Wheels Good deal for set of steel wheels

Discussion in 'Bicycle Repair' started by Fletch, Nov 14, 2010.

  1. Fletch

    Fletch Member

    If anyone is looking for a new set of steel wheels, I bought these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AO5FEC/ref=oss_product

    I haven't got the engine running on it yet, but the difference between the steel and aluminum is night and day. They are much heavier duty and the bike has a more solid feel when riding than before...Probably a bit more bumpy, but at least I don't have to worry about hitting a pot-hole and bending a rim. They look good with my all black bike with black fenders too. Hopefully they'll hold up.

  2. dash

    dash Member

    do you know what guage the spokes are and what rear hub is on it
  3. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    spokes are 14 guage
    (says so at bottom of ad)
  4. Turtle Tedd

    Turtle Tedd Member

    Good heavy duty steel wheels are the way to go on these MBs...cheep thin wall aluminumn front wheel on mine colapsed and almost did me in
  5. Fletch

    Fletch Member

    I tossed those wheels because some spokes broke and I was sick of a coaster brake. I decided to invest in some good wheels and got some mavic ex-721 mountain bike rims and good sealed bearing freewheel hubs. Those rims are double walled and really **** strong! I feel much better at high speeds and going over holes now.
  6. retromike3

    retromike3 Member

    Steel not always the best thing

    I think that the main problem with steel wheels is the fact that they don't stop very well. it is harder for your brake pads to get a "grip" on those rims than a good set of alloy rims. I would also check weather the spokes were strait pull or weather they have a cross in them.The spoke should tuck under the last spoke it crosses before it touches the rim. This will make a big difference in the life of the wheel.

    I have been known to pay more for my spokes for one set of wheels then what those wheels cost. You usually get what you pay for in that kind of set up and wheels are worth just a bit more for security.

    just my two cents

    mike Frye
  7. Fletch

    Fletch Member


    What about truing the rim after you put the sprocket on? I did that with these new wheels but I feel uneasy about it. After I did that I had to make adjustments to the sprocket bolts because the chain was popping in one place.

    So the sprocket threw the rim out of true, I trued the rim, then adjusted the sprocket while on the bike. I am going to have the wheel off tomorrow to put a freewheel sprocket on. If I put the wheel in the truing stand and it isn't true, I don't want to get stuck in this cycle of rim, sprocket, rim, sprocket. See I know that the sprocket can pull the rim out of true, but I don't know if it works the other way around? I basically don't like to mess with the spokes because I'm not sure of my truing competence. I can get it true, but I'm not sure if I'm doing it the best way or evenly. I don't want to throw the rim out of round in the process of truing it side to side. I hope all that makes sense because I'm kinda rambling.
  8. retromike3

    retromike3 Member

    I feel your pain

    I had similar problems myself, so I built up a set of wheels that had a six bolt disk brake mount and got a adapter for my bike. he called it a "tophat" adapter and it worked OK but I did have to helecoil a few of the bolts because they stripped out.

    I think the thing your going to need do is mount the drive ring first and make sure its right were you need it to be and then true your wheel on a stand because the drive cog will change the spoke tension.

    A good place to check your technique is the late Gilbert Seldon's web-sight I don't have a link but he was the man.

    Then give the bike a good ride around the block and listen to the spokes go "ting" and set into place. then take it off the bike a last time and re-true it. It should hold.

    good luck,
    Mike (A.K.A. Frye Bikes)
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2011
  9. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    FurryOnTheInside likes this.
  10. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Member

    Wow. Well, if you're dealing with a stock ragjoint sprocket setup, I'd buy in bulk. That's dirt cheap!
  11. Fletch

    Fletch Member

    When I had my new rims threaded at the bike shop, the guy said that 14g was fine because they were high quality spokes $1.00 each. He knew they were for a motorized bike too. Would good quality 14g spokes be as good or better than 12g spokes? My wheels only have 32 spokes as well.
  12. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Member

    More variables in that equation than what you told us Fletch.

    This is too general of information. "Rims threaded"(are both 32, do you mean laced, is it a bored out rim, steel, aluminum, width, brand, tires, psi, etc), "High Quality = 1$" (aluminum, steel, cost of spoke and nipple or just spoke, brand name).

    Is it rag joint, disc brake, hybriped, threaded?

    I couldn't say myself, but talk to a wheel guy and he'd be able to on this one, but what's the lacing pattern? That's gonna make a difference.

    Also, what kind of rim, what "kind" of spokes? Are your spokes tapered at different points?

    Does your bike repair man have a motorized bike? Lets be honest - he's got spandex in his fanny pack. :D I kid, but I digress. Unless he's a motorized rider, he doesn't know what's best for you, and unless he knows what your sprocket setup is, he can't say for sure what setup is going to be best for you. He very well could have just been doing a simple style build and needing to make that sale for the month.

    I've seen people who are hardcore about one way or the other. There's just different qualities about each G. Less tension, More tension, More strength, Less Strength, More maintenance, Less maintenance... Depends on all those variables as to what your build's qualities are.

    If I gave you a flat out answer, I'd be lying to you. It wouldn't even be an opinion, as without knowing more info, it's not even an educated guess.
  13. Hey, has anyone tried out those Velocity wheels with the 105 guage spokes from GEBE?
  14. retromike3

    retromike3 Member

    velocity rims

    I built a pair of deep dish Velocity rims with old school Campy hubs but I haven't got a bike to set them up with yet. If their like the ones I set up they are a really good set of hoops.

    As for spokes the main thing is how well the wheel is built. I have seen some super strong wheels built with very light gage spoke. double butted 14-16 with super light sew up rims that were able to take thousands of miles of world class racing(different time different job) and I have seen some "super strong" wheels fall apart after a few hours of riding.

    I crashed one of my old road bikes up on the hill and the first thing I did when I got up out of the ditch was to spin the front wheel, it was true but the forks and the frame were bent. I kept that pair of wheels for years after that.

    To me wheel building is a art, you never get to the point were you can't do a better job I have been doing it for a long time and I am still learning.

  15. I'm not even going to try the art myself...lol. The drive ring on the GEBE system tends to flex lighter guage spokes when applying or releasing torque from the engine. And when you bend a piece of steel back and fourth enough times....time to replace yet another spoke! arrrrrg. I hate that job! I have some 10 guage spokes that "The Wheelmaster" laced together with my rim and hub for me over three years ago, but the hub is shot now. I'm thinking the 105 guage are just slightly thinner than the 10 guage. (105 is the size of the thickest string on my bass guitar..lol). I was just wondering if anyone has actually tried out the Velocity rear wheels with the 105's on them as offered from GEBE.
  16. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Member

    Well, the thicker the spoke, the less vibration dampening there is. That's going to lead to broken spokes and certain spokes to start backing out causing your tire to just get wobbly.

    ESPECIALLY when you're using the stock ragjoint kit for the inframe HT motors.
  17. Yeah..I'm referring to a Golden Eagle Rackmount kit. Oddly enough, after well over 3 years, I've had no trouble with my setup....except a worn out set of cone and cup bearings. The spokes performed very well. Still true and round, (after having to straighten the rim a couple times). With the stock 14 guage spokes, I had nothing but problems...spoke breakage in particular. I'm just considering replacing the back wheel with the Velocity w/105 guage spokes, (recommended by GEBE), and was asking if anyone has tried one. ;)
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 25, 2011
  18. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Member

    Hopefully wheelmaster comes across this thread, given his forte I'm sure he's got at least an educated opinion on them.
  19. retromike3

    retromike3 Member

    I went a different route

    I used a Shimano six bolt disk hub and got an adapter and drive ring from Kings Cycle. It's an expensive way to go, But I don't brake spokes.

    It took him a long time to ship it (maybe I was just too inpatient) but when it showed up it worked since then. I also went with a slightly smaller cog, a 36 instead of a 44, so it goes a little faster:devilish:.

    Since there is nothing touching the spokes I think it makes for a stronger wheel.
  20. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Member

    I've killed many back wheels, and in every case it's always been due to the ragjoint setup. Every broken spoke has always been on the drive sprocket side, not a single one has ever broken on the pedal chain side. I've only been using my new setup (threaded sprockets for pedal and motor, nothing touching the spokes) for less than a month, but I'm very certain it's going to last me a long time.