High compression head............

should see if you can make it out hornsby way and well see who out drags who ;)

100% stock but piped... :giggle:

tis a chrusty pipe so it makes all the difference though...


http://youtu.be/1XeGCsE7lYA


yeah yeah, im gunna do a mission up the old pacific tomoro... might turn the camera on this time :rolleyes:
 
should see if you can make it out hornsby way and well see who out drags who ;)

100% stock but piped... :giggle:

tis a chrusty pipe so it makes all the difference though...


http://youtu.be/1XeGCsE7lYA


yeah yeah, im gunna do a mission up the old pacific tomoro... might turn the camera on this time :rolleyes:

Wow! Nice pipe! I suppose that it's specially designed for the engine?) I like that small gear in the back, higher top end! I have a 35 toother. Dreaming of making a pipe now though. Planning to make one of those Jaguar's new pipe designs with the wide rpm range.
 
remember i only have 20" rims... so i need the small one.

could get away with a 36 on the 26" rims. didnt have a smaller one then, never tried.

honestly notice no difference on this with a 33 or 28... it actually maybe goes a bit faster with the 33... less load, lets it spin faster... iunno :)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ik-FCLmCG6U&feature=youtu.be


movement!

yes, i designed the pipe for the stock engine. though that was a different engine and i have noticed over 10 degree differences in port times across several engines.... mainly on the transfer times. 104 to 114 degrees...hmmm....

cant get too precise anyways. its hard working sheet metal at .1mm increments. cant be done. theres a lot of "rounding off" of figures, just to make the tapers. (ie 272 mm doesnt divide neatly into 25 mm lengths with 1mm rise on the diameter but 275mm does... limits of software and reality, dammit!)

3 days on the PC, using fancy plugins for google sketchup to check on final dimensions and shape, and 2 hours in the workshop...
 
Wow! 20 inchers) I'm thinking of the day when I'll use 29ers on a fatbike frame for the summer weather. Yes, I use a 35 toother on a 26 inch rim. With a 26 inch rim, each tooth is supposed to represent about 1 mph. So I should be able to do 9 mph faster than the 44 tooth setup. I would like to set it up with the new CVT thingy and use a 25 tooth rear sprocket on my 26's.

So that pipe is really cool. I like the design, but I'm afraid it's impossible to bend it more tightly, the way I would like to and not ruin the inner aerodynamics. I see you have it going up where the gas tank usually is. Is it good at low rpm's? That's what I need more of)))
 
a pipe doesnt care how tight a bend you have. the pressure waves take no notice of how sharp the turns are (my first pipe had 1 bend, almost a right angle, that was just a plain mitre, not a smooth curve).

the exhaust gas does like some "aerodynamics" though. just so it can flow without turbulence.

think of plumbing. smack the end of a pipe with your hand, and the pulse is felt at the other end, regardless of the number of bends and twists.

whereas water (a fluid) wants the straightest run possible to flow as fast as possible with minimal turbulence.

what does affect a pipe is changes of section. if you flatten it at all, you need to recalculate length and angle of taper... the reason why i went up and over instead of down and between the cranks. theres only 30mm clearance down below when i needed 70mm at least...

just made it easier.

as it is though, i can make exactly the same pipe as a straight one, or (if i tried) all curled up like a tuba... the basic dimensions stay the same.

low end? huh? never use it. but yes, it will putt along without needing to be pedalled, with almost no throttle. like when passing policeymens... :D its the long 4km uphills that wear it down... :( little ones, no problem, it has a run up, but id go lower gearing if i had to deal with more hills

when i get the license back and these can become nothing but a hobby ill do a monster pipe for the stingray... about 6ft long. wont rev but should make some low down grunt :)
 
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If you'll look at the test results on my web site you will see that there is an ideal length for the pipe for best low end power. Longer than that results in less low end power. On my engine the best extension was 6 inches.
 
So, Jag, are you saying with the stock SBP expansion chamber set up, all I would need to do is add enother 6" of extension? That would be all the total parts SBP sends with kit, then 6" extension with expansion on end, right?
 
Maybe he means the length of the belly of the expansion pipe, the widest part...

By the way, wouldn't a pipe for a 66cc need to be a bit bigger than the pipe for the 55cc?
 
I am sorry I thought you were talking about regular pipe/muffler combo like the long one in the photo.
For an expansion chamber you need to use my Excel file, enter the exhaust and transfer port timings and target peak rpm and mid-header internal temperature (in Celsius) to find the perfect header length for whatever expansion chamber you are using. That is the detailed way.
The poboy method is just experiment with different temporary header lengths till you find the right length that gives you the best top speed, preferrably going slightly uphill.
 
That's fine Jag,


I do appreciate your knowlegde. So, from judd on, what length would you start with on total system of SBP Expantion Chamber? 6", 16", etc?
 
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