Got the Engine.... now what?

Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by MichRider, Jun 15, 2007.

  1. MichRider

    MichRider Guest

    So I finally got my engine which is good bc my car just died...as in dead, never gunna run again! I'm installing it on a mountain bike and so far everything is going ok... but a few Q's.... how do I shorten the chain from the engine to the sprocket? and what is the "Engine sprocket and Clutch Hub
    Puller tool" for? Thanks guys!
     

  2. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    1) use a chain breaker or grind the tip off the pin and drive it out with a nail for chain

    2) it is to pull the engine sprocket or the clutch plate on other side of engine (kinda like a steering wheel or gear puller)
     
  3. MichRider

    MichRider Guest

    thanks, another Q, do I need to use the idler pulley or if I can get the chain pulled tight can I just not use the pulley?
     
  4. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    depending on your frame choice....you might need the tensioner for clearance issues. but ideally...if you can install without the idler..whoohoo!
     
  5. Guest

    Guest Guest

    The idler pulley give you a lot of leeway in chain tension that moving the rear wheel won't. Don't make the chain too tight...1/2-3/4" freeplay.

    Also don't worry if you don't get the rear sprocket perfectly centered...I don't know if anyone has yet, but turn the wheel and check your chain tightness and make sure you have some freeplay.

    I've been running mine with about an inch of freeplay at the loosest part of the run for weeks with no problem.
     
  6. MichRider

    MichRider Guest

    ok, got the chain on and I looks like its going to work great. Now I'm onto the clutch. I don't get how its going to work. from the point on the engine that the clutch cable feeds through to the clutch arm... the cable isn't long enough. Its too short and heres what I don't get, the arm can't turn that way so how is that cable supposed to do anything?
     
  7. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

  8. davidsis

    davidsis Guest

    Clutch

    Does not look like much travel, but it works. What kind of bike are you using? Kind of tricky getting the cable through that little brass thing.
     
  9. MichRider

    MichRider Guest

    Im using a mountain bike. There is no extra room in the cable. If I try to wrap it around the bike, even loosly, to keep it from hanging where it will get caught, it pulls the clutch. Beyond that, i think the clutch is good to go.
     
  10. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    if you determine the clutch cable is too short, you can get a brake cable at any bike shop
     
  11. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Don't wrap it around the bike, try to make gentle "S" turns and use some zipties to loosely hold it in place.
     
  12. MichRider

    MichRider Guest

    ok, Im think im good with everything but I still have top put the muffler on, just need to bend it. I have a problem though.... the rear tire wont move. Is there a way to disengage the chain from the engine? The wheel moves but with much resistance and when it moves I hear the piston moving... pedaling is impossible, even with the clutch pulled (is that what the clutch does?) Thanks so much for your help guys! ...oh... and how do you start it?
     
  13. SlicerDicer

    SlicerDicer Guest

    I would venture to guess your clutch is not pulled tight enough so its not fully disengaging. If the piston moves that explains the problem pretty much. Make that clutch cable tighter :)

    As for starting it once you get the cable pulled so that you can pedal easy then you let the clutch out and BWAA BWAA it should start. Have the choke in the up position for starting.
     
  14. MichRider

    MichRider Guest

    I pressed the clutch arm itself hard with my hand and I still had the problem. What else could it be?
     
  15. SlicerDicer

    SlicerDicer Guest

    it _REALLY_ needs to be pressed hard when you use your hand... I am talking to the degree of PAIN in the hand... It leaves dents in my hand and actually the end where the cable goes through cut me slightly I pushed it so hard.

    have somebody grab the bike on one side and you push your guts out.. thats about how hard I have to do it :shock:

    Hope that helps some
     
  16. Guest

    Guest Guest

  17. MichRider

    MichRider Guest

    OK!!! We're good to go! Just need to stuick the muffler on (have to take it to work to do that then its cruisin' time. I'll get pics up asap. It looks realy cool, although the mountain bike looks like its been ridden hard a
    nd so jerry-rigging was need to adapt the aparatus to the bike, im proud of it! ....now lets just hope it starts....

    Thanks guys, I owe ya all one!
     
  18. MichRider

    MichRider Guest

    Well nuts.... my chain kept locking before I got it started, so i had to remount the engine to fix the angle..... the end piece to the clutch cable popped off and is in the weeds somewhere and since i remounted the engine, my chain isnt long enough so i need another master link to add more links....
    The first time starting, should it take a bit to get going? The is also a lever on the air intake part of the carborator, what is that? its in some asian lang.
    So that was a very bad test drive and now i need some new parts.
     
  19. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    that lever on side of carb is choke
    search choke on the forum and you will get lots of info
     
  20. MichRider

    MichRider Guest

    ooooook....so i got the parts last night and got them on, it all looked good. So i took it out for a test drive today and finally got it to go...... for only about 30 seconds. It was weak (i didnt go full throttle though as Dax's website advises not to for breaking it in) and like i said, it was short lasting. After that i got it to go just a bit but it wouldn't last for long or have any power. And it was also very jumpy..... any advice? The chain is on snug now with just a very little bit of slack and everything else appears to be in good order.
    Help!
    Thanks
     
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