Gebe service hanger

Discussion in 'Rack Mounted Engines' started by psmcd, Aug 17, 2008.

  1. psmcd

    psmcd Member

    Hey friends, I've tried suspending engine weight from overhead independent of bike on rack and found it too noodly/unstable. Wheel bearings are a bit funky on my old 83 Stumpjumper and I haven't yet replaced them or built my independent of axle Gebe mount yet so this is best effort yet for repeated rear wheel removal.

    Lash a broomstick or ski pole to handlebar stem and seat then use another tie to hang engine weight to allow wheel removal.

    Attached Files:

  2. stude13

    stude13 Active Member

    hi ps; that is a neat idea. if your lower legs can be attached to dropouts you pole wouldent be needed.
  3. psmcd

    psmcd Member

    dropout mount

    That's where I'm headed. Sooner the better cause axle mount is a pain but I understand Gebe's approach as universal. My bike has sturdy rack mounts and they will be employed soon but the experience of fooling with the axle mount and seeing how slight variations affects belt tracking has been worthwhile. The rack mount may require an oblong or slotted hole, at least on one side, to allow for belt tracking adjustments. I haven't noticed in others threads on their custom mounts whether they made allowance for tracking adjustments.

    But now I must go ride, mods later. Happy trails.
  4. stude13

    stude13 Active Member

    yes, i think you need to build in some wiggle room.
  5. vegaspaddy

    vegaspaddy Member

    hi pcmcd,

    i recently frame mounted my setup, and it is the difference between night and day when working on the rear wheel, bike etc. AS far as allowing for belt varations,so long as you stick to the instructions some of our fellow builders showed us the belt will be perfect first time. Making the mounting holes slighty slotted sounds like a good idea, easy adjustments etc.

    THis was the easiest method i found and worked first time, which was a major event on my part !!!!

    I could turn the engine 180 degrees on the mount and the belt allignment would still be perfect, something i could never quite manage when attached to the rear axle.

    The pic says it all, just measure, measure and measure again and it is easy enough. The most important hole is were the new bolts attach to the plate, this is acting as your new axle so they have to be dead center with each other, otherwise the mount will be off. The compass method works perfect for this. Also a good quality drill bit will make sure you dont have any mishaps first time round.

    GOOD LUCK with the tinkerings because once you start, they are never ending !!!!!
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2008
  6. JemmaUK

    JemmaUK Guest

    Or you could use the simple method of upping the seat a little and turning the bike upside down.. all I do is make sure that the motor is off the hub bolts but resting on the ground and make the relevant changes or do whatever I need to..

    White tires are the next change :D

    I have to say though, that the idea you've had is a great one if you are using a bike stand (which I dont have).

    Jemma xx
  7. Happy Valley

    Happy Valley Active Member

    Hey pcmcd.

    Just picked up a Stumpjumper earlier this summer, a genuine barn find for a ridiculously low price.
    Yup, '83, lugged frame, biplane fork.

    I just put in about untold hours in a complete frame stripped over-haul. It is sound but was neglected and really grungy. Everythings working real fine now, like clockwork. Only thing I need is the hard to find original type DiaCompe brake pads.

    happy riding!