extra long offset intake, runs really rich/4 strokes at wot

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by jatgm1, Jul 29, 2016.

  1. jatgm1

    jatgm1 Member

    i have a size 60 jet on my dellorto sha carb, and it still feels like it runs rich, and if i pull the throttle all the way it 4 strokes, so i have to hold it like 1/3 the way to make it work go fast enough. i wrapped copper wire from the cylinder head around the offset intake to help with low temperature, caused by vacuum. (intake was getting really cold and frosting)
     

  2. Did you get my reply?
     
  3. Replace the spark plug wire it on screws right out of the CDI.
    Get a small piece of copper wire insulated copper wire the same size as the hole the diameter of the CDI.
    Get a regular spark plug wire a short one and Automotive spark plug wire shrimp the copper wire it's only going to be about a half inch long maybe about an inch long.
    Strip just enough left so you can print it on to the new spark plug wire at the end that goes into the CDI, you may even want to solder her that part.
    Been inside the whole of the site you will see a small silver screw like piece of metal screw the new spark plug wire into the CDI box, and you will no longer have to take the Caps off of your spark plug. I use a nice E3
    .22 Spark plug. You can get a plug wire for about 5 bucks in the wire you come to the end of this the one-inch piece is almost like a battery cable but then it got to be very rugged but the same diameter of the hole of the CDs and the insulated end goes into the CDI box. good luck buddy
     
  4. jaguar

    jaguar Well-Known Member

  5. jatgm1

    jatgm1 Member

    haHA, now i see the issue.
     
  6. jaguar

    jaguar Well-Known Member

    try a 64 or 65
     
  7. jatgm1

    jatgm1 Member

    ok just installed a 75 and now it runs like complete sh*t. doesnt speed up at all. and it sounds like a train or some steam engine how it putts along. im going to add pictures of my setup.
     
  8. jatgm1

    jatgm1 Member

    what would happen if the woodruff key was bent slightly and the timing was off? could this happen?it kinda works until you get going then it starts putting?
     

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  9. jatgm1

    jatgm1 Member

    the copper is to try to heat the pipe, condensation comes off it sometimes.
     
  10. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    condensation is normal, its a byproduct of vaporising fuel.(turning a liquid to gas takes energy) nothing to worry about unless you run in sub-zero temperatures... ie, an aeroplane?

    simple test on rich/lean.

    hit the choke, if it runs better with some choke...its too lean. if it gets worse, its too rich.

    if it DIES or "bogs" with full throttle...too lean.

    if it stumbles, burbles, wont rev, smokes, drips oil...too rich.

    run a ngk b(r)5hs. give it a good run at full throttle, use the KILLSWITCH to stop the engine whilst holding full throttle. check the plug.

    if its black or dark brown, too rich. if its white, too lean. if its bordering on white to tan/biscuit...its just right.

    oil ratio will affect plug chops, as will having a plug thats too cold (ie a 7 or 8)

    personally, i would go about 55 on the main. most of mine have preferred 50 to 60...
     
  11. jatgm1

    jatgm1 Member

    I ordered 50 and 55, and an adjustment screw, which Fell out, anyone know how to keep them in from falling out.
     
  12. I run an NGKBR7HS & It runs great Perfect Color I'm in Chicago however it does run much better at night when it's cooler and it runs faster smoother just all around better when it's like 70 degrees and Below what's up with that?????

    Anybody got any ideas or answers information on that one?
     
  13. The NGK plugs number five and six don't run so well at all However I have found a plug that works pretty well it's E3.22. Best one so far next to the 7NGK.
     
  14. I've got to groom my dog now be back later LOL!
     
  15. jatgm1

    jatgm1 Member

    if i add a forced air intake to the carb, wont that lean it out? (bendable hose for ventalation, hose clamped to carb, then an adapter and some duct tape and soda cans and a t-shirt for an air filter.) like, if i were to add a forced air intake and use that until i got the proper jet? since im forcing air in there, i assume there would be less gas. my only concern would be how to make it idle without making it rev high or constantly moving. since my problem is only at high speed i assume this should work and just turn off at stop lights or whenever idling.
     
  16. jatgm1

    jatgm1 Member

    this is what it looks like.
     

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  17. First off, don't take any of this as insulting, mean,rude, or degrading. With that being said oh my God!!!
    First question what is all that copper colored stuff in between your motor did you use some sort of Permatex copper Gasket maker for the entire engine?
    Second of all very cool MacGyver hook up. But that's not going to work soon as you put that t-shirt on here that's going to hinder any air from coming in at a rate that would make any difference, if anything I think it would stop or hinder the airflow because too far from the intake.
    Number 3 why do you have to have a long intake manifold? If your seat post in the way do you have your engine mounted off-kilter may be cockeyed? If so that would explain the problem you were having with your drive gear/sprocket.
    Next do you have a lot of copper wire wrapped around your carburetor area ?
    When I built my bike I stripped it down to the frame sanded it down and gave it a really nice paint job but by the time I put the motor on it was stuff to our house so I understand how that goes. FedEx are not that important to me , well they are a little bit so, and actually I use that plastic drain tile pipe to make fenders for my motorbike. I gave it kind of a Mad Max look I really really happy with it!
    I think the main problem you're having is, you need to slow down think about it look at it. How did it run when you first got it?
    Because honestly it looks like you've got way too much stuff!!! just wrapped around and slapped on there are not tight enough to get a good air seal anywhere. I MEAN ANYWHERE! I don't know maybe they're just Dead photos but it just looks really really sloppy, And like I said I'm not trying to be insulting or demeaning or rude or anything like that. I'm simply saying I think you need to slow down look at it and take your time get the right parts to do the right job. These are very simple Motors but they can be FRIGGING COMPLEX! Good luck to you buddy. And once you get it going properly be safe and have fun and always wear a helmet.
    Sincerely
    WINDY CITY BOB.
     
  18. jatgm1

    jatgm1 Member

    no actually its sealed well now, though it had a leak between the exhaust and the engine block. if it were leaking it would run more lean, and i wouldnt have the problem i have of it running rich i would have no torque. also, i think when moving all the air hitting that should fly it into the carb, and if not a t shirt i can get something thinner, i assumed with a higher rate of air flow into the engine it'll mean slightly leaner of a mixture. what should i use instead of a t-shirt? its pretty thin.
     
  19. Did you test your (sealed air leaks) by starting your engine and then revving it and or just letting it idle Then spraying it with some gum out? If you do that and the engine dies down you have a leak.
    Like I said no disrespect man but this isn't some kind of a joke is it? And why do you have bare copper wire wrapped all around your intake? What purpose does that serve?
     
  20. One final thing why is your fuel filter 1 inch from your carburetor I think you should move it back about 3 inches, when you have it that close but doesn't have enough time to go through that and be all bubbly and then get into your fuel line into your carburetor I think that's your problem.
     
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