GEBE 35cc Throttle Problem! Please help!

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by bumwaiter, Jun 21, 2008.

  1. bumwaiter

    bumwaiter New Member

    I have a Robin/Subaru 35cc engine from Golden Eagle. I love it dearly, however, when I start the engine, instead of idling, the engine revs almost as if I had the throttle fully engaged. It engages the belt drive right after I start it with the pull cord.

    The cord isn't tangled, I wonder if I banged something loose. Anyone else have this problem?

    Please help, any suggestion or wisdom would be much appreciated.
     

  2. augidog

    augidog Banned

    ...does it settle down after it starts or stay at a high idle? have you physically adjusted the idle down?
     
  3. bumwaiter

    bumwaiter New Member

    adjustments

    it goes to high directly after i start it, maybe a 1 second delay from when I pull the pull cord. It stays on high and sounds like its really straining, so I turn it off.

    The GEBE website says not to touch the idle screw. It says to adjust the barrel nut and the lock nut that run close to the carberator.

    I really don't know too much about engine maintenance, this is why this problem is such a challeng.e
     
  4. augidog

    augidog Banned

    so...let's start checking things, including the idle if we have to. something's wrong & we can't limit our troubleshooting options. if it idled fine before & now it doesn't, i have some ideas. look at the throttle-plate on the carby, is it fully-returned and resting on the idle screw? is the cable-end maybe stuck on the end of the barrel-adjuster instead of seated inside? turn the bars back and forth and see if the throttle-cable is traveling or tugging on the throttle.

    for a "workstand" i put the bike on it's kickstand, stand on the left-side, lean the bike into me until it's on the front wheel and the kickstand, rear-wheel off the ground. lefthand on throttle, righthand to start & make adjustments. it's a good idea to have a functioning killswitch when doing this stuff.
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2008
  5. bumwaiter

    bumwaiter New Member

  6. augidog

    augidog Banned

    that's the reference page we're using

    and i'm trying to help you figure it out...see my post above...and let me know the answers so we can move forward.
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2008
  7. bumwaiter

    bumwaiter New Member

    the housing on the cable slips out of the barrel nut, and when i put it back in place it gives more slack to the throttle cable.

    i believe the throttle plate is where it is supposed to be. the throttle wasnt returning to its normal position fully, but i have adjusted it back to where it was.
     
  8. augidog

    augidog Banned

    ok...let's use the barrel to get the slack out of the cable-housing, but NOT to apply any pull on the throttle plate. when you have that adjustment finished, let's look at the position of everything again.
     
  9. augidog

    augidog Banned

    i'm headin' for ride & bbq...i'll check in when i get home.
     
  10. bumwaiter

    bumwaiter New Member

    adjusted the idle screw and everything works fine.

    however I believe both the throttle cable and idle screw are still not perfect.

    how do I adjust both so they are perfect?
     
  11. augidog

    augidog Banned

    one step at a time...so the idle's set at the moment, so you should be able to...

    1: check the routing of the cable, make sure it's not binding and creeping when you turn the bars.

    2: use the barrel/locknut to take up (only) the slack in the housing.

    3: check throttle lever & plate for full travel from sitting on the idle-screw to full-open. watch for housing slack/movement.

    4: lock barrel, double-check for full throttle travel & no cable-housing movement.

    5: start the engine and check idle, if that's ok, check performance thru full throttle, if that's ok...

    you should be good to go...lemme know.
     
  12. mark2yahu

    mark2yahu Member

    solution maybe

    bumwaiter, i had the same problem. it is probably because (pardon me if you did not) you have the throttle cable all tie-wrapped down on the frame.

    The throttle cable has to stay relatively loose, or it will pull on the throttle and cause the engine to idle high and engage the clutch and the wheel starts turning.

    I'm sure you already backed off that idle adjust screw. That's good; as I've found the engine can't idle too low anyway.

    I hope this helps.
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2008
  13. augidog

    augidog Banned

    yes, most utility engine throttles i've seen won't actually bottom out anyway.

    thanks for pitching in :cool:
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2008
  14. mark2yahu

    mark2yahu Member

    I'm stumped. I don't know what else it could be, augidog :-|
     
  15. augidog

    augidog Banned

    well, since we're not hearing anything more, i'm gonna guess he found out that's what it was :)
     
  16. JemmaUK

    JemmaUK Guest

    I have had something similar on the 32cc..

    It seems that the cable is a little short and pulling it straight means a pull on the throttle arm on the carb which means more revs.

    In the case of mine I just turn the frontwheel inboard on the side of the throttle (in this case LHS) and the revs drop to a low idle, in the middle its fine, turn right and its about 1/4 open throttle.

    Regards the idling i have adjusted it down so with the wheel to the left by sound I am reckoning maybe 1500rpm idle - just off the point where it starts to complain and 4-stroke. It doesnt seem to cause a problem and its a lot nicer on the ear that way.

    The only way of solving this is to have a longer throttle cable. I have to say I didnt have this problem on 'Anita'. But then that was a Zenoah engine on a MB frame with straight bars..

    Jemma xx

    PS: on the autocycles.co.uk there is a !!brand new!! winged wheel going begging for what seems a fairly reasonable price..
     
  17. Zev0

    Zev0 Member

    The cable not being long enough seems to be an inherent problem with the cruiser type bike. Mine is not quite long enough either, but I make do. I just can't route it the way I'd like, but it is workable. Another 6 inches maybe would be fine.
     
  18. sensationpdx

    sensationpdx Member

    I will just chime in and say that My GEBE 32 Tanaka did the same thing and it was because I had my throttle cable strapped too tight onto the frame of the bike and the curves were too sharp. I have also turned down the idle screw to provent clutch chatter at idle.
     
  19. stevetroyer

    stevetroyer Guest

    Have you ckecked?

    Is your throttle cable long enough or hung up somewhere?

    Sound as if your throttle is open due to sticking of some type. Check your cable, then the throttle arm. Sometimes the throttle cable will stick at the throttle arm. I like to add a little graphite to the cable to keep it from sticking.

    If it isn't that, then it could be the throttle plate inside the carb. It may be sticking. check for any burrs in the throat.
     
  20. bumwaiter

    bumwaiter New Member

    once i turned the idle screw, the idle stopped revving. the cable tension seems fine, but i adjusted it blindly and don't think its perfect, but its working great.

    my main concern is it that the idle doesn't sound like it did straight out of the box, and i wish it did. ive been (excuse the pun) screwing around with the idle screw, but because I know so little about mechanics and engines its all just blind repairs. i don't know what i'm doing.

    the throttle cable is very lightly taped to the bike. thank you all so much for the replies. i welcome any and all insights and comments. i'm going for a ride, after i adjust the idle screw.
     
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