Help with tensioner

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by willwills90, Jun 2, 2015.

  1. willwills90

    willwills90 New Member

    Hey guys, big problem here, the tensioner keeps slipping inwards, me and 3 other people tightened so tight that we could barely undo it but it's still moved, it's a big problem because it keeps pulling the chain off the sprocket, I would buy a new tensioner but in saving up for a dirt bike at the moment so spending money isn't really an option,

    Thanks,

    Will
     

  2. butre

    butre Well-Known Member

    attach it to the seat stay instead of the chainstay, have it pull the chain upwards.
     
  3. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

    also, it is being forced by a chain that is too tight - never adjust the chain before checking to find the tightest spot by turning thru a full turn of back wheel - when you find where chain is tightest, adjust it there for about 1/2 inch of slack - after adjusting roll the bike a bit to be sure you got it right
     
  4. AssembleThis

    AssembleThis Member

    Tensioner Which Cant Fail

    Hi willwills90
    Do yourself a favor and either make a tensioner which can not run into your wheel spokes or buy one, the stock one is an accident waiting to happen. If your riding at 25mph and it runs into the wheel you could be seriously hurt or killed not to mention the expense to get your mb repaired if that is at all possible.
    This is what I did to fix mine, cost less than $20 and it's impossible for the tensioner to ever run into my wheel.

    http://i.imgur.com/O3sHfG0.jpg

    Made from a peace of scrap steel, 2 pipe clamps threaded down all the way, a ten tooth idler pulley, 415 chain. The bike has over 700 miles on it and has never failed. Let me know if you need anymore info on it.
    Oh I forgot to mention the idler is captured by mdf plastic the type used for making jigs, the plastic is captured by huge washers I made out of scrap steel, by doing this it's almost impossible for the chain to slip off the idler. At least I can tell you it never has for over 700 miles. I also check all the bolts and tensioner before each ride just to be safe. The nuts are all lock nuts, the idler bolt is a quality bolt cut to size with lock nut.
    Hope this helps and keeps you from getting hurt.
     
  5. Purple Haze

    Purple Haze Active Member

    The reason the tensioner pulls toward the inside is that the chain is misaligned. If the front and rear sprockets are lined up correctly, and the tensioner pulley is straight, you'll never have a problem if the bracket is tight. Get some good quality bolts and locknuts. Sometimes, the bracket needs to be bent a little due to the angle of the chainstay. You want the pulley inline with the chain itself, not the chainstay. There is always the old trick of staking the bracket, which involves drilling a small (the smaller the better) hole and installing a drift pin, which will stop any movement of the bracket, but could weaken the chainstay. The best solution is to make or purchase a spring-loaded tensioner, which has enough movement built in to correct any minor misalignment in the chain or rear sprocket. The rear sprocket is a common problem area, as it is near impossible to get it perfectly centered.
     
  6. canalcat

    canalcat Member

    Attatch from top !! I tore up my whole back wheel going only13 mph OUCH!!!
     
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