grubee 66cc with cns v3 carb help

Discussion in 'Performance Mods' started by snopro1379, Aug 28, 2012.

  1. snopro1379

    snopro1379 New Member

    okay so i just got the 2011 grubee kit with the better carb a few days ago. Have it all put together and was running pretty dogish with the break in mixture. Now after breaking it in i am running klotz super techplate at 32:1 based off what i been reading. I also changed the plug to the E3.12. It definitly runs a little better , but as the hotter the motor gets (more i ride) the "doggier" it gets. I really would like to ride it to work which is about 5 miles but there is some pretty good hill that i would like to be able to pull.

    I was hoping someone could help me on the following based off what i have read on this helpful forum:

    Can i remove the head gasket and just run like the black or copper gasket maker? I want the motor to be reliable but just looking for it to clean up and make a little more power.

    Also i have a msd 8mm spark plug wire which i read will help. Is this something fairly easy to replace. I have all the crimping tooling from when i built my hot rod.

    also: the intake looks to be a little rough, and with being a manager of a large fab shop i have access to all kinds of dy grinders etc. Will it help me to clean the intake up or even lengthen it if i have to? i can easily do this but dont want to butch it up and go the wrong way with it.

    i kinda like the exhaust. Its somewhat loud but not obnoxious. I want it fairly quiet.

    Any other easy tips, or tricks would be greatly appreciated as i am new to the world of bike motors.

    Thanks, Dylan Myers

    and by the way i already loc tited everything on the motor as it almost fell apart in 5 miles. haha
     

  2. snopro1379

    snopro1379 New Member

    maybe some carb work?
     
  3. Greg58

    Greg58 Member

    I always clean up the intake and the exhaust, trying to match the flange openings of each to its respective port as close as possible. On one I also had to clean up the ports in the cylinder also. You will need to put about 250 to 300 miles on the engine before the power starts to increase, at least that's what it took for both of mine. A word of caution, when die grinding the cylinder do not open up the port or grind near the bore because the chrome is very thin and can be damaged very easy.
     
  4. snopro1379

    snopro1379 New Member

    sounds good,

    the more i ride it the better it seems to get

    thanks again
     
  5. snopro1379

    snopro1379 New Member

    can anyone help me out on the spark plug wire issue? can i change it with the stock spark box? reading alot that it will help.

    i also am going to extend my intake tube and lengthen my exhaust which should help some too
     
  6. Greg58

    Greg58 Member

    Yes you can change the wire, it screws out of the cdi just like the cap screws off. Some are hard to get out but do come apart. Since you are talking about lengthening the intake and exhaust you may have already found the link below, if not it has a lot of useful info.
    http://www.dragonfly75.com/motorbike/index.html
     
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2012
  7. snopro1379

    snopro1379 New Member

    yep found that link and that is my basic guideline as of now.

    over the week i took out the head gasket flattened the headsurface to seal well and sealed it up. I also took notice my E3 3.12 plug is slightly shorter than stock so i took the washer off of it and now they are very close. Just from doing this i recieved a ton more bottom end power. When i pulled my plug it was pretty black and oily, of which i already thought it would look like that since i had a feeling it was rich. I will wait till i lengthen the intake and exhaust before i play with that...........
    correct me if i am wrong.......

    from that link i am reading that adding 6" to exhaust is best?
    and that lengthening the intake 3-4" is best?

    im looking for good bottom end but also some top end too.....

    thanks
     
  8. Greg58

    Greg58 Member

    On my bike I used a 13 inch head pipe on the exhaust a home made muffler and flange. It helped the low to mid range greatly, helped top end also. I have not worked with the intake yet.
     

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  9. snopro1379

    snopro1379 New Member

    welp, finally got it running pretty good and took it on bout a 10 mile ride. Almost back and it seems like the clutch locked up...motor turns over from flywheel but the gear that turns the chain is locked? idk what to do help!!!
     
  10. Greg58

    Greg58 Member

    You have two bearings and a large spring on the output shaft, the shaft will come out without splitting the case.
     

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  11. snopro1379

    snopro1379 New Member

    huh so what do you think happened? bearing went? i mean if the flywheel and that other small gear spin ok then the clutch should be free, but on the left side of the motor the drive gear will not spin.??????
     
  12. Greg58

    Greg58 Member

    I would removed the pressure plate and use a wrench to try to turn the shaft, if you have the clutch removal tool use it to get the clutch assembly off then tap the shaft out to the left. You don't have to remove the chain drive gear to do this.
     
  13. snopro1379

    snopro1379 New Member

    well i threw a socket on the drive gear and turned it and it broke free and seems fine now..... i think im going to pull it out anyways and grease it up a bit and make sure everything is fine. I also talked to piston bikes where i bought it from and he said make sure your rear chain wheel is with in a dime width of wobble either way or it will place a good bit of stress on that shaft. I know its not perfect so i will play with that also. While i was out i got all new hardware cause everything i touch on it strips out with having blue loc tite on every bolt haha. thanks again greg
     
  14. Greg58

    Greg58 Member

    After thinking about your problem it sounds like something is wrong in the tension spring, the bearings should be 6202 sealed bearings so lubrication will be hard to do. You don't have to thank me I'm just passing on what I've been helped with.
     
  15. Purple Haze

    Purple Haze Active Member

    Those stock bearings are ****. I would replace both ends with some good 6202 bearings. Also, when you put everything back, make sure the shaft spins freely, some of these engines have misalignment issues.
     
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