Help with clutch

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by jbburns99, Oct 23, 2013.

  1. jbburns99

    jbburns99 New Member


    ENgine:66cc chinese crap
    PRoblem: clutch won't disengage. the pin my finger is on above will not move in at all, leaving the clutch arm unable to move past parallel with engine. the motor has never been run as i just finished assembling it today and ran into this problem. attempted to do something with the flower nut on the other side but didnt really know what i was trying to do so i stopped. please help!!! dont really know anything about this clutch, took it to a couple motorcycle shops with inconclusive results.

  2. jbburns99

    jbburns99 New Member

    Please help me out if you have any idea whats going on
  3. dougsr.874

    dougsr.874 Active Member

    Is this a joke?
    jbburns99 likes this.
  4. zippinaround

    zippinaround Active Member

    what kind of engine is that? how did you get the drive on the right? i presume you mean it wont disengage with the actuator connected because it will be very hard to push in with your finger!
    jbburns99 likes this.
  5. lazylightning@mail.r

    lazylightning@mail.r Active Member

    I think it's an inverted photograph, something like a mirror reflection of the true picture. So I dont think the drive is really on the right.

    If you really cannot press the pin in and you have already tried LOOSENING the daisy nut, then you should try to regulate the clutch pressure mechanism. First you need to make sure that you really can't push the pin in. Dont try to push it in with anything other than the clutch lever mechanism. It will seem more difficult than it really is. If the clutch lever really cannot depress the pushrod/pin, and you did loosen the daisy nut on the pads side, then readjust the clutch pressure settings that come from the factory and are usually not tuned by average users. Do you see the little support post that the clutch cable goes through? Just in the top of the carter. Remove the clutch cable and sheath so that you can unscrew that post from the carter. There will be a hole open then. You take a thin screwdriver or allen wrench (2 - 2.5 mm) and slide it into the hole at an angle towards the pads side while it is angled against the other side of the hole's rim. Just slide the instrument into the hole at as sharp an angle possible with the tip going in going towards the pads side. Push down at the same time and start to push the bike forward and back a bit. When you feel it click into a slot, push the bike forward to loosen the pressure adjustment(small sprocket will be turning counter clockwise). The slot edge will be biting into your allen wrench or screwdriver and you will feel or hear some pressured sliding of metal surfaces. Maybe something like a spring creaking as something slides against it under pressure. Try pushing it forward in this condition so that the small sprocket on the engine does 1 - 1.5 full turns. Put the cover with lever on and try to depress the clutch. If it's alright, then just remove the screwdriver or allen wrench. It might seem a little stuck, do not panic, calmly wiggle it out. If this adjustment is too loose then you will get slippage during acceleration. If it is too tight then your clutch parts will wear out every few days or weeks ( the pushrod gets shorter fast, cables break). Be prepared to repeat this adjustment several times to get it right. It is a pain in the ass to get that bent up clutch cable back through those little holes. Patience may grant you some grace and luck...
    jbburns99 likes this.
  6. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    Hehehe, has to be a mirror image pic, funny ;-}

    The most likely cause of your problem is not the clutch plate, it is usually dried grease in the bearing seam between the clutch pad back and shaft.

    Just remove the lock screw and flower nut to remove the clutch plate.


    Note there is spring under the plate, pull it out as well.


    The object is to break the bearing seam free and a big long screw driver works dandy but PAY ATTENTION!


    1. Only pry using 2 of the 3 floating guide pins and never pry against the moving center pin!

    2. The outer portion of that plate hooks to the little engine gear, we do not want this outer ring to move so you need to either wedge something between the big and small gears at the bottom or pull the plug and put something like a socket extension in the hole to catch and stop the piston just before TDC.

    3. The inner portion of that plate directly connects to the drive sprocket on the left side. This is the portion we want to move so take your drive chain off so the bike won't move.

    It doesn't take much force to break it free, then put your spring back in, the plate on, screw the flower nut on some and hook up your left side drive train including the clutch cable.

    NOTE: It is a good idea to clean out any gunk between the brake pads and off the clutch plate friction side.

    Pull the clutch in to lock position and then tighten the flower nut to where the bike won't roll then back it off about 1/2 a turn.

    You want to balance where the clutch runs free or engages, this is easy with the flower nut provided your cable is right.
    Just keep adjusting to where the engine is engaged up to just before the clutch lever in lock position by rolling the bike.

    When you have it right tweak the flower nut so it is over a set screw hole, it doesn't matter which one, then put a drop of blue LokTight on the lock screw and put it in.
    jbburns99 likes this.
  7. Big Red

    Big Red Active Member

    This happens once in a while, And AGAIN, KC comes through, DO it exactly as he says and you will be good to go.
    jbburns99 likes this.
  8. jbburns99

    jbburns99 New Member

    THank you all very much! Got it working, just need to get the bike started now. Not a joke. I do not know what im doing. Very much appreciate all the help.
  9. lazylightning@mail.r

    lazylightning@mail.r Active Member

    Wow! Amazing! I would have never thought about dried grease being able to stop the pressure pin from being depressed. It being new and all I suspected the worse.

    One of our vendors had quite a few engines in one lot that came with the wrong piston or crank, depending on how you want to look at it. The engines wouldn't even turn over with the piston bottoming out in the head. Makes one think the worse after seeing some of the mistakes that get by the inspectors at their factories in China.

    Glad you got it working! I'll keep this remedy in mind for the folks on the forums over here.
  10. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    Actually it has nothing to do with the pressure pin, it moves and the clutch plate moves out, the bearing just doesn't release so the drive portion spins free of the engine.
  11. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    thats it.

    clutch is three pieces. a pressure plate that moves, a pressure plate that stays still, and the gear is sandwiched in between.

    the clutch is engaged from the factory, sits around in a container for two years, and the rubber friction pads simply stick themselves to the pressure plates due to the constant pressure. come time for operation, and things are stuck! the mobile plate moves (sometimes), but the gear is still locked to the other plate via the pads.

    this here is a nice clear concise way of releasing said friction pads :)

    (personally though, my thoughts on the original post was simply..."not even superman can push that pin in by hand...where is the cover and lever?" as well as "nice inversion" :jester: then i reread the bit about a parallel arm and reconsidered. )
  12. lazylightning@mail.r

    lazylightning@mail.r Active Member

    My pads are the red-orange ones that don't contain rubber. I'm still using the same ones I got stock 2.5 years %-D
  13. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    Nope, stuck pads is not it at all.

    Look at this picture again to understand just how complicated that clutch really is and what this particular problem is.


    The back clutch pad plate pictured is NOT one solid piece, it's two pieces that are supposed to spin free in the middle at what I indicate as the Bearing Seam.

    The inner portion connects to the hollow shaft that goes to the left side drive sprocket and the clutch pin and rod are inside it and connected to the right side outer silver pressure plate via the 3 pins, pushed out by the spring, and adjusted via the flower nut.

    The other outer half of the clutch plate has the pads and gear teeth that connect to the little engine crank shaft sprocket.

    What happens in engines that sit around for years in boxes is the little bit of grease in that bearings seam gets hard and makes the clutch plate stick solid.

    As mentioned it doesn't take much to break that bearing joint free, it just doesn't have anything to do with the pads sticking to the outer silver pressure plate or the the push pin not working which I suspect was just an erroneous diagnosis.

    I haven't seen it since the of the last of 2009 Skyhawks sitting on shore in the US after the 2010 EPA regs still shipped as everything SKyhawk since including the new 2013 'parts in a box' kits haven't had this problem but I can't speak for all the other engines.
  14. bteneriello

    bteneriello New Member

    a lot of the time if you just soak it down ( the pin) with should release for ya
  15. Big Red

    Big Red Active Member

    Probably NOT bro, And I don't use wd 40 for anything on my bike, except as a rust remover for chrome rims and the like,with a little very fine steel wool. WD 40 rinses out grease. But is a good lube for cleaning chrome.
  16. Huotalicus

    Huotalicus Member

    Dear friend I'm having an issue now where my bike won't seem to fire n now I am suspecting this is the issue?? Would this stop the engine from firing and starting altogether ??
  17. Huotalicus

    Huotalicus Member

    Is this only for new engines