GEBE I'm Ready to do this.....help?

B

BTB Wild

Guest
I like the GEBE Robin/S 35cc kit as one of two I'm considering. Attached is a pic of my bike ( and I have all specs). Does anyone forsee any issues problems with the install. Are the wheel/spoke specs sufficient enough to use the stock wheel? The wheel is a Syncros Big Box w/ stainless steel 14 gauge spokes ( 32 spoke) brass nipples and tire size is 26X1.95" Intend to get trail gearing. I don't want to drill new holes if it can be avoided.
I'd like to get a kit installed soon! Thanks for the help!
 

Attachments

  • 2003-GT-iDrive-3.0-bikes.jpg
    2003-GT-iDrive-3.0-bikes.jpg
    43.8 KB · Views: 419
I don't run Gebe, but I do read. I think you will have two concerns. 1) The Gebe mount is not supposed to be used (perhaps can't be used) with a quick release axle. Might be able to frame mount it. Check out Bama's posts. 2) The spokes may not hold up. Check out Bama's posts.
 
Thanks, GEBE told me I can swap out the axle no problem. If the spokes are an issue I'll have to consider a wheel upgrade. I'm also considering a chain drive unit from Staton. Is free pedaling a feature shared between the two systems? Is there more drag with a chain unit? Thanks
 
btb

Ready to help, but consider the Tanaka33 before committing, the shipment is due to arrive within a week I hear....

Plus is the tank location and "possibility" of larger fuel tank replacement (1.5liters/50 oz.) Power is probably MORE than the 35, because you can operate wide open for a half hour if need be.

Minus is mixing gas/oil, but it is EASY to get the hang of that. Im heading to the County Seat, 25 miles away, this morn.

Stashed behind the weeds, near the big log with the mossy bump, on a backroad rarely traveled, is a 1/2 gallon of gas I stashed there 2 weeks ago.

My own fillup station.

Bike looks good, spokes should work, think about punctureproof tube on the back, a $10 investment that may save $50 in aggravation.

If you go with the R/S, read Sam/Starr/Lars/Petes advise....

Learn "framemounting", THAT IDEA IS A WINNER AND A HALF !
 
Framemounting should make the present wheel okay, you just have to take care on the spoke-ring install, which isn't that big of a deal when you read how it's done.

GEBE pedaling is barely noticable with the belt tensioner engaged.

Reserving my Staton opinion at present...
 
Yeah, GEBE told me those Tanakas were due to arrive.....I considered the fuel and fuel tank issues and it seems like a trade-off either way. Mixing is no problem and I could carry a spare gas bottle if necessary so I'll definately look into the 2 stroke.
My other thought is this.....bicycles are relatively cheap ( well...not my GT anyway) I thought about purchasing a budget bike that would accept these kits with minimal modification and hassle. So I'd be happy to look into full suspension models ( and maybe hard tails with a nicer seat) that would install in a breeze. I don't want to Frankenstein the GT to the point where I'm spending money to undo the original bike just to accomodate the engine. I'd say $200-250 range is not unreasonable. Thanks again. You guys are great here.
 
Gebe has a photo gallery/testimonials section with many bikes of that type (full suspension) and the folks who have them seem satisfied. I have the 40 tanaka and love it but if I buy another one , it will be the 33 tanaka... better gas mileage with much the same performance and mph.
 
Yeah, GEBE told me those Tanakas were due to arrive.....I considered the fuel and fuel tank issues and it seems like a trade-off either way. Mixing is no problem and I could carry a spare gas bottle if necessary so I'll definately look into the 2 stroke.
My other thought is this.....bicycles are relatively cheap ( well...not my GT anyway) I thought about purchasing a budget bike that would accept these kits with minimal modification and hassle. So I'd be happy to look into full suspension models ( and maybe hard tails with a nicer seat) that would install in a breeze. I don't want to Frankenstein the GT to the point where I'm spending money to undo the original bike just to accomodate the engine. I'd say $200-250 range is not unreasonable. Thanks again. You guys are great here.

I think you are being VERY wise in this decision.

Random ideas (sorry to knock out a lot of things in one post, but best to fill the plate when serving food for thought)

One thing about suspension on the rear. You can just about duplicate the "feel" with a $20 shock absorber seat post. It has an Allen's screw on the bottom, you can adjust from "soft" to "firm". Rear suspension puts extra stress on the "mount strap", the thick band GEBE sends to keep the motor mount attached to the bike.

The stress using rear suspension CAN be overcome, of course. Loktight on the connection bolt, zip ties for extra security. But phat cruisers with no suspension will do nearly everything a mountain bike will...

And on front suspensions, unless you do some adaptations or reinforcements to the legs of a basket/rack, those two legs will bend. Quick release fronts also have some "basket issues".

On a non-suspension bike, baskets or front racks cause no problems.

Reading MB.com, you have a good idea what your future plans/additions would be, picking a 50 pound aluminum cruiser with 7 speeds or 21 speeds, with 1.95-2.125 inch tires, probably gives you the MOST adaptability.

Once you use a 12" gel saddle, you'll never go back !!

I emphasize curved handlebars because you can sort of sit back, instead of feeling you are leaning "over" the front wheel.

Craigslist in you area might have some cruisers at a bargain. If it has FULL FENDERS, you will have to drimel away some metal so the belt can pass thru, or switch the fender out with a half fender. (Or discard the rear fender altogether).

If you have time to look in bikeshops, Sun brands are pretty much Generic Schwinns and Diamondbacks.

However, with the 12gauge steel wheel on the rear, then mirror/bottlecarrier...you are bumping $275.

Sun Retro Alum 7's were the ones I found with half fenders which were easy to work with, no drimel needed. You can get a cruiser without fenders, then add them later.

If that bike shop has a Sun Comfort Rover, I just took the Greygeezer 50 miles roundtrip today, pretty comfortable.
 
Last edited:
Bama, tons of great info to digest... and I appreciate all the feedback you guys offer to us newbies. Although the engine to drive wheel distance remains a constant ( with GEBE mount) I realized right away that the engine would push/pull against the strap ( on my full suspension) ....eventually loosening or breaking. An issue that can be resolved with a modified strap, maybe involving a spring etc. I'm pretty certain I want to maintain front suspension however. I will check out those bikes you mentioned.
I was in Walmart today and saw dozens of cheap bikes. They all " look" great and the prices were laughable. $69-$139 price range. I think I'll need to do alittle better quality wise.:LOL:
So far I'm stearing toward the 35cc Tanaka GEBE kit. My GT rides soooo nice
that I'm tempted not to mess with it. But I have no will power so we'll see what my research bears out. I'll report back and thanks.
 
As far as the front suspension, I think Bama's real concern was if you're going to attach a basket or rack to the front. I have front suspension, and would advise that you want a good unit, and should keep a close eye on it. You don't want the front end getting squirrely on you at 30+.
As far as the rear suspension, you'd want the motor attached as firmly as possible. If you ride at all conservatively, you probably won't have any problem. I don't have rear suspension, but unless you're as crazy as I am, I doubt you'd give the mounts as much abuse as I give mine. I would recomend adding extra struts. Have you checked for clearance for the drive ring? It might be pretty hard to alter that frame if it doesn't have clearance.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Back
Top