1 formula with a woodstock cast iron cylinder, and copper head gasket. I hand lapped the valves to ensure proper seating, and made sure of all clearances, and today will advance the cam one tooth.
I appreciate the offer for parts, but my financial situation has changed since that post, and as such I must now put a hold on "extras" until I can find work again, or my old shop calls me back. Thank you for the offer though, I do appreciate it.
Quenton: Thanks for the tip! I am using a 2003 head, dunno which that is, but will check it today...
I appreciate the offer for parts, but my financial situation has changed since that post, and as such I must now put a hold on "extras" until I can find work again, or my old shop calls me back. Thank you for the offer though, I do appreciate it.
Quenton: Thanks for the tip! I am using a 2003 head, dunno which that is, but will check it today...
Last edited by a moderator:
