AndyT
Member
I have had my GEBE Tanaka 32 kit for a few months. I have really enjoyed it, and have no regrets. I have it mounted on a Novara Metro (from REI) and have run about 2 gallons of fuel through it, and only noticed some problems after the 1st gallon.
I was having trouble with the tension arm jumping when I accelerate or climb a hill. I also noticed that my drive ring was moving around on the 14ga spokes. After calling Julia at GEBE, I super glued the spoke ring after truing it up, and this helped, but the tension arm was still hopping like mad under power. I added a smaller 18# spring along with the stock one and this helped get the arm under control, but I still felt it "hop" occasionally under power.
I also noticed that when starting the engine, the whole rack mount was moving around. Everything was tight, so I just thought that was how it should be. Also when revving the engine while holding the wheel off the ground, I could see the belt moving around on the gear. I thought that this was due to the mount flexing, and decided to look into the issue.
I took the engine off today to get a better idea of what was happening. I pushed around on the lower mount strap, and found it pretty easy to move side to side. When I installed the kit, I added some steel spacer washers to keep the strap away from the paint on my new bike. This kept the strap from seating against the dropout (where the rear axle goes). I found that removing the washers and having the strap tight against the dropout makes a big difference in the stiffness of the mount strap. I do not recommend using any spacers washers at all, not even to help with gear alignment. Use the "tweaking" method on the GEBE site for alignment instead.
Next, I took a hard look at the tension arm. In my mind there is one flaw that is easily fixed. My arm never seemed to operate smoothly. I made sure that the retaining nut was loose so it wouldn't bind, but it always felt somewhat sticky. I tried using dry lubricant spray and synthetic grease to lubricate it, and while it helped, it still wasn't smooth. In this application, you have two plated steel surfaces acting as a bearing. This is not ideal, and contributes to the stickiness that was causes the tension arm to hang up, instead of tracking right along and following the the belt.
I removed the tension spring and the arm, carefully put the arm in a vise and got it as flat as possible. I then cleaned off all of the grease from the surfaces. When reassembling, I added a 1/16" thick nylon washer (found it at my local hardware store), with a 1-1/4" outer diameter and a 1/4" diameter through hole. I put the nylon washer on the the tension arm bolt before putting the arm in place. I then added a steel fender washer with the same dimensions, then threaded the 1/4" locking nut in place. I left it just loose enough to move freely. The large washers stabilize the arm, but allow it to move very easily. I then sprayed it with dry lube. Do not use grease or oil! The dry lube will not attract dirt and won't get sticky. The nylon washer acts as a new bearing surface, and makes a big difference. I installed just the original tension spring and left the extra spring I was using off.
Making the above mod will move your arm 1/16" away from the engine mount. This puts the arm closer to the belt when engaged, but it doesn't touch the belt at all on my setup, so it will not cause any damage. The bearings on the arm work just fine as well, and they will track the belt perfectly. If you try this, make sure you check belt clearance after assembly. Having your tension arm rubbing on the belt is very bad!
I did a test run, and my tension arm/belt jump problem is solved. The arm tracks right along with the belt, and I don't feel a hint of jumping or skipping.
When starting and revving the engine, the mount is definitely more solid and flexes less. Having the strap rest against the dropouts instead of resting on steel washers, makes a noticeable difference. It feels more solid when riding as well, and helps the belt track better.
One pic is worth a thousand words! See attached pics:
I was having trouble with the tension arm jumping when I accelerate or climb a hill. I also noticed that my drive ring was moving around on the 14ga spokes. After calling Julia at GEBE, I super glued the spoke ring after truing it up, and this helped, but the tension arm was still hopping like mad under power. I added a smaller 18# spring along with the stock one and this helped get the arm under control, but I still felt it "hop" occasionally under power.
I also noticed that when starting the engine, the whole rack mount was moving around. Everything was tight, so I just thought that was how it should be. Also when revving the engine while holding the wheel off the ground, I could see the belt moving around on the gear. I thought that this was due to the mount flexing, and decided to look into the issue.
I took the engine off today to get a better idea of what was happening. I pushed around on the lower mount strap, and found it pretty easy to move side to side. When I installed the kit, I added some steel spacer washers to keep the strap away from the paint on my new bike. This kept the strap from seating against the dropout (where the rear axle goes). I found that removing the washers and having the strap tight against the dropout makes a big difference in the stiffness of the mount strap. I do not recommend using any spacers washers at all, not even to help with gear alignment. Use the "tweaking" method on the GEBE site for alignment instead.
Next, I took a hard look at the tension arm. In my mind there is one flaw that is easily fixed. My arm never seemed to operate smoothly. I made sure that the retaining nut was loose so it wouldn't bind, but it always felt somewhat sticky. I tried using dry lubricant spray and synthetic grease to lubricate it, and while it helped, it still wasn't smooth. In this application, you have two plated steel surfaces acting as a bearing. This is not ideal, and contributes to the stickiness that was causes the tension arm to hang up, instead of tracking right along and following the the belt.
I removed the tension spring and the arm, carefully put the arm in a vise and got it as flat as possible. I then cleaned off all of the grease from the surfaces. When reassembling, I added a 1/16" thick nylon washer (found it at my local hardware store), with a 1-1/4" outer diameter and a 1/4" diameter through hole. I put the nylon washer on the the tension arm bolt before putting the arm in place. I then added a steel fender washer with the same dimensions, then threaded the 1/4" locking nut in place. I left it just loose enough to move freely. The large washers stabilize the arm, but allow it to move very easily. I then sprayed it with dry lube. Do not use grease or oil! The dry lube will not attract dirt and won't get sticky. The nylon washer acts as a new bearing surface, and makes a big difference. I installed just the original tension spring and left the extra spring I was using off.
Making the above mod will move your arm 1/16" away from the engine mount. This puts the arm closer to the belt when engaged, but it doesn't touch the belt at all on my setup, so it will not cause any damage. The bearings on the arm work just fine as well, and they will track the belt perfectly. If you try this, make sure you check belt clearance after assembly. Having your tension arm rubbing on the belt is very bad!
I did a test run, and my tension arm/belt jump problem is solved. The arm tracks right along with the belt, and I don't feel a hint of jumping or skipping.
When starting and revving the engine, the mount is definitely more solid and flexes less. Having the strap rest against the dropouts instead of resting on steel washers, makes a noticeable difference. It feels more solid when riding as well, and helps the belt track better.
One pic is worth a thousand words! See attached pics: