Have you seen a weedeater that uses this style ignition coil / module ??

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by sparky, Jun 7, 2011.

  1. sparky

    sparky Active Member

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260654479196&viewitem=#vi-content

    I can see these Chinese ignition coils/modules are very popular on Chinese motors. Imagine that...

    Does ANY weedeater or other similar motor use this same style?

    52mm distance between eyelet holes. That's the only thing I'm looking for. Not even concerned with the 2-prong socket for kill switch, as I neither have, nor need one.

    I don't want to order a janky Chinese replacement because I ordered 2 from one dealer, and neither of them worked, even tho it bolted right up and was gapped as close as possible (with a business card). If a Poulon, Husqvarna, Stihl, Go-Ped, or ANY OTHER MOTOR uses this style ignition module, please let me know so I can order directly from them. They MUST be able to send me one that isn't a dud.

    1,000 Internet Points to the one who can help me find a reliable ignition module!!!
     

  2. nvmextc

    nvmextc New Member

  3. BillMckraken

    BillMckraken New Member

    You may have better luck searching for "SATOR COIL" as that's the most specific description of the part. The ignition module is the CDI itself and you may not find what your looking for.

    As for finding one that bolts up and isn't a china type, that could be tougher. However it looks like there are at least a couple versions that may work. not sure if you've tried these.

    http://www.scooterpart.net/products.php?id=1890

    http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/2igcofor336m.html

    I believe on of those two will work. The second link actually says 52mm spacing.

    Also you could search for "Ignition system" possibly find a whole replacement. It's possible to find a better quality this way. I found a complete system that should work also for 60 + ship.

    http://www.motorparts4less.com/products.php?id=1416

    Hopefully one of those links will work for you, but if not....try those search terms.

    Thanks
     
  4. sparky

    sparky Active Member

    Thanks for the effort,nv... But that's not gonna fit.

    And thanks for the search term suggestions, Bill. The reason I don't want to order one of those "nameless" ignition coils is because I've already ordered 2 from 1 vendor and neither of them worked!!!

    This is why I'm asking for a REAL manufacturer and engine model number that makes something I can order from them. I've heard that my engine is a copy of many brands, but such description is absolutely wrong.
     
  5. tone2crazy

    tone2crazy Member

    what engine do you have?
     
  6. BillMckraken

    BillMckraken New Member

    hmmm 2 non-working coils from the start. That makes me wonder. It's odd that multiple coils are bad at the start. There are 2 variables here to consider then.
    Do you have another CDI unit to test the coils with? It is possible the circuit is not "Switching" properly and wouldn't correctly drive any coil.
    Also, changing brands / types of coils most likely will change the coils themselves. In these magnet powered ignitions, they use very low overall energy. It is very possible that other coils may not drive correctly with the CDI. If the coil has more wire (beefier) it may not transfer enough energy to the CDI. If the coil has less wire (china ****, lol) it may produce too weak of spark.

    Maybe check the resistance of the coils. if they are good, try another CDI module to eliminate that.

    Heck if all else fails you could convert the system to HEI, but you'd need a battery then.

    maybe check a local repair place for mowers n' such? you could at least take yours in and see if they have something that fits used.

    hope this helps
     
  7. sparky

    sparky Active Member

    It's a "nameless" 33cc China engine. Help any?? :goofy:

    Thanks, Bill.

    It is funny that 2 "new" coils wouldn't work. I know that they are the problem, because my old rusty, corroded coil works just fine to crank it up, but somehow... the engine just dies down after a while. I just want a new, non-corroded wire (not even so much the coil) to see if it will still die down... but the new coils won't even fire!! They spark, but not FIRE!! I've sent them back to be tested, but I could've tested them myself for resistance had I thought about that first. :icon_cry:

    I've taken it to a local small engine shop and he can't do anything without a model number to order a replacement from. There's another shop another town over, but I really don't expect him to be able to help. I'm pretty desperate at this point, however, so I should go give him a TRY.

    As long as it looks like the one in the OP, but isn't "nameless", I'm willing. :grin5:

    Thanks again for the suggestions, guys.
     
  8. sparky

    sparky Active Member

    HEHEHE....

    I took the two coils I still have down to TWO small engine repair shops. First one looked at it and said, can't do anything with it. Second shop said the same thing... but luckily, I brought my extra coil with cut wire & my cut car plug wire there and asked them if they could put them together (coil wire is multi-strand copper, the car plug wire was like fiber optics something that I couldn't splice).

    Anyway, the guy just ended up putting on a new BOOT, which is all I really wanted. :dunce:

    Got home, and the one that was cut now works!! Fired right up!

    Rode around the block and it gradually died, like it's been doing. I figured it can only be compression or an air leak, so I see that on the engine side of the intake manifold it does look like there's a little gap that wasn't there before. So I go home, take it off, and there's a regular gasket and a thicker rubber-ish gasket. This has got to be the problem!!

    I take the regular gasket off since that was the problem and put it back together. It seemed like I got a bit farther, but it still just whined out and died. This particularly happens when going up a hill or any other time requiring high power output, like WOT or going against the wind.

    Heck, I remembered kerf said something about the exhaust clogging up, so I took that off and boiled it (???) to get any gunk out if it were causing this problem. Put it back on and the problem persists.

    So it's SOME kinda leak. I'm not sure if it's a compression problem (would it even crank up at all, let alone push me an eighth of a mile?) or it's still got an intake leak, but I'm hoping it's only the latter.

    At least I know it's not an electrical problem now!!
     
  9. sparky

    sparky Active Member

    Yup.... it's an air leak.

    That thicker "rubber" gasket was actually plastic, so it needs gaskets on both sides. Luckily, I had one more, but it's got a crack, too!!

    All the small engine repair shops were closed. Lowes and Home Depot didn't have any gaskets and O-rings, so I just used what I had.

    I MADE IT A WHOLE MILE!!!

    I wasn't going fast enough :helmet:, so I leaned it out to normal ratio and then it died almost instantly. :thinking: Put it back and I was able to make it home, but that tiny crack in that one gasket [and possibly the o-ring, too] is causing me a bit of grief.

    I'm positive that once I get the gaskets and o-ring it'll be in tip top shape... and I won't need to be messing with this **** for another 3 years, tho. So that's good. :D

    Whew... All in a week's work. :whistling::whistling::whistling::detective:
     
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