Hey there! (I'm new here, and a bit overwhelmed)

Not for that frame. Mounting the Happy Time above the V you'll get a chain obstruction.

Look for a ladies frame with two down tubes like this guy:
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=9230

I'm still pretty amazed by this,and the so many different configurations this Happy Time would fit on.
 
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That bike is pretty amazing. It seems like such a tight squeeze but it works! I wish I could do the same, but that seems impossible with my frame. Still, the number of possible configurations for happy time motors are cool.

I think my leading candidate at the moment is one of staton's friction drive kits, as I'd like to be able to switch easily from pedal power to motor power. Actually, I'd like to get one of the GEBE kits idealy, but I'm not sure I want to drop that much money on my first build.
 
Hi Codefish. Welcome to MBc!

If you search and are unable to find your answers, don't hesitate to post your question. Someone will steer you to a link, or reply to your question. Were here for each other! Enjoy! :D
You may have seen this, but here's a great MBc starter "link" to get you motoring.
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=10392
 
You do need a certain amount of mechanical ability to install a typical frame mount kit. Seems like with the problems some people have, you need to know a little about " jacklegging " too. If this intimidates you, you want something simple , dependable, easy to install & remove,,,, look at some of the " friction " drive kits.
 
Yeah, that's what I was thinking. I'm sure I'd be able to work with a chain drive engine (I'd figure things out eventually), but the friction drive kits just seem so much simpler. I really would rather not have to spend massive amounts of time troubleshooting, fine-tuning, and the likes. The friction drive really appeals to me with it's simplicity -- it's more likely to be something I'll spend more time riding than trying to figure out how to fix, although I'm sure the drive is not without its own problems (extra wear and tear). How do the friction drive kits fare when it comes to hill climbing? I'm not talking about particularly steep hills, but I will have to deal with some lengthy slopes.

Oh, and thanks everyone!
 
When I cross over any intercoastal bridge, My bikes goe right up and over.So do my buddy's riding my other bikes! The bikes may slow down some till you hit the peak, but hold your brakes going down the other side!!! I use beach cruisers with coaster brakes because I trust them. My first build was 26'' mountain bike, w/hand brakes that when I let off the throtle, it did'nt stop in time! ROAD KILL!!!! I really trust any bike with coaster brakes. If you have semi light hills & dales, you might be OK with a friction drive!!!!!
 
Hey codefish, If you decide to go friction, don't buy a knockoff. Buy Subaru or Honda 4 stroke. They come with a 2 year engine warranty! Check around on that!
 
Yeah, that's what I was thinking. I'm sure I'd be able to work with a chain drive engine (I'd figure things out eventually), but the friction drive kits just seem so much simpler. I really would rather not have to spend massive amounts of time troubleshooting, fine-tuning, and the likes. The friction drive really appeals to me with it's simplicity -- it's more likely to be something I'll spend more time riding than trying to figure out how to fix, although I'm sure the drive is not without its own problems (extra wear and tear). How do the friction drive kits fare when it comes to hill climbing? I'm not talking about particularly steep hills, but I will have to deal with some lengthy slopes.

Oh, and thanks everyone!

If its laboring or slipping a little just assist with a bit of pedaling. I scoot up average hills with no problem in dry conditions. I pedal slighty up hills if it damp. I also switched my back tire for a smoother ride and less wear.

http://www.staton-inc.com/Results1.asp?Category=3
http://cgi.ebay.com/TIRE-BIKE-CITY-...photoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1713.m153.l1262
 
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People will try to tell you that a friction drive eats up the tires. That is really not true. The rider, may eat up the tires by over-revving, etc., & causing the drive roller to slip on the tire. No reason a $10 tire won't last 1000 miles. I second the recommendation to get a good engine with your kit. They are WORTH the extra money. Most of the rear wheel drive friction kits come with Robin [ Subaru ], Honda, Mitsubishi, Tecumseh, Kawasaki, etc. All these are pretty good engines. One more PLUS for friction drive, is the ability to easily fit a flat on the drive wheel , too. I can remove my kit & completely install it on another bike in 10 minutes. Don't forget, though, that every design, of everything, has some flaws.
 
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