HF 212 Huffy Puch

professor

Active Member
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Joined
Sep 18, 2009
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Location
Buffalo ny area
This is bike 2.
I wanted more power and more riding comfort.
Kind of a hotrod Frankenbike.

The 212 Predator is stock except for re-jetting, doing exhaust and removed aircleaner (gotta make a cleaner and a few other things like guards).
Lots of power.
Initally I set this up with a derailer from the engine but was getting little snapping noises and other noise, so I made it straight drive using what was 3rd gear. The engine has no trouble pulling the gear.
Top speed on the governor is around 30. Gets there fast if needed.

The Frame is an old Huffy mountain with a full suspension rear grafted on. I made loops down the front to accomidate the jackshafts and give it an old time look. Added gussetts on several points.
It does ride nice.
Using a moped seat right now, along with the moped front end and wheels. I'm disappionted with the brakes though. I thought it would stop better. Will be increasing the brake lever legnth at the wheels.
The V brakes on bike 1 are far better- really work well.

I am generating electric using a Razor scooter motor as a dyno, running a 30 tooth #25 (scooter chain) on the engine to a 50 tooth sprocket adapted to the dyno. Works good- giving 11 something volts at governor speed.

This thing weighs 136#, thirty of that is the engine.

Belt drive is nice and quiet. Belt with idler clutch down to a jackshaft, which goes to a bike hub (as a jackshaft) via belt, then out to the rear with 10 speed chain and sprockets. Using "L" series (i/2 inch wide) pulleys and belts. Drive ratio is around 6.8.

Using a HT clutch lever and dual brake lever on the right side.
I hemmed and hawed a long time on wether to use a cent. clutch and chain or the current system.
The cost was about the same, being that I had to buy clutch and brake levers for the belt drive. But the chain drive is incredibly noisy which I hate.

I made a little glasspack muff for up on the engine and the pipe goes down to a cigar shaped 3/4 mower muffler, then to a bit of flex stainless pipe. Fairly quiet- sounds like an old Honda single.

Notes- idlers must be on the SLACK side of the belt. I knew that but somehow got confused. They need to have at least moderate spring pressure to load the belt to avoid slipping.
Pulleys must be free fo rust. Those were my 2 mistakes that took a while to figure out.
 

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Thanks for the kudos guys!

I have been working out little bugs and I appreciate the cushy ride more and more.

The kids I pass, still view it as a bike, judging by their shouts and looks.

I feel safer on this thing because it jumps to max speed quickly if needed.

I tightened the slack in the brakes and they are noticeably better.

The Puch speedo is right on.

No chain issues.
I tried to keep the drive sprocket in a line (as much as possible) to the pivot point of the rear triangle. So as to minimize chain slack over bumps.

Jackshaft setscrews needed to be locktited.

The engine doesn't like to be lugged down for long- seems to load up.
But I am running it down far below the factory 1800 idle speed.
 
I like it! I like the thumb throttle made from a gear shifter. I thought of doing that and wondered how it would work out. I love thumb shifters, and still run them on my mtn bike. They wouldn't be my first choice for racing, but for all other riding, they just have a nostalgic feel and don't let me down miles from town, deep in the forest. It's great that they work with so many derailleurs and cogs that aren't supposed to work with each other, too.
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Back when I did bike #1, I bought a basket case moped with a reg.
Thus, bike one became a Puch. It is a motorcycle plate though.

This bike has a bunch of Puch parts on it and the ID tag riveted to the frame.
There are 3 classes of moped here. Mine is the bottom rung. They are classed by speed.
And the plate is the reason for needing electric power onboard to feed the mandatory lights.
Really - this is the way to go in the Empire (strikes back) state.
 
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