Break In Fuel gas mixture for break in

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by davidsis, Nov 18, 2006.

  1. davidsis

    davidsis Guest

    does 7oz of oil to one gallon of gas sound about right for break in period. also, is there anything special about the break in period?

  2. try1897

    try1897 Guest

    Hi, My instructions said to run it at 20 to 1 for the first 50 miles I think. Also to take it easy and not run it hard at first. I remember that was very hard for me because I wanted to take off and blast down the street. Actually it worked out well because going slower gave me the time to get used to the bike and learn how it rides and get used to stops and starts and all that kind of thing. I'm an old guy 55 years old and had not been on a bike on a regular basis for quite some time. As I got used to it and it broke in I gradually went faster and faster until nowI ride like a madman most of the time and want a 36 tooth sprocket so it will go faster.Well good luck and be sure not to use outboard two stroke oil. Use regular two stroke oil like for a weed wacker and break it in slow and steady. Save the hotroding for later .......Tom in WV
  3. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    kids will be kids :D

    hey, since i have those low-profile tires, i have the perfect excuse to get the 36'er :twisted:
  4. try1897

    try1897 Guest

    Hey Dog, Here in WV they would say DAWG. Anyhow if you still got the tires in a couple of weeks I'll try um on my bike. For 40 bucks I can't go too wrong. I might have to bend the frame to allow clearance but the overall will be worth it. I think. Tom in WV
  5. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    hiya, davidsis...i see many ideas here about what a break-in should be like for onna these things, as a 1st-time owner, i'm far from expert at this.

    i DO know that the 20:1 mix is very important during break-in & i'm gonna keep using it 'til i feel the power-increase that indicates a decent break-in. i do NOT know how long that'll actually be, however.

    if you love your baby, you'll do the math and accurately measure that pre-mix so's you know it's right.
    example: i use a set of measuring cups/spoons...
    the gas-cup is 1cup/250ml
    one oil-spoon is 1/2tbsp/7.5ml & the other 1tsp/5ml.
    one of each gives me 250:12.5 = 20:1

    Tom in WV: i've posted the tires under "buy/sell/trade"...let's take that convo over there, 'k?
  6. davidsis

    davidsis Guest

    Break in

    My little manual that came with the engine says to break it in for the first 500 miles. This sounds like a crazy high amount of miles. Mybe it is a misprint, and is supposed to be 50 miles. I think it is supposed to say 50 I have been putting in 7oz per gallon. for the break in what should is change to after break in about 5oz?
  7. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    after break-in you want 40:1: 2000ml:50ml or 64oz:1.6oz or 1gal:1bottle*

    *briggs & stratton easy-mix 2-cycle oil 3.2oz <--for the math-challenged, like me :?

    personally, i believe nogoodnic42. i'm on tank #2 starting today (70 miles) & i've switched to 40:1.

    i also did 35mph+ for 6 miles on the way home :twisted:
  8. try1897

    try1897 Guest

    Hi all, I've been using 4oz. to 1 gal regular gas. well it comes in 8 oz bottles so I mix 2 gal at a time and that comes to 32 to 1 I think. Now that I think of it I may go to 40 to one as Augi says. It should run a little better and not oil the exaust quite so much. I don't think it will have any problems and should be allright a little leaner. I ran it at 20 to one for about maybe a tankfull of gas and its a half gallon tank so 100 miles I don't really know exactly. but then I leaned it to 25 to one and then 30 to one on the next two tankfuls . That was about it . It gained power as the gas was leaned out and now runs strong as pit bull. Smurfer helped me get my gaskets right and now I'm happy as a pig in shit. I ride every day but its getting colder. soon it will be too cold and snow and all but I plan to head south and west for the better part of the winter. chow .... Tom in WV
  9. Correct mixture help.

    i am in a bit of a confusion now. can i ask what is the right mixture for the first 50 miles (break in) and that after the break in for a 48cc?? and does the type of syntetic 2 stroke oil changest the ratio of the mixture?
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 17, 2007
  10. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    the new consensus seems to be:

    20:1 dino oil for break-in (until you feel the rings seat)

    25:1 dino or synthetic blend after (for engines with bushings)

    my opinion...32:1 is prolly ok with roller-bearings, i'll be trying it as soon as i get the roller-bearing engine back on my bike.
  11. Break It-in like you Love it.

    I ran my First 70cc for a break-in period of 200 miles and went to a 40 to 1 ratio and it's piston and rings self destructed, learned that more oil means less power , but longer life. Faster is not a better thing. This is not a crotch- rocket. Slow and steady...gets you there Freddie.
  12. wayde

    wayde Guest

    i ask how do i know if i have roller bearings or bushings with out taking the motor apart
  13. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    ask the seller.

    your "f80" (65cc) very likely has bushings...
  14. wayde

    wayde Guest

    i've tried to contact the seller with no response
  15. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    i'm fairly certain i'm correct, i haven't heard a thing about (cough!) "80"'s with bearings yet.

    personally, from hard experience, i recommend you use 25:1.
  16. atcspaul

    atcspaul Guest

  17. my 49cc seller told me to break-in using 16:1 silkolene (scoot 2) low-smoke semi-syntetic oil. and after break-in 20:1. thay's a lot of oil but till now i'm not having any problems and the break-in nearly finished. The only problem is that the rear of my bike is becoming black with the burned oil :(
    If you have any comments about the mixture please pass them on. 10x
  18. alesterfeind

    alesterfeind Guest

    I had a a couple large black globs of oil drop down on my frame under the engine sprocket area. Probably the size of a piece of chewed gum. Not sure if that was from the engine or the chain oil build up under the sprocket housing. Anyone else have that happen? I was wondering where all the unburned oil goes.
  19. ChrisHill

    ChrisHill Guest

    In my opinion...

    and with having built over 40 bikes that are still up and running great (some with 1000's of km's on them), I would have to say that your best bet for a break-in mix is between the 16:1 - 20:1 point.
    After 500 km's (my engines) lean it out to 25:1, or at the most 30:1...if you do normal putting around (35-50 km/h, no more than about 3/4 throttle for the most part of your riding).
    If you do a lot of WOT (not recommended on any type of engine) or heavy trailer pulling keep your oil at the 20:1 - 25:1 ratio.
    This will help you to help your engine live a long life.

    I would have to say NEVER use a synthetic or even semi-synthetic oil for your break-in period...NEVER. You will not allow the engine components to seat properly and will likely lead to an early grave for your engine.

    Also, just because someone had mentioned it NOT use a regular 2-stroke oil like you would for a chainsaw or weedwacker. You will get a lot more carbon build up with those lower grade of oils.

    You should use a quality, low-ash, high flash-point, 2-stroke oil formulated specifically for air cooled 2-stroke motorcycles.

    There, that's my two cents's nice to have some time to get on here and do some writing, lol.
  20. ChrisHill

    ChrisHill Guest

    Is your carb leaking at all?
    Are your rear mount studs tight in the engine block?

    If your carb is leaking (even a little) and the fuel gets down and behind your rear mounting block it can and will eventually run out and will be black from sitting with the aluminum. This would give you the black looking oil down your seat tube and around the crankset. Best remedy is to fix the leaky carb, and keep your fuel shut off when the bike isn't in use.

    If it's leaking out of your mounting studs, you should tighten them up...maybe even give a small squirt of some "copper" permatec in the stud holes. I have had other engines brought in for me to fix that had the stud holes drilled in to deeply which created a small hole in the block. Both, from other manufacturers as well as people who have snapped the studs, then tried to drill and tap new holes. Fixing this will help a poor running engine to behave a little better as well.