folding daypack 33cc frik-drive

Discussion in 'Introduce Yourself' started by rawly old, Feb 27, 2011.

  1. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    Okay,
    First post, so here goes. I'm 60 sumthin' and prefer to pedal,
    but, having had major trama to both legs, I thought I could use
    a little boost now and then.
    Soooo...., having rescued a 33cc homelite,(ryobi) weedwack-
    er from fleamarket for $5, I set to work on a stealth frik outfit.
    The gal was honest enuff to say it was'nt workin', but hey,$5.
    The plastic starter gizmo was busted. (eh..., don't need it.)
    Fuel filter was clogged, but after rippin' off all the nonessent-
    ial plastic, i cleaned it up and got it runnin' like new.
    My finished product looks kinda like an outboard motor. In
    place of the U bracket on a stanton, I have a 5/16" bolt ex-
    tended out to the left. The motor is mounted to an 18"
    piece of 3 1/2" x 1" x 1/8" aluminum angle. A piece of 1"
    alu. tube from an old is bolted to it and folds when one of the
    2 bolts is removed.
    The whole thing pivots up & down on the 5/16 bolt. My
    drive roller is a 7/8" deep socket to which I have epoxied
    1/4" strips of 36 grit emory paper sprocket fashion. there's
    a hook that holds the rod up &, hence the roller down. Un-
    hooked, a short bungi to the bottle holder lifts the roller off.
    My throttle is the twist shifter off a trashed, piece o'
    **** mongoose. a simple toggle serves as kill switch.
    The whole the folds down to 18" x 8" x 9" and fits hand-
    ily into my daypack. It takes less than 2 min. to install or
    remove and works great. If I can get a camera and figure
    how to attach it, i'll post a photo.
     

  2. PatrickW

    PatrickW Staff Member

    "Rawly Old"...welcome to the forums at MBc. We have got to see some pictures of this...honestly! A disposable camera that takes digital photos ready to post on the web is less than $10-12 dollars. Please take some photos, close, and back farther to show the whole bike. I think we would all benefit by them. Until then, happy motor biking!
     
  3. Stan4d

    Stan4d Banned

    Welcome Rawly Old!!

    Here is a link to help with the pictures: How To......
     
  4. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    Just so folks don't get the wrong idea, this isn't as easy as it sounds initially.
    I've just explained the basic configuration. Making it work required a lot of
    trial and error, ingenuity, and fine tuning. A dremel, a vise, and a slug of
    tools are needed.
    To mount the cross bolt to which the kit attaches I used galvanized
    angle stock pre-drilled like erector set bits, split it so as to run 3 bolts like
    the staton mount, but each bolt then went into a 1 1/2' bit of angle turned
    so the cross bolt could slide thru. There are lock nuts on each side of these
    bits except the flat face from which the bolt protrudes. the kit mounts to
    this face over the bolt with a plastic washer on each side, a large fender
    washer and a wing nut. the plastic washers should be slightly larger than
    the O.D. of the fender washer. I made mine from the lid of a sour cream
    tub. this is important. Without the plastic to slip on the pivot, the wing nut
    will come loose.
    Beyond this, it is largely a matter of adjustments to get the thottle
    cable and roller tension right.
     
  5. Stan4d

    Stan4d Banned

    Believe me when I say, I agree. I am looking forward to the pics. It is more complicated than just words can convey.

    Welcome to MBc!!
     
  6. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    We're a bunch of tinkering fools here!!!! Anxious to see what you are doing.
    :tt1::idea:

    I live close enough to Missouri to say "Show Me".
    :D

    Welcome aboard!!
     
  7. Esteban

    Esteban Active Member

    Looking forward to some pix, too ! I prefer friction drive, myself.
     
  8. backazimuth

    backazimuth Member

    Oh do post some pics!
     
  9. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    I took a cpl. pics, and will load if I can just find the blankety-blank usp cord.
    Don't see what the big deal is; there's already a very similar unit on the mkt.
    it uses a loop of metal rod were i have tubular alum. on the handle. It doesn't
    fold, but looks as tho it could easily be made to do so. It's just a motor on a
    lever that hooks in place. Everyone's probably got junk layin 'round the garage
    they could use to make one.
     
  10. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    Can' get this to work

    Okay, got the pics in 'my pictures', went to Stan"s how to link,and
    followed the steps, but nothin's happenin'. Please understand, I'm
    the kinda guy who can fix a broken microwave, but needs his wife to
    set the datblame clock.
    Look, SrDavo, I spent one miserable year in Missouri, and the last woman there that said 'Show me!' was bitterly disappointed!
     
  11. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    fingers crossed,
    think i've got pics now
     

    Attached Files:

  12. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    If you look closely at the bike, you'll notice a twist grip & kil
    button on right handlebar. That's for the LEB channel-type
    fric drive I just got with a HF 52cc. I really like this kit cuz
    the roller is cogged so that it actually works better with
    knobbies and gets a better grip no matter what than the
    diamond checked rollers wet or dry.
    It came with a twist grip instead of a chintzy lever, but was
    a bit loose when installed. I solved this by cutting a cpl.
    rubberbands from a bike tube and smooshing them in the gap between
    the throttle housing and the grip with a slot screwdriver. The
    result was a nice firm twist that stays where you put it and works
    smoothly.
    The grips I put on over those installed are gator skin from an old
    briefcase found in a thrift, as is the tool kit. they have a thin layer
    of gel foam inside and are very comfortable, ergonomic, and
    terribly cool. the chrome ends are the spoke retainers off a 16"
    hub. my front pannier rack is a freebie old schwinn book rack
    re-engineered. (function before form)
     
  13. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    just a quick note on hooking up a throttle and building a drive roller:
    The throttle cable on most of these weedeater/brush trimmers is
    set up to pull the oposite direction from the carb. you'll need to
    reverse this by attaching it to the other end of the spring-loaded
    bell crank. It will also need to angle away from the engine some-
    what to keep it from snagging. Because the small hook thingy will
    not function from this position, replace it with the smallest fishing
    snap swivel to be found and use a drop of solder to keep it closed.
    Then to keep it from snagging on the carb housing, run it through
    a diagonally drilled hole in the aluminum L-beam. The rest shouldn't
    be hard to figure out.
    Making the 36 grit drive roller, either from a deep socket or a bike
    peg, requires a careful procedure to produce a durable result.
    1. paint the roller with a mixed epoxy,(preferably J & B weld).
    2. lay on 1/4" x 1 3/4" strips of 36 grit emory paper spacing them
    in a cog-like fashion 'round the roller.
    3. Now wrap the roller with wax paper and secure it in place with
    rubberbands. this will prevent the strips from pulling away during
    the cure.
    4. after about 4 hrs., before it cures completely, remove the wax
    paper, and 'lightly' paint the roller with more epoxy filling any voids.
    if you apply too much you'll end up with a smooth roller. the idea
    is to use just enough so the epoxy permeates completely thru the
    paper while leaving the rough texture of the grit. Allow at least 24
    hrs. at room temp. to cure thoroughly.
     
  14. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    Thanks

    Nice job on your build & Thanks for sharing the great info.

    Love the recycled gator-grips!! NICE!!!!
     
  15. Stan4d

    Stan4d Banned

    Really cool! it was worth the wait on the pics. I am going to try your tip on another project I have going......if it works out I will let you know.
     
  16. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    drive roller

    I forgot to mention the first step tho it should be obvious.
    Make sure the surface of the socket has been sanded to
    provide a roughed face that has been cleaned of any oil
    or dirt b4 applying epox. this also means removing a layer
    of chrome.
     
  17. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    Just by way of an update, I thought I'd toss in some pics of
    my HF52cc stealth tourer. Yes, the engine really is there behind
    what appears to the right pannier, and yes it is fully operational.
    It has a secondary muffler with reciprocating baffles attached
    to the stock muffler which has been wrapped in fiberglass tape.
    Over the 2nd muffler is a sheet metal cowling which protects the
    functional facade pannier and directs exhaust down and away.
    Though it is considerably quieter than the stock 52 it still makes
    about as much noise as a honda GX25. However if your in a pass-
    ing car with the windows up and the radio on, you'd never know
    I was running under power.
    The trailer was originally single wheel, but reconfigured, it is more
    stable with a shorter T-radius, still only 22" wide, and has loads of
    ground clearance.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 14, 2011
  18. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    Further info on trailer:
    The wheels are attached via seat posts and chain stays from 2 kids bikes
    at garage sale, @5$ ea. The platform is epoxy coated plywd. with sections
    of bike rim at either end. The hitch is a pugeot fork mounted with eyebolts to
    seat post & alum. tubing reiforced to the frame with alum. plate + rad-
    iator hose shock abs.
     
  19. Esteban

    Esteban Active Member

    Looking pretty good. I would suggest getting the load closer to the center of the trailer axle.
     
  20. rawly old

    rawly old Member

    Yeah,
    I suppose that's a thought, but the platform is plenty strong enough for as
    much load as I'd want to pull, and it works well as a wheel barrow this way.
    The hitch swivel is reinforced with alu plate top & bottom and is very strong.
    As for the fork, I'd intentionally prefer it to bend before my chainstays. Even
    so, this would take a pretty serious crash. It tracks fine in tight turns.
    By way of an after thought, having priced all of the single wheel trailers out
    there, it appears to me that it would be a good deal cheaper and relatively
    simple to spend $80 on one of these kid's trailabikes, strip off the handlebars,
    seat, and pedals to build a single wheeler crafted to ones own needs. I've
    seen them for as little as $30 on craigslist.
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2011
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