Finishing Motor Kit - Noob could use advice

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by Biff Malibu, Apr 3, 2011.

  1. Biff Malibu

    Biff Malibu New Member

    So I'm almost done with this thing. I only have to finish the:

    1) Throttle & Clutch Cables
    2) Bike Chain / Motor Chain
    3) Clean up the wiring
    4) Few minor adjustments

    Now - I'm still trying to figure out how the heck this lever attaches to the bike off the left sprocket - I know it has something to do with the coaster brakes. Should have payed more attention when I took it off. :confused:

    The fuel on/off piece is oriented to the gas tank so that everytime I screwed it in, the lever faced into the frame, preventing it from fully opening. I had to use a washer so that it would give it space for the lever to fully open.

    The CDI came with fast connects as well as the white wire for the kill switch, but not the female end of the kill switch - so I had to use a butt connector and ground the other wire.

    The pedals are scraping the header of the exhaust pipe just barely - like by a mm or two. I'll have to adjust how the motor is mounted as well so it clears.

    And - I also have no clue what the heck this piece that came with the kit is, or what its supposed to do if anything. :confused::confused::confused::confused:





    Any help / advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2011

  2. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    the lever on the left's probably the arm for the coaster brake. without it, you won't have any brakes and your axle could possibly rotate backwards when you try to stop. This could cause the wheel bearings to come loose.
    it's easy to put back on because it only fits onto the hub 2 ways. one way will be right, the other way it wil be upside down. it has flat spots in it that line up with flat spots on the axle nut. (this is the nut that holds the bearings in...not sure of the correct name for it) The brake arm slides onto the axle nut with the 2 flat spots, and then a regular nut goes on over the beake arm to hold it tight. If you put the regular nut back on the axle before you put the brake arm on, you'll never get it to go back on. (pics of what your trying to figure out would help.) I know that you had to take the brake arm off to get your sprocket on and i'm thinking that you put the regular nut back on before you put the brake arm back on. In some instances you have to slightly bend the brake arm so it clears the bolts on the sprocket....just an f.y.i.

    If you put a regular washer under the fuel on/off fitting, it will leak gas big time.You need to use a fiber washer which will take up the same area as a regular washer, and it will make it dso the lever isn't hitting trhe frame. your kit shoudl have came with a red fiber washer for this. some teflon tape or gas fitting sealant on the threads will also help seal it. these are cheap valves and they are known to leak.

    as for the cdi wire connectors, do yourself a favor and cut off all the connectors. (also cut off the butt connector that you installed.) solder all wire connections and cover them with heat shrink. this will give you more reliable connections, and they will flow a little more juice. those plug in connectors and butt connectors will work, but they can rattle loose, pull apart, and they are give a lot of resistance. soldering your wires and heat shrinking them also makes the wiring look a lot cleaner and more professional in my opinion. I have no idea why i read that so many people have to ground one of the wires to the frame. I have built 3 bikes and have never had to do that. Just hook the wires up as the instructions say and it will be fine. I can't tell you how to hook them up because the wires on my bikes could be different colors than yours and i don't want to add any confusion. all i know is that i hooked my wires up (for example red to red, blue to blue and black to black) on all my bikes and they all work perfect. The colors of your wires may be different so i don't know what to tell you. the colors of the wires don't matter, but what does matter is where they go. I am not a wiring expert so i can't really help you out there.

    actually to cure the exhaust rubbing on the cranks, you can bend the pipe (not the muffler). You shouldn't need to re-position your motor and actually that probably won't help you because you will only be able to move the motor forward or back, not side to side. but i see what your saying...if you move the motor forward a little it will raise the pipe and it might gove you some more clearance. personally if it were me, i'd just take the pipe off, and put a small dent in it with a ball peen hammer where the crank is rubbing.
    you can also take the pipe off the motor and put it in a vice. heat the pipe up where you want to bend it stick a steel bar into the pipe and bend it. you can only bend the pipe itself, not the muffler. whatever you do, don't try to bend the pipe while it's on the motor because you will break the exhaust mounting studs. putting a small dent in the pipe might be your easiest solution tho.

    when you install the slide in your carb after you hook up the throttle cable, make sure you put it in the right way. if you look at the slide when you take it out, you will see that it has 2 slots cut in the sides of it. the short slot goes to the left side where the idle screw is. the long slot gets lined up with a pin that is inside the carb body. if you put the slide in wrong it will either be at wide open throttle all the time, the slide can stick and hang up and you wil not be able to adjust the idle. also make sure that you drill a small hole in the handle bars where the throttle handle goes on, there is a pin in the throttle assembly and that pin needs to go into a locating hole (that you need to drill in the handlebars) to keep the throttle assembly from rotating around on the handlebars.

    that part that you havem that you have no idea what it is... I'm pretty sure that it's a clutch removal tool. none of my engine kits came with one but i'm pretty sure that's what it is.
  3. Skyliner70cc

    Skyliner70cc Active Member

    High speeds and coaster brakes = disaster. PLEASE get front brakes. Lots of failures with coaster brakes that aren't designed to stop you from high speeds the motorized bikes are capable of.
  4. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    I have one bike with a coaster brake only and it stops fine.
    My other bike has a caliper rear brake only and it too stops fine.
    no front brakes on either of my bikes, but then again i don't zoom around on city streets or streets with traffic either.
    I mainly ride in my neighborhood where there's no traffic except for the occasional car here and there. My neighborhood only has 2 stop signs.
  5. goodtime65

    goodtime65 Member

    the tool included with the kit is used to remove the clutch, sprocket and the small gear on the crankshaft
  6. Biff Malibu

    Biff Malibu New Member

    Motorpsycho - It is definitely the arm for the coaster brake. I have it back on the outside of the motor sprocket and it rotates fine --- Although I'm trying to figure out where the other end of the arm connects to - Will take picture and have up shortly.

    Kit did not come with fiber washer - Duly noted - I will pick up a fiber washer before proceeding. I truly appreciate the tip - Because left to my own devices I would have proceeded with the regular washer and learned the hard way.

    To be honest - can't say I've ever had to pick up a fiber washer. I'm guessing they would have them at an auto store - If not any suggestions on where to pick one up?

    You know whats funny - I was thinking the same thing about soldering the wires. Those fast connects can get pulled out so easy - Will do this as well. Mainly had them set up like this for "testing" before doing any soldering.

    The thing with the grounded wire is this. CDI has two wires that connect to two engine wires just fine. Its the kill switch that has two wires, and only one white wire from the engine. The online install manual I read said to ground the extra wire. ( In other words, 4 component wires running to 3 wires off the engine )

    I see what you're saying about the pipe - It's not exactly like this is "high performance" ... a mm or two ding isn't going to hurt it much.

    Good heads up on the throttle... Knew I took a break for today for a reason.

    I think you and goodtime are right about the removal tool (thanks goodtime). I'm finishing it up and I'm thinking ... Please don't tell me this was supposed to go on somewhere ... LOL. Going over the system that piece just didn't make sense anywhere.

    I truly appreciate your time for your help. I'm much more confident on proceeding now.

    I know that these kits aren't the hardest things in the world to set up, but a set of instructions with my kit would have been nice. LOL.

    Skyliner --- It is a coaster brake style bike - I can completely imagine the problems stopping with coaster brake alone - I'm glad I joined up on this forum too (where I learned about it). I am getting a front rim brake to start. I am ware of the dangers of riding a motorized bike - I'm not going to hop on this thing and charge without proper testing.
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2011
  7. Biff Malibu

    Biff Malibu New Member

    OK. Took some pics just to knock it out of the way.

    Picture 1 - I think I have this lever on the right spot - Where does the other end attach to?


    I think it may have something to do with the long piece here?


    Pic of all pieces left in kit

  8. Skyliner70cc

    Skyliner70cc Active Member

    yeah, my bad. you are right.
  9. Biff Malibu

    Biff Malibu New Member


    Here we go. It appears that I am missing the clamp ......

    No wonder why I couldn't figure it out. :dunce:
  10. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    you have the brake arm upside down, but in the right spot on the axle.
  11. Biff Malibu

    Biff Malibu New Member

    Easy enough fix. :jester:

    Looks like it will be back on track for this week. More updates to follow.

    Thanks guys.
  12. ibdennyak

    ibdennyak Guest

    If you took the long thing you referred to, and bent it around your chainstay, you would have a clamp. :grin5:
  13. Biff Malibu

    Biff Malibu New Member

    One thing to the next I tell ya.

    Lets see - Wiring redone, soldered and shrink wrapped. Coaster brake taken care of.

    Now I go to set up the chains and take off the plate to access the engines sprocket.

    2 out of 3 bolts come off fine.

    1 is stuck in there like excalibur. It's not coming out.

    So I had to drill out the 3rd bolt. Not fun.

    There is a reason these kits are cheap ... Because they are cheap.

    So far my kit has been missing a gasket for the gas tank, came with a bolt stuck in stone - and I'm beginning to wonder about my throttle.

    Left to go:

    Shorten chains (Had to buy a chain breaker tool)

    Throttle and clutch cables.

    Install front brake kit (have the parts now)

    So I guess its coming to a completion ... Although I am currently frustrated with the quality.
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2011
  14. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    really, you don't even need to take that side cover off to get the chain around the sprocket.
    if you feed one end of the chain in and onto the sprocket from the top, you can use a screwdriver to rotate the sprocket forward (with the clutch disengaged). rotating the sprocket will pull the chain around and out the bottom. then you can just pull the chain through with your hand until you have the end where you want it to put on the master link.

    The peice for the throttle is a small pin and it should be molded into the the throttle handle itself. when you take the 2 parts apart that wrap around your handlebars (by removing the 2 screws that hold it together), the top part should have a very small steel pin molded in it. you need to drill a hole in the handlebars for this pin to sit into. when you put the 2 peices back together the pin will go into the hole you drilled and lock the throttle handle to the handlebars.

    a chain breaker is a good tool to have but it isn't necessary. you can grind the heads off the rivits that hold the chan together and punch them out. but, you have to have a grinder or a dremel tool with a grinding disk.
  15. Biff Malibu

    Biff Malibu New Member

    Not good. Don't have the pin molded in the handle. I'll take a pic of what I have. :shout:

    * Keep in mind though that my throttle/kill switch are separate parts - they're not the integrated style.

    I have both - Although the chain breaker cost me $9 - I'll keep it around so I don't have to break out my discs and send sparks everywhere. :goofy: