Fifty miles and still running well.

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I dearly wished I could get a bit of help as I want to install Monark springer forks with disk brakes.
Can you help a brother?
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Another view, an I cannot tell you what a great riding experience. You have to do it.
 
Nice bike.

I'm not sure what kind of help you're looking for, though. Are you asking if it can be done? The answer is yes. I'd have done it by now myself. Except that I just can't bring myself to pay that kind of price. Monarch's aren't cheap. Instead I just use shock absorber forks from cheap mountain bikes. Plus a drum brake front wheel.

Your bike is a Huffy Panama Jack or something like that, isn't it? I have a high opinion of those Huffys. But there is one thing to warn you about. I've heard that the chain stays sometimes break just where that factory luggage rack welds on. You might want to reinforce those junctions.
 
I dearly wished I could get a bit of help as I want to install Monark springer forks with disk brakes.
Can you help a brother?

Looks like you would need a monarch springer fork with a 1" threaded steerer tube. I think most are designed for frame steerer tubes measuring 7.25" or less. I don't think that would be a problem on your bike by the looks of it. Other than making sure the springer is the right size there is really nothing to it. Take your old fork out, put the new one in. I've never set up a disc brake before but it can't be that difficult.

I actually plan on replacing my headset with a threadless one and installing a set of threadless MTB suspension forks later on.
 
Nice bike.

I'm not sure what kind of help you're looking for, though. Are you asking if it can be done? The answer is yes. I'd have done it by now myself. Except that I just can't bring myself to pay that kind of price. Monarch's aren't cheap. Instead I just use shock absorber forks from cheap mountain bikes. Plus a drum brake front wheel.

Your bike is a Huffy Panama Jack or something like that, isn't it? I have a high opinion of those Huffys. But there is one thing to warn you about. I've heard that the chain stays sometimes break just where that factory luggage rack welds on. You might want to reinforce those junctions.
bluegoatwoods,
Thanks.
This model is the Classic Cruiser. I have a salvaged Schwinn mountain bike frame in the shed with telescopic forks and V brake bosses. It's still there. And yes I have seen the posts of the cracks in the seat stays. I also gave my buddie with the same bike powered by a predator 212cc from King bikes. If anything will brake a weld that power plant has potential.
Good thing he is a fabrication welder.
 
Looks like you would need a monarch springer fork with a 1" threaded steerer tube. I think most are designed for frame steerer tubes measuring 7.25" or less. I don't think that would be a problem on your bike by the looks of it. Other than making sure the springer is the right size there is really nothing to it. Take your old fork out, put the new one in. I've never set up a disc brake before but it can't be that difficult.

I actually plan on replacing my headset with a threadless one and installing a set of threadless MTB suspension forks later on.
Hello Moto!,
Your reply is spot on! Spec'ing the tube size and the need to be threaded. I was loath tear the bike apart. Setting up for disk brakes hesitates a hub flange with threaded holes to mount the disk.
I must be nuts! just added up the total less tax and shipping.
Laced front wheel, disk ready $65, Front disk brake $49, MonarkII with brake adaptor $214, Suspension seat post from
Custom Motored Bicycles $19.49 . You do the math it appalled me!
The sprung seat post just because the Huffy saddle runs out of spring quick.
Also I know the good of a sprung seat post as my 1950 Harley has one. Good thing I got some over time in.
Oh well this MB upgrade is going to force me to at last sell my 1972 Schwinn Paramount P15.
I haven't rode it in twenty years, somebody should get the good of it.
I did so love the sparkle of the chromed spokes in evenings under the street lights.
Tom.
 
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