Honda and HuaSheng possable Carb MOD

Last edited:
Anyway I removed the Carb and attached a picture. There’s a plastic governor you can see in the picture as the governor is round and the port is square so it can be ported a little also.
I have another guy checking his inventory for the specs on the manifold so it looks good.
I took the restrictor/governor off. I thought it was epoxied but lucky Honda aint that cheap.
I attached another photo.
So probley better off with a custom spacer anyway.
Another thing it wont hurt to port the square port to a round port because I can alway go back to the restrictor plate if needed plobley wont need it but it wont hurt like I said.
Then just get a round mount on there and away the horses go.
Im going to find out the quality of the crankshaft roller bearings then get ahold of king bearing they do me good with percision bearings. well see what going on.
 

Attachments

  • Oct12_005.jpg
    Oct12_005.jpg
    6.1 KB · Views: 619
  • Oct12_006.jpg
    Oct12_006.jpg
    6.4 KB · Views: 619
Last edited:
I just figured it out and it kinda easy but what has to do with easy is SickBikeParts is going to own the 4 stroke 50CC class at the races.
The last test I ran with my shifter I ran the throttle wide open and speed shifted that mean without letting the throttle go.
It ripped all the way for over an hour before I brought it home in one piece. The next morning I made a mistake and broke the chain. With this mod I guarentee you SickBikeParts has the winning setup for you race bicycle racer.
See Ya Later with the goods to back it up.
Next time you try to get over on someone you should make sure you can fool them because I aint the one. Im going to give it all away rite here. Bye Bye easy

Another design I’ve been working on for this project is a fiberglass packed tunable exhaust.

I was going to have a machine shop create a prototype but now I have solved it for an easy solution is just to modify the regular 4-stroke exhaust pipes already sold with an insert for the fiberglass packing and using my dremel to redesign the power band.
I just picked up some fiberglass packing for $11.20 off ebay. I'll show how to make the exhaust soon.
 
Last edited:
I received the carb today and attached a picture.
To get the ch80 carburetor able to perform on the GX50, what is needed is to remove the starting enrichment thermal valve and seal off the internal vacuum chamber. If this is not done the choke will remain on and you would need a 12V battery to allow the choke to turn off.
The reasoning behind this is the GX50 motor needs less gas to start then an 80cc motor. So the starting enrichment thermal valve is not needed. Killing two birds with one stone.
There are also a lot of features on this carburetor like the limiter cap allows high altitude adjustment, air mixture screw (after 1985) that's factory set to 1 ½ turns out.
The throttle assembly adjustment screw conducts the idle adjustment.
So now I'm just waiting on parts.
One bad ting about it is I'm going to have to buy a Honda Elite ch80 throttle assembly as the cable for the carburetor wont interchange with the basic motored bicycle stuff. But on the other hand the cable is real heavy duty so there will be no worry operation.
I attached another picture with the carb and a penny in the slot were the starting thermal enrichment valve used to be. I'm just going to silicone over the penny.
 

Attachments

  • Oct14_001.JPG
    Oct14_001.JPG
    27.6 KB · Views: 576
  • Oct15_003(1).JPG
    Oct15_003(1).JPG
    28.6 KB · Views: 592
Last edited by a moderator:
I guess since I'm putting a penny in the slot and the bike has poker cards on it. A good name will be "One Arm Bandit".
When I was testing the bike last time I noticed at WOT or even half way the bikes rpm would flex.
Today when I took apart the exhaust it doesn’t have a complete seal. I attached a picture but importantly is the steal ring that allowed an internal leak.
So by this exhaust set up it should also take care of that. Parts are coming soon.
If I cant get the intake correct with the parts I ordered that should be close I can just order another exhaust pipe then cut, port and polish it then use it for the intake
 

Attachments

  • Oct15_004.JPG
    Oct15_004.JPG
    24.7 KB · Views: 549
Last edited:
I'm getting real excited about the exhaust so I thought I put it out here.
The end result after the internal and actually the exhaust is complete I plan to have three pieces of small fuel line sticking out the back of the pipe. Two pieces are going to be able to close with brass fitting. This gives the option of running one, two or three pipes allowing the tuning for low, mid range and top tuning.
The rest of the design is almost complete down to a new idea of a red bull can if it fits. If not I'll find something that does and use O-Rings seals.
For me I'm only going to have two fuel lines out the end so I can keep the staging correct. This is a rebuildible design so the insert can be taken out and re modified or rebuilt.
I'm giving the credit to some members of my family.
I attached a picture of the design for the muffler and if the red bull can dont fit just find something that does.
I have some info after reading about the carb its that the carb has two screws for adjustment one being idle and the other air. It looks like a go.
 

Attachments

  • Oct17_001.JPG
    Oct17_001.JPG
    20.1 KB · Views: 586
  • design101.JPG
    design101.JPG
    181.3 KB · Views: 688
Last edited:
Its important to create a seal in the front of the red bull can as best as you can with o-ring's or some JB weld previously dried. As long as its close it will be ok because the rear section of the can is sealed tight.
I added a picture to make the seals simple as Im just going to use the top of a skaol can then JBweld it to reinforce and seal.
Another good idea would be to reinforce the outside of the red bull can with thin wire mesh then JB weld it section at a time.
When rapping the packing around the pipe there's a special tape the pro's use that would burn away later. It kind of needs the tape to insure you get enough of the packing in there. Wheter it burns away or not might not be an issue as long as the holes in the pipe are about 2 inches behind the seal.
The rest is up to your imagination.
I aint in a hurry so it might be while anyway.

The last thing I was worried about was the limiter cap on the airscrew that limits airscrew adjustment and makes you buy new parts every time you overhaul the carb.
So anyway I attached a picture shower were I'm going to machine off the blocker on the carb giving no more limits to what I'm doing.
So anyway I have a green pen pointing to the part I'm cutting off.
The only reason I was worried about it is because the difference in the combustion chamber size might need a new adjustment.

There's no excuse for that being on there. I still cant imagine why its there.
 

Attachments

  • Oct18_001.JPG
    Oct18_001.JPG
    26.3 KB · Views: 551
  • Oct18_002.JPG
    Oct18_002.JPG
    21.9 KB · Views: 576
Last edited by a moderator:
Check out this hog of a intake manifold. I need to order a few more parts but I only spend a certain amount a month on what I'm doing.
I was using a small rotary tool and I'm going to need something better so I'll get a real dremel.

The bore on the intake in the picture is to large (24mm) I just put it up there. It was off a crf50.
There's an intake off of a Honda Trail 70 that's only 21mm bore. I'm going to get one of those.
I thought the intake in the picture would be funny.
 

Attachments

  • Oct20_001.JPG
    Oct20_001.JPG
    25.7 KB · Views: 742
Last edited:
I was looking for an intake with 18mm intake hole and finally found one.
Its going to need a little dremel work but it will be fine for cutting in half and using a hose to connect the two pieces.
http://www.motorparts4less.com/products.php?id=38

I don't know if anyone has ever seen one of these before but check it out, a universal intake adapter. The smallest intake hole I could find was 22.4MM and the one here is 22.5MM. Its not good for me The one above is a perfect intake hole size of 18MM.

Ebay item number 330304544044
 
Last edited:
Honda recommends a 7800 rpm limit on that engine, the big end on the rod is a plain bearing and not known to live at high rpm.With the intake opened up its going to rev beyond 8000 rpm.
 
Back
Top