Friction Roller Slipping Out Of Adjustment?

[5-7HEAVEN]

A forearm on the channel won't work for me because all my friction drives will have an expansion pipe across the engine channel.

Ane like I mentioned before, one relocated support strut and four support rods.

 

[Mountainman]

I know the aluminum slotted strut ends tend to get chewed up.

yes -- have also noticed (slightly) this same problem
thinking about buying some small serrated washers to add
should give a little more grip
and those small pointed spacers are digging into my channel

unit gets stuck sometimes due to quick release spacers causing a rut in channel
tricky to lift of tire

ride that THING

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

I have also noticed the wear and tear on the struts' grooves.

There must be a simple way of locking down the housing. Staton had a single threaded rod for a strut in their earlier friction drive kits. It was not a quick and easy adjustment like the present QR, but it might've been a more positive connection.

 

[SirJakesus]

Maybe you could order two of the old struts and give them a go. I've never had experience with them. Alaskavan?

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

Maybe you could order two of the old struts and give them a go. I've never had experience with them. Alaskavan?

I've been thinking about doing that on the right side.

The pipe is on the left side, so no strut will clear.

 

[SirJakesus]

Would there be room to somehow run the strut up into the inside of the channel on that side maybe? So long as you could make the adjustments and keep everything square on the bike it would work, but again, I haven't used the old style struts. There must be pictures around here somewhere.

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

I don't think so. The control knob seems bulky.

However, it could be mounted on the right, outside of the engine channel. Then the new-style aluminum strut can be mounted inboard on the left-side.

ORRR, the control knob could be replaced with a clevic nut and cotter pin.

Of course, using threaded rod adjustment won't make it quick and easy to raise and lower the engine.

In fact, Staton's rear support rods from the chain drive box could be used for sturdier mounting and adjustments.

Here's a picture: http://www.staton-inc.com/Details.asp?ProductID=2675

Here's Staton's chain-drive supports: http://www.staton-inc.com/Details.asp?ProductID=2933

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

Maybe I'll use this, along with threaded rod: http://www.mcmaster.com/#turnbuckles/=1vml7b

This will replace the slotted aluminum struts that lock the engine channel in place.

Clevises and turnbuckles will lock the friction rollers onto the tire without any chance of slipping out of adjustment. Loosening the clevis and pinning it in a lower hole will raise the engine off the tire.

 

[DetonatorTuning]

try MSC, often 50% or less than McMaster Carr.

steve

 

[SirJakesus]

The staton chain drive supports hold the gearbox up not down... it would require some clever engineering to get them to work as a tension device. Unless of course you were just thinking about slotting them as well?