First Ride!

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by moun10biker, Oct 30, 2009.

  1. moun10biker

    moun10biker Member

    I built my bike up, with my 66cc happy time, and loaded up the tank at 16:1 with 1 oz of marvels mystery oil. Yesterday I Fired that baby up, and no problems. at WOT, i got to 19 mph , and im breaking this in. I am using Valvoline multipurpose 2 cycle oil. No problems, and Its been fun, other than the gasket for the exhaust pipe some how disappeared, leaving that hot pipe pretty wobbly. And the cap to the pipe fell off. I'm going to get a different pipe anyways. And the carb leaks a bit.

    But today I rode it around for a long while, taking breaks, and gettng to the end of my tank. I was riding, and then the engine sputtered out and died, so I thought I was out of gas. So I went back home, mixed my oil, mmo, and gas at 16:1 and plopped it in tank. I primed the tank, and went to fire it up, but when I let off of the clutch, the engine was just turning over, but the sound of the engine increase slightly when i pulled in the throttle. The bike wont start and just go through what I just described again and again. How can I get my bike running again?
     

  2. bluegoatwoods

    bluegoatwoods Well-Known Member

    First place I'd check is the electrical connections. They'll loosen up and leave you scratching your head for a while.
     
  3. moun10biker

    moun10biker Member

    im not getting any sparks in the plug.
     
  4. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    Getting to the end of the tank...First thing comes to mind is trash in the tank. With the fuel on remove the small screw at the bottom of the carb bowl and make sure you have fuel flow. Then on to electrical.
     
  5. moun10biker

    moun10biker Member

    Oh yeah! Theres fuel in there! haha leaked all over the place when I un did the screw. So I dont think its a problem with the fuel.
     
  6. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    Bad kill switch, bad coil, bad CDI....Disconect kill switch try and report.
     
  7. moun10biker

    moun10biker Member

    Tried it. no different. Its the same, It turns over, and when I give it gas, it changes the sound slightly, but thats all.
     
  8. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    Do you have a test light or a DC meter. If so disconnect the blue wire coming from the coil to the CDI. Connect tester between the coil wire and ground. Spin engine over and see if you have fire from the coil. If you don't have a test light/meter go get one or I can tell you how to make a test light. Report
    OH and that sound change is most likely the engine sucking air from the intake when the piston in the carb is moved in the upward position letting air in.
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2009
  9. moun10biker

    moun10biker Member

    i dont have a test light or a voltmeter. How do you make one? is it expensive?
     
  10. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    real cheap.... all you need is a 12V or 6V light bulb used in a automobile and some wire the thinner the better 18G or smaller. Do you have a solder iron...nice but not needed.
     
  11. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    Here you will see the cheapest I can do for you. Bulb, wire and tape.

    First picture..bulb and wire,
    Second picture... Wire stripped and ready to attach.
    Third picture...attach wire to ground side of bulb. The wire is wrapped around the base two or three times and taped. I used scotch tape so you can see the connection.
    Fourth picture...Tape wire to positive side of bulb. I put the tape on the wire then taped to contacts. After which I ran tape around bulb base to make secure.
    Fifth/sixth picture. Test bulb with a battery, I used a 9V, if not handy use a car battery. I don't think a AAA, AA, C, or D will work. A battery charger will work.

    When testing the test light make sure that you test with propper voltage, meaning that if you use a 6V bulb don't test with a 12V battery as you will be making a second one. You can use less voltage but not much more. A 12V battery will most likely smoke a 6V bulb.

    By the way, the test light will work either way you hook up the wires. positive to positive or positive to negative.
     

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    Last edited: Oct 31, 2009
  12. moun10biker

    moun10biker Member

    I'm not sure about how to do that from the explaination. Do you have a diagram? BTW, I just went out and got 2 NGK B6HS spark plugs. Hooked them up, and I got nothing still.
     
  13. moun10biker

    moun10biker Member

    Thanks, I made the test light. It works. So when I connect it, I attach the light to the blue wire from the engine, and then the other wire to the black one? I'm slightly confused. Sorry, Im tottaly new to this electrical stuff.:idea:
     
  14. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    Using your test light attach one wire to the black and the other to the blue...turn motor over the light should light up if coil is good. Then undo the wire going to the blue wire and attach to white and retest. Make sure you are using the wires from the coil. If this checks out good and still no spark I'd replace the CDI. When one lead of the test light is connected to black, you should be able to light up the bulb on both the blue and white wire test.

    Don't worry...you are doing quite well being you are 14.
     
  15. moun10biker

    moun10biker Member

    This is how I tested it, (well, the hook up) and the light didn't turn on. The tester works though. I'm going to get a new capacitor for $10. For me the white wire is generator, and i haven't hooked anything up to it. Could thast be doing anything?
     

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  16. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    I can't tell if you hooked the test light to the coil (inside the engine) or the CDI (the unit where the spark plug wire comes from) You need to test the coil and the engine needs to be turning over. This can be done by removing the spark plug, lift the rear wheel off the ground and spin the rear wheel. Another way is to secure the bulb on the bike (tape it out of the way) and peddle the bike like you want to start the engine...without the spark plug installed.
     
  17. havemurci

    havemurci New Member

    Hey,

    I had the same problem around 20 miles into my bike. The engine just turned over when I let out the clutch, no sound of a spark, and the throttle just changed the tone of the engine. Then I noticed all kinds of black oil coming out of my exhaust and engine (I had a loose exhaust gasket). Turns out that the black piece of plastic with the 90 degree turn that connects the spark plug wire to the spark plug itself had just come off. I pushed it back in, it started right up.

    I've attached your picture with an arrow-- try pushing the pieces together before you go out buying capacitors and stuff! It doens't make sense for the CDI to stop working randomly, it's essentially solid state.

    Good luck!
     

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  18. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    That is incorect....The spark plug wire does not push in. On the CDI where the plug wire goes in has a screw and the wire threads onto that screw. Fact...my coil went out the first day...keep in mind who makes these cra*ppy parts... If you are talking about the wire to plug then OK. I'd change the wire and plug connector to begin with.

    If you get no fire out of the coil the coil is bad and has nothing to do with the CDI.

    Just because it's new doesn't mean it's worth a dam.n

    Blue arrow is where the screw is located...the wire was trash on the first kit but had good wire on the next two. Changed the plug cap on all three,
     

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    Last edited: Oct 31, 2009
  19. moun10biker

    moun10biker Member

    excuse my noob question, but is the coil inside the engine or in the CDI (or a part of)

    Oh, I always have pushed the spark plug cap right on the spark plug. It was too hard to screw on. Ill do that in the future. ****, i just bought a new CDI. ERRRRR!
     
  20. havemurci

    havemurci New Member

    Okay, maybe it screws in.

    Yes, the spark plug cap does push right onto the plug itself, you'll hear it rattle and then stop once it's made contact.

    I'm talking about the junction between the spark plug cap and the spark plug wire. Mind came loose soon after I got my bike running, and I just pushed it back on, and my bike ran for a good 220 miles.

    Yours looks like it might be loose, look at the picture I posted if you like.

    Always good advice to do plenty of research before you buy a bunch of parts, though.

    EDIT: The coil is in the engine. Yes, I suppose it is possible for it to go bad, but if it has you should call up your dealer and arrange for a new engine. You shouldn't have to pay for a failure that catastrophic. But check to see if your spark plug wire + cap are operational first.
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2009
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