Frame too big!

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by butch100, May 17, 2010.

  1. butch100

    butch100 Member

    Hi all, just got my 66cc kit today, went to check on how it will fit on my huffy good vibrations beach cruiser, the frame is to wide for the motor, when the rear mount is flush the front mount is still 1.5 inches away, is there an adapter one can buy for this??
     

  2. Lazieboy

    Lazieboy Member

  3. Lazieboy

    Lazieboy Member

    Custom bracket

    Might need to make a custom mounting bracket, or have some welder or Sm. engine mechanic make you one. go thicker than 1/8 or it might snap due to bad vibrations my first two did.
     
  4. butch100

    butch100 Member

    OK, I see, was trying to think of a way without drilling into the bike frames though..
     
  5. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    Don't drill baby don't drill.....
    Short and to the point.
     
  6. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

  7. butch100

    butch100 Member

  8. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    It works so well that I don't ever mount a engine to a frame without one. Either to raise the engine up or for a correct fit. If you go into my picture albums ... http://www.motoredbikes.com/album.php?albumid=892&pictureid=5578 ...you can see where I made a "L" bracket that goes on the right side of the seat tube. The engine can NOT move due to torque. Mounted with a standard muffler clamp. You can tighten the clamp so tight it can and will crush the tube if you are not careful. That is the way they are designed for automotive exhaust systems.
     
  9. butch100

    butch100 Member

    Did you use steel or aluminum to make the motor mount?, is the other l bracket JB welded to the frame??
     
  10. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    I used "angle iron" from a bed frame. It is just the right thickness for strength I wanted. Aluminum would be nice, but if used aluminum I'd have to have it made as I can't make one from steel here at home. The steel I myself can wield. The flat bar came from Lowes, and is the same thickness as the bed railing. The small "L" bracket used to combat engine torque is made from a inexpensive shelf bracket. It is bolted to just the engine. If I had a "New" or fine bike that I didn't want to get scratched, I glue a "small" piece of thin rubber onto the frame itself and have the bracket rest on it.. 6mm studs are to be torqued to 50 inch pounds, this is not (on my frame) enough to have a engine mount tight enough to keep the engine from rotating on the seat tube, so I came up with the "L" bracket. Remember either incorrect engine mounting and or over torquing studs will only lead to broken mounts, stripped stud holes and if you are lucky just a broken stud. Do away with OEM hardware.

    Basically stay away from JB on these bikes, yes it can be good in some applications, but I see it as a repair and not a FIX.
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2010
  11. butch100

    butch100 Member

    hey AL, where did you get a clamp that size? I found a piece of metal to use but the smallest clamp autozone had was 1.5 inches, my down tube is of the small type and the clamp is just too big for a decent fit..
     
  12. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    What you see is a standard 1- 1/2" muffler clamp on a 3/4" tube. Works great. I tried to mount it both ways but found the way I have it here was the best. Just make sure that the front mount bracket is fitted properly, and when clamped it won't be in a bind. A piece 5/16" all thread bent to fit will work, followed with a piece of flat metal aganist the front bracket. 14 gage works quite well and easy to work with.

    Another option. In the picture you will see three "U" bolts I bought...got them from Lowe's.. they might have what you need. If you use one of these I'd discard the flat metal part that comes with it as I don't like the thiness of it, and make your own. I also didn't use this type because I felt the the muffler clamp was made from a better grade of material and could be tighten as much as needed without stripping the threads.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 21, 2010
  13. machiasmort

    machiasmort Active Member

    Made this one out of red oak:
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    That looks just fine, so long as the wood and engine match up, no bind when tightening the nuts on the studs. Actually I thought about wood before making the ones I did. Wood, so much easier to work with. The only problem I looked at was, at what angle would I need to cut a hole or face in a piece of wood. Actually your mount looks better. Way to go.
     
  15. butch100

    butch100 Member

    Great ideas guys!, just waiting for my busy time at work to try one, currently 12 hrs/day!. Thought about wood too as I have no access to a welder.
     
  16. those *u* brackets look pretty nifty were could i buy a couple of those
     
  17. butch100

    butch100 Member

    I think Al said he got 'em at Lowe's. The more I look at machiasmort's solution I think I'll try something in wood first, of course it will need to be a hard wood, no pine...
     
  18. machiasmort

    machiasmort Active Member

    NO PINE!!! LOL! I agree!

    You want the preasure against the grain! See the way mine is? I rough cut it, drilled the holes and fine tunned the U that fits arround the frame tube w/ a dremel "drum sander".

    It's only a block that takes up space... NO SLOP is exceptable here tho...

    I appreciate the compliments!
     
  19. how about a block of aluminum and then use a router?
     
  20. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    If you have the tools to mill it, aluminum would be perfect.
     
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