got my kit, mounts too big?

Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by pickled, May 31, 2009.

  1. pickled

    pickled New Member

    I've searched on this but it seems most people have issues with the engine mounts being too small for their big tubes, I have an old bike so the problem is reversed -- the mounts are too big for my frame.

    is this common, is there an easy fix? it looks like it might work if I put enough inner tube wrapping in there, but that seems like it would lend itself to a weaker mount overall.

    any tips would be greatly appreciated. thanks!

  2. BoltsMissing

    BoltsMissing Active Member

    Need pictures, would help determine the options.
  3. Pablo

    Pablo Motored Bikes Sponsor

    I'm sure you could shim it out nicely with something besides junky inner tubes (which will quickly disintegrate.)

    Lead sheet had been mentioned. Soft copper? Aluminum? Some other polymer?
  4. pickled

    pickled New Member

    lead sheet is an interesting idea. I wonder how that will do with vibration in comparison to rubber?

    I'll see if I can get a pic or two shortly
  5. pickled

    pickled New Member

    here's a couple pics

    Attached Files:

  6. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    I would go with the lead sheet
    you would think it will help with vibrations as well
  7. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    I've never used lead sheet as a spacer....would it be too soft with engine vibration?
    Personal recommendation at the mo would be aluminium.
  8. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    good point, fetor ! :)
  9. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    I never have been a fan of the 'cast' mounting clamps. The 'stamped' steel straps always conformed better to the bike frame, for a more versatile fit.
  10. Junster

    Junster Member

    Dax has some motor clamps on their site they claim are unbreakable.
  11. biken stins

    biken stins Member

    Are you going to change the studs and bolts. May not snap or brake as easy.
  12. BoltsMissing

    BoltsMissing Active Member

    Go leather, you won't regret it.
    I have tried old leather belts, still ok but the stitching frays.
    The leather on pic is a proper cut leather strap new from a leather shop.
    Many thicknesses and widths to choose from. I use some PVC tape to hold in place, easy, flexible and it works. Try a wholesale leather shop, cheaper.

    Attached Files:

  13. pickled

    pickled New Member

    Where do I find the Dax site for clamps?

    Eventually I will probably change the studs and bolts, but I'm leaving everything as is until I get the engine mounted and running.

    Leather is what I have been thinking about a lot. I'll probably give that a shot since I have a couple old belts I could start with.
  14. Junster

    Junster Member

    A good source of leather that's right for that is a feed store. They have lots of thick leather parts for horse tack. They are usually pretty cheap. Lot's of man's belts have cardboard sewn in them. Here's a link to dax. I'd still consider using aluminum sheet. It's very easy to cut with snips and bends easy to fit. I'm sure the leather will work too.
  15. BoltsMissing

    BoltsMissing Active Member

    Nope, I bought it from a leather wholesaler, in the city, 1 metre strips ( no feed stores I know of), and a proper leather hole punch to do the job properly when cutting pieces of leather between the engine block and C-Clamps so the holes line up with engine studs.
    It's also good to put on a cross bar where the tank sits on, so it prevents the tank from eventually rupturing.
    Hole punch was made in good ol USA btw.

    Nope, that's called a Saddlery or RM Williams, but I have never ridden a horse so I would not know anyway.

    That's why we don't use them. The 1st pic clearly shows it's a all pure leather, but I'll post some more just to clear it up a bit. It's been tried, it works for us, none is theory or problys.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jun 2, 2009
  16. Junster

    Junster Member

    Where's adelaide? I live on the west coast USA so I'm going by what's available here. Yes a saddlery or on the west coast a tack shop does have all that. Here at least in Washington State there are tons of feed stores that also carry simple replacement parts for headstalls etc. Like replacment reins, leather buckle straps, etc. Since you need so little to do this just a couple 8" leather straps could be cut up to work. Sorry you seem to have taken offence at some more choices. Oh and yes I've owned and ridden a couple horses.
  17. BoltsMissing

    BoltsMissing Active Member

    it's a bike with a motor forum for f^&%s sake, not some gramma elitist group
  18. eisle89

    eisle89 Member

    1/8th or 3/16th inch rubber will make a perfect shock absorbing mount for the engine. You got lucky here, most fit so tight that you can hardly use anything thicker than an innertube and they wear out fast. Make sure that you take some sandpaper or a file to the inside of the engine mounting surface and take off all the burrs so as not to cut the rubber. This isn't a problem, like I said .. you kinda got lucky.
  19. Molotov256

    Molotov256 Member

    If you wanna do this on the cheap, I wrapped an old inner tube around the frame to insulate from vibrations, and then sliced up some old soda and beer cans to wrap around the tube until it was thick enough to clamp the mount properly.

    I also happen to lead a very healthy lifestyle and am a well respected member of my community :rolleyes7:

    Pics below:

    Downtube 3.JPG , Seat Tube.JPG
  20. wildwestrider

    wildwestrider Member

    Anyone tried a section of radiator hose?