help! :O (clutch, oil and chain talk)

Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by Thejman, Mar 21, 2007.

  1. Thejman

    Thejman Guest

    I put a 80cc engine on my schwinn stingray it looks great. I have a slight or severe problem you could call it. It starts up fine no slipping etc starts like a champ. When i get her going and give some gas it acts like the clutch isit catching and revs high with alot of vibration. However if i slightly turn the throttle it will catch and i can go 10mph for about a minute or 50 seconds i rev it up and it starts to shake/vibrate a lot and not catch so i mess with the throttle untill it catches. Along with that its leaking oil from somewhere. So any ideas? I was thinking about checking the gears/clutch on the right side to see if anything is wrong but since it is starting and pedaling fine I'm not to sure. While im riding i get blowback from the oil too, my dad jokingly said you look like your riding a old Harley lol.
     

  2. Tom

    Tom Active Member

    Hmmm... I would check the clutch... as for the oil leak, i dont know where mine doesnt leak from, my motor is so gross and dirty. I think they all do that.
     
  3. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Logic would say that the leak is contaminating the clutch plate.

    You can clean the clutch with carb cleaner spray, or maybe better yet, brake cleaner. Find the leak, stop it and all will be well. I don't think these clutches take a lot of abuse....don't keep riding it until it's fixed.
     
  4. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    the clutch plate is adjustable:
    http://www.motoredbikes.com/viewtopic.php?t=942

    # 1. How to Adjust Clutch if signs of slipping or squealing are encountered :
    A) Disengage clutch by pulling handle bar clutch lever inward and lock into catch lock.
    B) Remove right side engine clutch cover and remove small locking screw on center *Clutch Adjust Nut.
    C) Pull clutch arm on left rear engine inward. Back off *Clutch Adjust Nut ¼ turn counterclockwise.
    D) Release handlebar clutch lever and check for slight 1/16" free-play on engine clutch arm.
    E) Readjust *Clutch Adjust Nut as required to get required 1/16" clutch arm free play.
    F) Tighten *Clutch Adjust Nut on clutch plate clockwise until just snug.
    G) Then re-install small locking screw in outer edge of *Clutch Adjust Nut .
    H) Good idea to place a small gob of grease at gear mesh area. Use grease sparingly! Then replace cover.

    keep us posted
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 15, 2015
  5. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    mine are all kinda drippy too
     
  6. Thejman

    Thejman Guest


    ^^ thanks I will try this, but for now I cant ride my bike :( The engine bolts vibrated lose in the back and i lost them. Still waiting for kings motor bikes to get back ahold of me they are taking their time too -_-.

    As for the oil leak I think i got that covered, I found my muffler gasket decided to come off damn cheapo. So i went to a auto parts store and got the good stuff they use for the bigger car engines :).
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 15, 2015
  7. Thejman

    Thejman Guest

    on further investigation i found the bolts actually broke off inside the motor :(. I have no idea how I'm going to get them out now.
     
  8. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Easy Out from Sears or other tool store.
     
  9. Thejman

    Thejman Guest

    yeah :) got them out the other day, put some new bolts in rode around and the master chain link broke off :cry: waiting for the parts from dax, should'nt be to long :)
     
  10. Guest

    Guest Guest

    What size drive chain do these use? How many links?
    Reminder- when you put the master link on, make sure the open end faces to the rear of the bike when it's on the top or forward moving section of chain.
     
  11. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    the 1st thing I do is throw out the master link. I normally have to shorten the chain anyway, so I put em together without the masterlink.
     
  12. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Slightly off topic-

    Isn't it better to throw out that hokey idler pulley and make the chain the correct size to begin with?

    I realize the master link is for those that don't have a chain breaker or riveter (not sure what you all call it) and the idler pulley is for the sake of not having to shorten the chain, but they seem to disintegrate quickly.
     
  13. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    the idler pulley is needed for frame clearance. Most chainstays are too narrow. as for life-span....all my idlers are the old ones (no bearings, just a plastic roller, on a shoulder bolt) & they all have several thousand miles. knock on wood...hehehe
    yeah, buddy we're way off topic....and I'm the moddy...sheesh! :eek:


    Thejman: if I could, I'd bring my chain breaker over & fix your chain.
    walmart sells a cheapo chain breaker for about $4.oo. It's good for about 3 repairs (then it breaks). but ok to carry in your tool kit. Park tools has a decent one for about $30.
    not sure of this chain size...heard it called 40....41.....415 ?
    anybody know?
     
  14. Thejman

    Thejman Guest

    415, Went to Theisens and all they carried was a 420 slightly longer pins but it will work for starting it untill i get the 415 in the mail. I may look for a chain breaker somewhere would be handy to have.
     
  15. psuggmog

    psuggmog Guest

    No chainbreaker? you can use a pin punch of a slightly smaller diameter than the rivet of your chain.
     
  16. Guest

    Guest Guest

    ...or grind 'em off, then use a punch to re-pin it back together.
     
  17. Watcher05

    Watcher05 Member

    but if you grind the pin off (which I did) do you put a new pin in or use the old one??

    ta
     
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