GEBE And Friction Drive Combination

Excellent link, vegas!

I found that $10 pulley, ANNND an $11 belt!

That's a $29 savings.

I ordered a GEBE drive ring tonight.

So my prototype might cost me about $85. That's freaking awesome! :geek:

vegas, can you tell me which 15t pulley you bought on that side? What size bore diameter?
 
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"you want 5mm pitch HTD X 9MM wide belt applications.

i'm going to use the full alum. piece with hub and tap it just like i did the poly one. i considered the "fairlock" but i don't think you could count on that alone and if you thread it anyway the lock is just redundant".

quoted from a private message DT had sent me about 2 years ago. I think DT even rang the plastic ones for awhile because they were cheap and perfect for R&Development.

Just remember to turn the buying browser to mms on the sdpi website. I will have a look in the garage tomorrow, i think i came across that cog the other day cleaning up my gear and will send a pic just to show you which you it is.

when you fill out the brackets at the top of the columns it narrows your choices down to the drive gears available.

start by turning to mm.
set pitch to 5mm
No. of groves (used 15 caused we wanted more speed) 13 is standard on GEBE
2 flanges with hub

and that should do it for you, will take pic tomorrow.
 
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vegas, thanks for that very important tip!

tanaka, is that idler bearing a belt tensioner? I was gonna use adjustable rear support struts to tighten the belt. These are all-thread with locknuts, instead of BMP/Staton aluminum flat struts.
 
Idler Bearing

The idler bearing is the most important part of the system to keep the proper tension on the belt. Look closely at the GEBE system and you can see the idler on the slack side of the belt.
 
hi 5-7,

here,s pictures as promised, the gear on the left is the GEBE 14 tooth, the right the 15 tooth bought from spd-si. I never even tried the 14 tooth as i was able to do 34 mph on the 13 nut and on the bike back then, it was scary...new and improved coming sometime in the next century i hope !!!!!

IMG_2073.jpg

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Biggest difference is that the outsourced part has to be threaded to work with the gebe setup.... No biggie....

this is a good post about the workings of the tension belt pulley, and give you good direction in putting one together for yourself

http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=22010

Best wishes VP...
 
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Thanks for pics, links and suggestions, vegas and tanaka.

I've located a few appropriately sized pulleys, but their bore diameter needs to be increased to 1/2". Unsure if hub diameter can support a larger bore.

I'll first try to adjust the rear supports to regulate belt tension. If that doesn't do the trick, a belt tensioner will be fabbed.

FWIW, GEBE uses their tensioner instead of an adjustable engine mount.
 
If that doesn't do the trick, a belt tensioner will be fabbed.FWIW, GEBE uses their tensioner instead of an adjustable engine mount.

Well, the tensioner keeps the belt at the proper tension just like a chain. If the proper tension is not maintained, the belt will fail !!:cool:
 
The struts' leverage SHOULD apply a lot of pressure on the pulleys' contact surfaces. Time will tell if it'll work.

I have a used Staton hub w/12g spokes and HD rim. That should be strong enough to transmit power.

My first test engine will be a 2.2hp Mitsubishi engine. It's been very dependable, except for a chattering clutch ever since new.

Maybe I'll also need a pair of struts at the friction housing's pivot points. That should be easy enough to fab, using extra BMP aluminum struts and coaster brake lever clamps to secure the struts to the frame stays.:geek:
 
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