First Time not starting - HT Powerking

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by techboss, May 12, 2008.

  1. techboss

    techboss New Member

    Spent many hours on the assembly of this bike as I am a newbie in the Motor bike world. In fact I am also a newbie in bike repair or motorcycle.

    For the pedal to clear the motor, I had to change the bike crank to a bike BMX crank. Still limited room to pedal.

    Newbie Questions and concerns:
    - The clutch is a bit on the hard side to press, but it will allow me to pedal (not locked up) when I engage the clutch. I think this is normal.
    - I mixed the gas to a ratio of 1:18 ? Gas colour seem to be blue. See my album. Is this correct mix of gas?
    - The sprocket is installed very sturdy and I took off 4 links. With the tensioner, I managed to get the chain straight. When cycling I can see the sprocket not very straight, should I be concern?
    - Gas leak, the gas seem to leak below the gas tank. just before the On/OFF switch area. What can I do to reduce or eliminate the leak?
    - All wires are connected except for the kill switch, I never unfasten the spark plug before, it was installed when shipped.
    - Pressed the button near the carb to let gas in and had the leaver at 3/4 up the way...pedal like nuts and try to release the clutch while throttle on nothing happen.

    Can someone help a newbie here, to the next step in troubleshooting this machine.

    Link to my pictures of the bike and install:

  2. spad4me

    spad4me Member

    Large Phillipino solved the clutch force problem with a roller pulley search for it.
    Your sprocket needs to be straighter.
    Evenly tighten the nine bolts holding your rear 44 tooth sprocket on. You should have a spoke sandwich with a sprocket a rag washer spokes another rag washer and finally the backing plates.

    There was a lot of crud in my tank even after cleaning it out before installing it. I went through two fuel filters getting all the gooey junk.
    I had to prime ,push the tickler button,like crazy to get fuel to flow until I finally washed all the goo out of the tank by using the gas up.

    Fix this QUICK
    Gas leak, the gas seem to leak below the gas tank. just before the On/OFF switch area. What can I do to reduce or eliminate the leak?

    Is your gas cap leaking down the side of the tank?

    Is there a hole in the bottom of your gas tank.
    Is one of the mounting bolts leaking.
  3. Scottm

    Scottm Guest

    Well start here

    Large's mod is title large's mod near the bottom under the heading of Mods. But I think that my be getting ahead of ourselves. Jst stick to basic right now

    I've always used 20:1 mixture.
    You NEED to have that sprocket true or you will wobble out your bearings, break spokes. You will also have a rough vibrating ride. It's the same reason you have your tires balanced on your car.

    Is the gas leaking where the on/off valve screws in? Is the little red washer between the valve and the tank?

    Make sure the spak plug IS in, mine was only hand tight and let air in while i tried to start it..

    Make sure your choke is open and also check for places air might leak in. ie carb and muffler .

    Good luck
  4. techboss

    techboss New Member

    Thanks for the replies guys.

    So for the sprocket, I should have both the black "Binders" inside the spokes, such as illustrated in pages 5-6 in ? Should I also increase the sprocket main hole by filing off to fit the wheel. As you can see on the picture below the default sprocket does not fit well into the wheel.


    Gas Leak
    The gas leaks at the red washer location. I guess I can put some kind of white tape around it. Below is a picture pointing to the exact location of the leak.


    Clutch idea
    spad4me, thanks for the clutch idea you pointed to Large Filipino. That looks great, but too complicated for me.
  5. impression

    impression Member

    i have the same leak problem, what i did was to put plumber's teflon tape on the thread before screwing the tap into the tank
  6. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    Do that tape things that impression suggests.
    Those rubbers spacers need to be on both inwards & outwards side of the spokes to "sandwich" the spokes(see link & refer to it for other stuff)
    That hole in the sprocket needs to fit as close to perfect as possible...if it's too small(with atleast the outward rubber spacer there) try filing some of it off....better to machine it off so it's perfectly round,but failing that a file will do.
  7. techboss

    techboss New Member

    Kill Switch

    Finally managed to start this beast after releasing more gas by pressing the button on the carb more, unfortunately I did not really align the sprocket yet so it came off after a 10 meters ride.

    Danger Danger
    My Kill Switch is not working :shock:. Where should I connect the Black (A) cable and Yellow (B) cable. (A) and (B) is the kill switch. I am assuming (A) should be correct and (B) should be grounded to the frame?

  8. impression

    impression Member


    DO NOT USE INCLUDED KILL SWITCH, you will kill your engine.

    see the blue wire ?

    see how it can come apart into 2 ?

    well, from each end run a wire to a spot onto the handlebars, there make yourself a flip/toggle switch. This is how you get a 'kill switch' without killing the magneto. :)
  9. techboss

    techboss New Member

    The Ignition Box has 2 wires: 1 Black and 1 Blue
    The Engine has 3 wires: 1 Black, 1 Blue and 1 White
    The Kill Switch has 2 wires: 1 Black and 1 Yellow

    So I assume this is correct

    Connected together: Engine Black - Ignition Black - Kill Switch Black
    Connected together: Engine Blue - Ignition Blue
    Kill Switch Yellow cable attached to the bike frame for grounding?
  10. impression

    impression Member


    Engine blue to ignition blue
    Engline black to ignition black
    Engine white to NOTHING
    Kill switch yellow to nothing
    Kill switch black/green to nothing.

    just stall the bike to stop it until you get this setup happening

    Engine blue > toggle switch > Ignition blue. and use this toggle switch as the new 'kill switch' as it cuts ignition to the spark plug and does not short the magneto to kill the engine.
  11. japennell

    japennell Guest

    It also appears that you have not install an inline fuel filter. Though this may not have any bearing on your current problem, many have suggested installing one. (And it is very easy.)

    It is a filter that rest in between the tank and the engine. You cut the fuel line and install it, connecting each of the two pieces of fuel line to each end of the fuel filter.
    Last edited by a moderator: May 15, 2008
  12. adamtheha

    adamtheha Member

    If you really need a kill switch, you CAN use the stock one (I do), but don't connect anything to the white wire. Cap it or cut it right off, it's useless. Connect the yellow wire to the blue/green one (expose a bit more of the copper strands, slide it into the male end of one blue, and put the other blue one inside. Then solder together), and solder the black on to some piece of exposed metal, either on the engine or the bike. I used the mounting bracket.
    The switch cuts power to the spark plug, sending it into your bike instead. Using the white wire will apparently kill your magneto, that's the general consensus.