Wheels help, wheels and rag joints

snopro1379

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Aug 28, 2012
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Hello everyone,

im pretty new to this whole deal and have been through the ringer with chains and wheels and everything else. So i have already made blue loctite my buddy and the #41 chain from tractor supply. My question is my rear wheel is now trashed. It is on a 1960's ross bicycle which is a pretty standard bike and it has wheels off a new beach cruiser bike. Well they lasted about 50 miles and are now wobbling bad, the spokes are very thin. I was to replace these along with the rag joint that will make somone never ride a bike again. I have a grubee 99cc with the 44t rear sproket.

first off what are my options for wheels? i want HD but dont want to blow the bank? Just a standard coaster brake works for me as i dont ride this thing a ton. Will 14g spokes be strong enough or would you reccomend 12g? where can I find decent wheels?

second off what are my options for alternates to the rag joint? im looking around and dont see a ton, maybe somone can suggest some websites to buy these from and how to make a custom one.

anything would really help.

thanks
 
I have a grubee 99cc with the 44t rear sproket.

first off what are my options for wheels? i want HD but dont want to blow the bank? Just a standard coaster brake works for me as i dont ride this thing a ton. Will 14g spokes be strong enough or would you reccomend 12g? where can I find decent wheels?

second off what are my options for alternates to the rag joint? im looking around and dont see a ton, maybe somone can suggest some websites to buy these from and how to make a custom one.
Is the 99 cc a typo for 49 cc?

I would highly recommend a front brake no matter how much
you ride. Coaster brakes suck.

Heavy duty wheels are available at your local bike store or online.

Manic Mechanic sprocket adapter for a coaster brake hub is the
original upgrade from the rag joint.

www.mmbikeparts.com
 
66 cc....sorry about that.....well i ordered a weinmann DH-39 double wall alloy wheel last night with the 12g stainless spokes, and Histop coaster....anyone have any luck with these? The price on the adapter from pirate is fairly good so i will be seeing one of those in the future. Appreciate everything guys!
 
The Weinmann DH-39 is a great wheel for the money - double-wall with excellent Sapim 12ga stainless spokes - but the Hi-Stop coaster is not a very good brake.

It's a low-end coaster brake hub. It will work until you brake too hard a few times. That's not something one should have to worry about with their brakes.

You can always get a better coaster - like a Shimano CB110 - and re-lace the Weinmann with it. You'll still be able to find a Pirate adapter for it, too.
 
thats what ill do once it takes a **** but the cheap *** coaster from a walmart wheel which i had on it before worked okay....... but like u said after a few hard brakes you really had to be cautious when riding fast lol
 
My question is my rear wheel is now trashed. It is on a 1960's ross bicycle which is a pretty standard bike and it has wheels off a new beach cruiser bike. Well they lasted about 50 miles...
When it comes to a bicycle to me the two most important parts are the motor mount cavity and the back wheel.
A $100 'Wally World' Huffy looks all pretty and nice but have absolute garbage wheels.
Sure they will take junior just pedaling around the neighborhood but they won't take a motor and it doesn't matter what mount you use, a hub stamped out of a beer can, cast axle with loose soft bearings it will simply self destruct.

Even a new axle and sealed bearings won't help much unles you do when the wheel is new but whats the point?

Anyway what is your stature? Height,weight, and riding conditions as they play a big factor.
For example I am 6'2" tall but only 170 so I can ride forever on 14g spokes and 410 chain if the wheel hub is good.

I did just get an inquiry about my building him a bike that would haul this guys 280 pound *** around and not break.
That will require 12g spokes, double rim wheels with good hubs, strong frame, etc.
Otherwise you solve your chain problems at the source by making sure everything is perfect alignment and NEVER rely of a tensioner to move chain sideways and if you are lucky not aneed a drive side chain tensioner at all ;-}
 
well i went with the wheel i spec'd earlier and it is very nice for the money. as of right now the brake works better than what i had but when it starts to go i already have someone to lace a shimano in there for me. I spent all of sunday getting everything lined up with the new #41 chain. That chain works great. The hardest part was getting the rag joint from going tight to loose but after playing with it i got it with in a dime each way. Anyways my statue is 5'-10" and 170, and just to make sure i went with the double wall alloy with the heavy 12g stainless spokes. Rode it about 15 miles on sunday and all went well. I keep ya'all posted and that for all the help........

one question....what are some options for other tensioning rollers? this stock one i dont see holding up forever as im sure you will all agree
 
I really should make a video of how we double team a wheel to put a rag joint sprocket on so it is perfectly aligned in all 3 directions in less than 20 minutes here.
It really is an art to do it right the first time and it takes 2 people.

Anyway, congratulations on getting your bike running right and enjoy it!
 
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