Help with first build.

Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by nmoulana, Oct 10, 2008.

  1. nmoulana

    nmoulana New Member

    Hey guys, I want to say before I get burned that I did try and search but it was hard to know exactly what to type in the key word box and I couldn't find help for my specific problems.

    First off, the kill switch assembly. I read on some of the threads I searched that I am not supposed to hook anything to the white wire leading out of the engine since it will kill my magneto. I sort of inferred that I'm not supposed to even try using the stock kill switch. So far I am totally in the dark as to how I'm going to shut my engine down aside from stalling it.

    Second, I can't figure out how to connect my wire to the clutch arm. There is only 1 cylinder bead thingy on the connecting wire that I'm supposed to use to connect my hand lever to the clutch lever. How am I supposed to connect the naked end of the wire to the clutch arm?

    Finally, I have a blue and black wire coming out of my engine, am I supposed to connect these to the blue and black wire coming out of my ignition box. Please forgive me if any of these questions are painfully obvious. I actually am fairly confident on what I am supposed to do but I just thought I would confirm it with you guys since it is my first build and all :cool: . Thanks!

  2. brendonv

    brendonv Member

    Heres a video i made on how to wire the happytime engines kill switch:

    For the clutch, in ur kit u get a little metal tube sort of thing with a screw in it, u use that to put the wire through and then tighten with the screw. I had to drill a hole in my clutch arm as the cable wouldnt go through the gap. Hope that helps.
  3. nmoulana

    nmoulana New Member

    Hmmm, could someone also explain how I install the rear sprocket? My bike doesn't have anything to screw the sprocket into on the left side, all it has is a small disc in the center where all the spokes meet.
  4. stude13

    stude13 Active Member

    its sprocket, rubber, spokes, rubber, metal pieces. use all american nuts and bolts on everything. also get red and blue locktite. most use #41 chain. watch that tensioner. you can get 6mm and 8mm allthread to make studs. change out spark plug and get an auto coil wire, they just screw in. do all of that and you are on your way. lets ride. mitch
  5. johnny q

    johnny q New Member

    stude - could you please expound on the part about the spark plug and the auto coil wire ?

    thanks, tt
  6. nmoulana

    nmoulana New Member

    Hey guys, I can't believe I'm asking this but I guess you guys already know that I'm a noob so there's no need to be coy. I can't seem to find a **** bike that has a thin enough frame to mount my motor on and that doesn't cost $700. I have a budget of about $200 to spend on a bike. Can anyone please suggest a cheap, easy to find bike that can fit a 70cc motor? It would also be very helpful if the bike is a Schwinn or something that I could find at a Wal-Mart because I really don't want to have to order one off the internet. I'm really amazed at how hard it is to find a bike with a simple diamond frame these days, it seems like every bike has these slanted diamond frames that serve no purpose but to just barely not fit my motor.
  7. brendonv

    brendonv Member

    Wal-Mart is good, the tip or junkyard is a good place to look as well.
  8. andante94

    andante94 New Member

    Hey. Most hard tail mtb frames are standard diamond configuration and are a dime a dozen in the U.S.

    Walmart, K-Mart and sporting goods stores are good starting points that will fit your
    budget. Also, check your local thrift store or pawn shop. May be some killer deals there.

  9. Wal Mart sells a Cranbrook cruiser built by Huffey to Wal-Mart cheapo specs. Huffey builds a better one for $140 AND wALLYWORLD GETS $70 on internet or $80 in the store.
    I bought the store one to use parts off it. The front fender is thin sainless steel. It is secured with 1 rivet at the fork. That rivet let go and the fender rotated with the wheel, being drawn against it by the rear strut shortening. It made the wheel into a pretzel and I went down on my shoulder. I wrote Huffey to price a fender and strut and told them I salvaged the spokes and put them in another rim, but they sent me a new wheel, fender, and strut free of charge. The fender is heavier chromed steel, and the bracket held with 2 rivets and the strut is heavier diameter. Huffey are good folks.
    The Cranbrook front downtube is too large, but you can mount it some way. I used an antique Monarch frame. This was a 5-1/2 hp 4-cycle build so I had no problem with the frame diameter. I later considered using it with a Gru Bee but opted for a Schwinn cruiser bike instead. Keith (trackfodder) Williams
  10. nmoulana

    nmoulana New Member

    Thanks for the suggestions especially the Cranbrook cruiser but I'm looking for something that also has handbrakes. I have another question for you guys, I've been looking through some of the pictures in the gallery and I noticed that some of you guys have fuel shut off valves and some even have filters. My kit only came with the tank, line, and carb. Is there somewhere I could find a fuel filter?

    Hey guys, I'm looking to buy this bike, do you think it would fit a 70cc motor without having to drill the frame?$100-$199&page=1
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2008
  11. nmoulana

    nmoulana New Member

  12. nmoulana

    nmoulana New Member

    I really need help.

    OK guys, if you read my first thread I guess you already know that I'm not doing too well with my first build. I have had my engine for close to a month now and I still am not able to find a bicycle that can fit my engine. I went to Schwinn and all I found was 1 bike that would work but it costed $800. I have a budget of about $200 to spend on a bike. I am using a 60cc chinese motor that I got from (advertised as a 50cc). What are some good bikes that I can purchase online that would fit my budget and my motor? Most of the bikes I have looked at also don't have very much pedal clearance so please take that into account. Thank you.

    P.S. I really don't want to have to drill the frame and use the universal mount.
  13. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    no need to start a new thread for the same question.

    you've been given a lot of good suggestions on finding a bike.

    I might add looking at yard/garage sales, craigslist, local bike shop.
    ask your friends, family & neighbors if they have any old bikes lying around

    older bikes are built sturdy & use smaller tubing. good call on NOT wanting to drill a frame!!

    keep searching & don't get discouraged.
  14. MotorMac

    MotorMac Member


    Not sure where you live, nearest major city, but go to Google and type in police auctions and the name of your city, theres tons of good older bikes on there.
  15. nmoulana

    nmoulana New Member

    Hey guys, I've decided on this bike: I need help on ideas for fitting the front mount on the bike frame. The back mount fits well but the frame is too thick for the front mount. I looked at my universal bolt adapter but the holes are too far apart for the front mount, it looks as if it were designed for the back mount which makes no sense. Any way, I was planning on using these:
    to clamp the frame to the engine. Does anyone have a better suggestion?