Experimental DIY Friction setup

T

Tinker1980

Guest
Boredom and spare engines are the blame for this. I found, around springtime, three vertical shaft engines - one is a tecumseh (with an electric starter!!) and refuses to run right, the other two are B&S engines, both did run after some carb cleaning, but one was missing parts from it's recoil starter, so it became spare parts. This left me with an older style Briggs engine with the ball-bearing style recoil starter. I removed the crankcase cover (The entire bottom of the crankcase) from my vertical engine, and the crankcase cover from a horizontal B&S engine I had. Also removed shrouds, to see the flywheels better. I learned some things:

1.) The only difference, internally, is the dipper on the con-rod of the horizontal engine. The vertical engine uses a gear driven spinning device. One can put the dipper on the con-rod of the vertical engine, and it will work.

2.) At least with the engines I had in front of me, the flywheels were the same weight. I removed both of them, and they weighed the same amount, so I know the vertical engine will idle without a blade on it.

Why use a vertical shaft engine at all, if I have a horizontal one to compare it to? Mounting. I wanted to try a friction drive rack mount setup. A horizontal engine has it's mounts on the bottom, , so you'd have to build some kind of L-Shaped setup off the side of your rack mount. (Or use a HF 2.5 engine, which has mounts on the bottom AND the side)

The lawnmower engine has a three bolt pattern on it, and I intend to make a t-shaped part that will reach all three bolts, but miss the crank itself.

I can't use commonly available rollers for my design, since a 1.5" roller at 3600 rpm gives me a speed of around 16 MPH. I got lucky in that respect, my brother brought me a piece of scrap from where he works. It's the very end of a piece of 7000 aluminum round bar that is 2.75" diameter, about 2.5" thick. I wanted a roller that was 2.25"-2.5" diameter, but for free I won't complain. It goes to the machine shop for a .875 hole soon.

Thoughts on this setup? I have pictures but nothing has been assembled yet. The part you see on the bicycle will have angle mounted to it for the motor mounts.

-Mark
 

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Issues I see-
you will be putting a side load on the wheel but the main stregnth in the wheel is vertical.
There will always be some scuffing of the roller drive, since the width of the roller will engage different diameters on the tire.

Engines with the heavy flywheel will operate fine without the blade attached.

If you use a jackshaft, you can center the engine properly - use a 90 degree twisted belt and convert the drive to horizontal.
 
Lol I wasn't clear, I guess. The vertical shaft engine has been modified to run On It's Side. I've run two tanks of gas through it on a test stand, with the shaft horizontal. I won't need a twisted belt.

-Mark
 
I'm watching this one... i dig the home-brew bikes!!

Do you plan on a way to disengage the roller from the wheel?

wondering how fast an aluminum drive roller will wear down. The hardened steel rollers do wear down over time.

keep us posted on your progress.
 
It looks like there will be a change of engines. The wife asked me exactly how big the HF engine is, (she is helping quite a bit with this project) not the displacement but how large, outside. I had been thinking it was close to the size of a 3.5 HP engine like the one I had ready to use, but I really didn't know. So we went across Tulsa to the harbor freight and actually *looked* at one, and it's so much smaller than I thought. I will use that engine instead, especially since it has mounts on the side and bottom. It will be easier to add a larger fuel tank too, since the carb isn't part of the tank.

For the roller, after I have the hole in it, I will try coating the outside with a mixture of epoxy and sandblaster sand. No idea how this will hold up, but it may get me more traction.

-Mark
 
Maybe you could sleeve it with a short chunk of pipe. If you size the aluminum so that it is just a few thousandths too big to go inside the pipe, you could put it in the freezer and make it fit. (Aluminum has a much greater thermal expansion coefficient, so it would shrink more when cold) And/Or, drill a couple of holes through the pipe into the Aluminum, then thread them & use screws to lock things down.
 
You might like to check out a vedio that was on MySpace called Motorized Bike Walkthrough Video by Vernon. It showed a vert. engine mount that looked good and easy.
 
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ok, i'm the culprit here...i posted an idea i had in another friction topic, not aware of this one, & Tinker1980 showed me this link to the walkthrough video...now it's where it belongs:
Not too crazy an idea. It's been done. Have a look. I'm nearly done building such a creation myself, I'll post pictures when it's done IF I can avoid getting flak about a couple of amatuer-ish welds :rolleyes:

-Mark
i haven't let him off the hook about his welds, but i still want to see pics...only kidding, mark...my welds are solid enuff, but pretty is for flowers :giggle:
 
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Man 3.5 HP !!!!

That ought to burn your tire up real quick !!!!
But will be interesting ..... " MORE POWER " !!!!!!
 
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