Final Install of my Leaf Blowe Motor.

Discussion in 'Friction Drive' started by hot70cc, Jan 9, 2008.

  1. hot70cc

    hot70cc Guest

    Final Install of my Leaf Blower Motor.

    Ok after only about 6 hours total i finished my little project. I mounted a husquvanna<(SP) back pack leaf blower 30+cc motor on my BMX bike. I didn't have much of a problem other debating wether to do a sprocket or shaft drive. Well I decided to take the easy route out. I used a shaft drive. Easy start. I didn't do a spring system i just mounted the shaft directly against the tire. It isn't that hard to start. I have to be going about 5mph to start it, Or i can use the pull start, wich is easy to warm up the motor before i try to ride. If i wanna stop all i do is hit the kill switch and brake. It starts back up after i pedal a little bit more not a problem. Ok, topspeed i am estimating 30+mph straight away, going up a hill not that good only about 12-15 with pedaling. I wasn't expecting much going up a hill with a small motor but once it is a full throttle. it is fast and quiet. The hill for example is a very steep hill , so i'm sure if i was going up a minor hill it would be maybe 15-20. I haven't got a chance to take it very far yet but i will keep you all posted.Thanks to alll the ideas i have got from all the members on here how to do a simple install. Thanks again.
     

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    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 10, 2008

  2. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    Cool. What diameter is the drive roller? What did you make it out of?
     
  3. hot70cc

    hot70cc Guest

    Thanks

    I had used a 1 3/8 inch diameter 1/8 inch 11 gauge thick hollow steel pipe. Attached to a 2 1/2 inch diameter 1/8 inch thick washer. The easiest part of this was that the blower disc had 3 holes already tapped in the small shaft attached to the moter, so all i had to do is drill the holes in the washer to match the 3 holes in the shaft. The only welding on this whole project was the washer to the rod, everthing else i drilled tapped and screwed. Yeah i had to do some fabricating with the steel braces , but thats simple compared to doing all the welding. So if i ever wanted to remove the moter it would be simple and not have to worry about grinding welds.
     
  4. hot70cc

    hot70cc Guest

    If you all want some more close up pics i can take them today after i get up lol
     
  5. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    Actually closer and clearer pics would help to get a better understanding.
     
  6. iRide Customs

    iRide Customs Member

    Cool! It's amazing how easy it can be. Can you give us a closer picture of the three bolted drive shaft before you installed the roller?

    I have been eyeballing a 4 stroke Millwaukie (sp?) leaf blower at Home Depot. I think it's around 30cc and $170.
     
  7. hot70cc

    hot70cc Guest

    I don't have a pic of it before, but i will take a close up of the 3 screw holes.
     
  8. hot70cc

    hot70cc Guest

    update.....

    ok sorry for the crappy pics. the last pic is whats left of my leaf blower lol. If i wanted to make the bike go faster do i use a smaller shaft????. Cause if so i will problebly take the time and get a more corse shaft. Its ok now but i don't know how long. I used JB weld and ground up stones and mixed the two together and applied with a glove. That may have been the dumbest thing i couldve done but it was the first thing that came to my mind. I used what was laying around. I have about $5 in this whole project. The leaf blower was givin to me about 3 years ago and only used maybe once, so i figured i may have well get some use out of the motor. thanks
     

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  9. Sianelle

    Sianelle Guest

    An excellent motor conversion :grin: Very nicely done.

    Myself I could never understand what use a leaf blower was anyway, - I'd rather use a rake or a broom and get the job done properly.
     
  10. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    Nice Build.

    I like it. :cool:

    A larger diameter friction roller on your engine will make you go faster.


    30mph is plenty fast (for me)!!!:lol:

    dave
     
  11. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    I'm using a 1.5" roller, and get a little over 30 mph with a TLE43. You can experiment with different sized rollers, but I think you may find that you chose a good diameter to begin with. How's the coating holding up on the roller?
     
  12. hot70cc

    hot70cc Guest

    Not to bad so far. The bigger chunks of stones came off wich i was expecting that would happen, but the smaller pieces seem to be ok. I maybe have 10miles on it so far. If i Had some regular sand and JB weld, i think that would be the way to go. Also before applying to the roller, i used a file and went around the roller to make a rough surface to really bond to.
     
  13. Esteban

    Esteban Active Member

    Pretty nice & inventive. You can buy a small grinding wheel , like the cheap ones you see with a 1/4" shank attached to use in a drill. Wrap grinding wheel in a rag, & beat it with a hammer til it is in granules. Mix this grit with t JB Weld, & apply a thin coat, as level as possible, to your pipe [ drive wheel ]. Last a very long time, not too hard on tires, & will even grip pretty well when tires are wet.
     
  14. I have seen one homemade friction drive that uses a small inflated tire to press against your tire. It was probably on the forum somewhere.
     
  15. smapadatha

    smapadatha Guest

    That is an interesting idea, but you can buy bags of graded abrasive grit (silicon carbide and other types) from stores that sell lapidary/rock tumbling supplies. This would save the hammerization time, unless the different sized pieces are useful. One of these days I am going to use that JB Weld idea to make some custom grinding bits.

    -Sam
     
  16. Egor

    Egor Guest

    Hot70 - I see you are using Direct drive. Do you just pedal off to start? I have a folding bike with a direct drive but the engine has too much compression to do that. I am using a 7/8 roller and I think it needs to be larger, I don't need to go fast, but a higher gear will make it easier to start. I like making things on a simple scale. I used the engine off of a water pump, it actually had a shaft about 1/2 in diameter, I just sleeved it. It is a 45cc two smoke. I have three of them, all of them were left with water in the housing and there was nothing left to save in the pump. I used the belt material from a belt sander and then contact cement it to the shaft, overlapping in the direction of rotation to keep it from pealing off, I have only a few miles on it and the coarse belt is hard on the tires, I will have to buff it down. I am making a lever to move the engine off the tire at a stop. Thanks for making me think, I have not worked on this bike for years. Have fun, Dave
     
  17. hot70cc

    hot70cc Guest

    Yes, I Pedal to start it and yes it takes leg strength, BUT it only takes 2 or 3 revolutions of the pedals to start it, and off i go. I will not use this bike in town due to all the stop signs. What make it the easiest for me to start is that i also have a pull start on it, i use that to warm up my engine before i take off. I just lift up my bike by the back seat and let it warm up. I'm not that sure but i believe that your roller is to small, I had thought my roller was to small but , i was told that it is actually almost the perfect size 1 3/8.
     
  18. Esteban

    Esteban Active Member

    You would be surprised how easy & cheap it is. They cost about a dollar, locally, & can be hammered out in less than a minute. Of course, like you mentioned, if a local place sells the grit, it might be better to buy a bag full, especially if you have many drive rollers to cover.
     
  19. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    I just spent $80+ to buy a new roller and have it shipped up here. If the JB wears well, I can just recondition the one I have, and perhaps coat the new one in a surface that might work better when wet. I don't have any lapidary stores nearby, but I can get worn cutting wheels for free. Thanks for the idea.
     
  20. hot70cc

    hot70cc Guest

    different lighter and shorter drive shaft

    here is a pic of my drive shaft that I am going to replace , because my other shaft wobbles to much and i took the time to make sure this is as true as it gets,because the other shaft the washer wasn't alligned perfectly making by bike vibrate to much. To give you all a heads up i'm not sure if the JB Weld was mixed properly but. when i went thru a puddle of water i could hear the engine wind but i wasn't going any faster. The weld was starting to come off of the shaft therefore taking all the grit off as well. I will keep you all posted.
     
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