Head Torquing Sequence:

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by Hal the Elder, Mar 10, 2009.

  1. Hal the Elder

    Hal the Elder Member


    I know that the head bolt tightening sequence has been posted here before, in fact I read it again just yesterday.

    However, I would like to have a new sequence posted for clarification.

    I'm submitting a picture of Oscar's cylinder deck in the perspective and position I'll be usng for attaching the head.

    On top, on the valve side, I'll call those bolts (left to right) A , B, and C.

    The 10mm bolts (left to right), I'll call D and E

    The next pair down (left to right), I'll call F and G.

    The bottom Pair (left to right) I'll call H and I.

    Now, please give me the proper tightening sequence, using my letter designation.

    Thanks a Lot...

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 10, 2009

  2. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    D.........E 144 inch pounds [12 foot pounds]
    F.........G 144 inch pounds
    A.........C 144 inch pounds
    H.........I 144 inch pounds
    B.......... 144 inch pounds

    D.........E 168 inch pounds [14 foot pounds]
    F.........G 168 inch pounds
    A.........C 168 inch pounds
    H.........I 168 inch pounds
    B.......... 168 inch pounds

    D.........E 180 inch pounds [15 foot pounds]
    F.........G 180 inch pounds
    A.........C 180 inch pounds
    H.........I 180 inch pounds
    B.......... 180 inch pounds

    D.........E 210 inch pounds [17.5 foot pounds]

    After 100 miles recheck

    Never adjust unless motor is completely cold!

    Have fun,
  3. Hal the Elder

    Hal the Elder Member

    Thanks, Quenton!

    Now to go to CTO and buy that set of ball-end long-reach Metric Allen Wrenches with 3/8" socket drive!

    (CTO = Chinese Tool Outlet, or Harbor Freight!)

  4. go-rebels

    go-rebels Member

    I went to Northern Tool and found a set of metric ball end sockets with the following sizes:


    That's right, no 8mm. What the he**?

    I ended up spending about $50 and bought a new S-K set on Ebay. They were cheaper than the Craftsman at my local Sears!
  5. Hal the Elder

    Hal the Elder Member

    Hey Quenton:

    I did as Moderator Jim suggested and bought that set of long-reach ball-end Metric allen wrenches at Harbor Freight, then removed the Gas Tank, and find that I can access only the 4 head bolts that clear the frame tubes on the right side.

    The remaining 5 bolts are crammed under the twin frame tubes, and there's no way on Earth or any other planet that I can get in there even with the ball end-allen wrenches.

    So it looks like I'm gonna have to shift the engine to one side or the other to get access with those other 5 bolts.

    What's the best way to do this?

  6. RdKryton

    RdKryton Active Member

    Wow Hal
    That is strange. I can get to all of mine and Kilroy's head bolts without shifting the engine. I do have to go down between the frame tubes to get the one bolt (B on your chart) but I didn't have any problems. I'm very sorry my info did not apply to your situation. I'll be quiet now...

    Last edited: Mar 10, 2009
  7. Hal the Elder

    Hal the Elder Member

    Heck, Jim...you didn't know! Don't beat yourself up!

  8. RdKryton

    RdKryton Active Member

    I feel bad because you spent money on my recommendation and it turns out to be wasted money because my info was incorrect.
  9. Hal the Elder

    Hal the Elder Member

    I have the receipt and the packing.

  10. Hal the Elder

    Hal the Elder Member


    Only four head bolts are accessible with my torque wrench, on the right side of the engine.


    The other five are under the twin frame tubes and are inaccessible, even with the ball end of the allen wrenches!

    To get to all nine bolts, my engine would have to be shifted THREE INCHES to the right.

    I measured it!


    Attached Files:

  11. RdKryton

    RdKryton Active Member

    I am surprised the ball end does not let you access the others from an angle. I can't go straight in but I can get them from an angle.
  12. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi Hal,

    Jim is correct, most of the time the allens can access the bolts at an angle. From your pictures it appears the motor sits high and towards the rear, or maybe all Whizzer frames aren't exactly the same. I have noticed differences over the last few years, it is almost like some frames are 26", some are 24", and some are 24" frames with 26" wheels and some are 26" frames with 24" wheels.

    The way to avoid a lot of adjusting later to get the belts right would be the smartest path to follow. Roll the belt off the rear sheeve, place tape along the frame tubes above the motor, and also directly in front of and above the front bar & frame clamp. The purpose of the tape is to protect the paint on your frame. Loosen the screws that hold the front clamp onto the frame and slide it off the bar and up the frame [over the tape you just installed]. Loosen the top rear motor mount, and you can now gently push the motor from side to side to gain access to the head bolts via the extended allen sockets you just purchased. Simply note where the top motor mount bolt is before you start and then reverse the process to put the motor back correctly. Don't get "carried away" pushing the motor from side to side because you still have the bottom motor mount bolt intact and tight.

    Have fun,
  13. Hal the Elder

    Hal the Elder Member

    NO DEAL!

    Those ball-end allen wrenches only fit my bolts at a slight angle from straight-in...no more than about 10 degrees, and some of those bolts under the frame require what looks like a 45-degree approach!

    I'm not going to all the trouble to disconnect and move the engine to provide access for torquing, then to re-align it, only have to go through that whole mess again after 100 miles to re-check the torque!

    No thank you!

    I'm going to install that head WITHOUT torquing the bolts, using the 2 allen wrenches I used to remove it when the gas tank was still on the bike!

    I'll torque the bolts to your recommended pattern, three times, like you showed me, only using my own "feel" for the final tightening.

    "There...that feels tight enough!"

    Then if I strip the bolts from over-tightening, I'll have myself to blame!

    I'm returning those 7 "spider legs" right now!

    I thank you, Jim, and the others for your helpful suggestions, but I'll have to do this my way, without torquing.