StevelKnievel
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Hi. I just put a Daemon engine in a Schwinn DelMar. I already have problems as seems to be the case with these things.
Hi from Baltimore
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KilroyCD
Active Member
Welcome to MBc, and I like your user name. It gave me a chuckle. What kind of kit did you get and what kind of problems are you having?
StevelKnievel
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My master link is binding as it passes through the tensioner and snapping slightly. I am thinking about bending the tensioner plate so it is not at an angle in relation to front and rear sprockets or I am going master linkless. I'm open to other suggestions if anyone has any.
a/c man
Member
Where in Baltimore are you?
I live between Parkville and Towson, off Joppa rd.
Lets get you running and possibly get together when winter is over and the bike riding season starts again.
Welcome to the forum, there's a great bunch of guys here to help you.
TIM
Bending, actually twisting the tensioner to be aligned with the chain/sprockets is the correct thing to do
I live between Parkville and Towson, off Joppa rd.
Lets get you running and possibly get together when winter is over and the bike riding season starts again.
Welcome to the forum, there's a great bunch of guys here to help you.
TIM
Bending, actually twisting the tensioner to be aligned with the chain/sprockets is the correct thing to do
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DuctTapedGoat
Active Member
Gotta ask this, but have you tried putting the C-clip on the opposite side?
Definitely bend that tensioner mount, it's one of the few things in the kits that are actually metal and can handle it. Be careful with that carriage bolt on the roller - I've seen way too many strip out.
You really don't want to go linkless, and I'll tell you why.
Sometime in the future you're probably going to want to change your rear sprocket to get a different ratio, and when that happens, you're gonna want to be able to change your chain, either change it out or just chop some links. It'll just make it easier. Save it for a last resort.
Hey, welcome to MBc!
Definitely bend that tensioner mount, it's one of the few things in the kits that are actually metal and can handle it. Be careful with that carriage bolt on the roller - I've seen way too many strip out.
You really don't want to go linkless, and I'll tell you why.
Sometime in the future you're probably going to want to change your rear sprocket to get a different ratio, and when that happens, you're gonna want to be able to change your chain, either change it out or just chop some links. It'll just make it easier. Save it for a last resort.
Hey, welcome to MBc!
StevelKnievel
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I am also between Towson and Parkville. I'm between Loch Raven and York, more precisely.
I have heard that putting the clip on the opposite side of the master link can cause the chain to jam on the front sprocket.
I have heard that putting the clip on the opposite side of the master link can cause the chain to jam on the front sprocket.
DuctTapedGoat
Active Member
It's been a while since I last looked for it, but if I recall correctly there's more distance between the chain and the housing on the inside, I know it was for sure on that particular motor, but I haven't checked several since to definitively verify. On an earlier build I actually had the chain snap when the master link clipped the clutch cover - hurt like the ****ens when it whipped into my backside at 35+. Since then, I've always put the master link on the inside of the chain (on the side of the pedal chain), and it's been solid since.
On a different build I had a POP at what seemed to be the masterlink every full chain rotation when I was accelerating at very low (near idle) speeds. I played with the chain tension and I got the same results with under tight and over tight, I went through and remounted the sprocket thinking initially that it was just an offset driven sprocket, but even after I remounted it at dead center the popping remained. What worked for me was just moving the C-clip to the inside of the chain, but of course, every build is different. Depending on the frame and how your chain tensioner is angled to the chain, it may not solve your problem.
As well, your sprocket might not be right for your chain, is it standard bicycle chain, or is it 410/415? I'm not saying it's not clicking at the tensioner, but there's a possiblility it's clicking at the bottom of the sprocket because of the tooth length.
But, I would suggest checking out a few of those things and see if any line up with what you've got going on.
On a different build I had a POP at what seemed to be the masterlink every full chain rotation when I was accelerating at very low (near idle) speeds. I played with the chain tension and I got the same results with under tight and over tight, I went through and remounted the sprocket thinking initially that it was just an offset driven sprocket, but even after I remounted it at dead center the popping remained. What worked for me was just moving the C-clip to the inside of the chain, but of course, every build is different. Depending on the frame and how your chain tensioner is angled to the chain, it may not solve your problem.
As well, your sprocket might not be right for your chain, is it standard bicycle chain, or is it 410/415? I'm not saying it's not clicking at the tensioner, but there's a possiblility it's clicking at the bottom of the sprocket because of the tooth length.
But, I would suggest checking out a few of those things and see if any line up with what you've got going on.
