How Do I install PIn in Small the Gear.

[will_start]

In a Galaxy Far Far Away, or How to install a Woodruff Key Vid.

Good points papasaun.Thats the thing with 2 strokes, is it getting gas, is it getting air and is there a spark.
If I were you "will start", I would pull the sparkplug first to see if it sparks,You would do this by leaving s/p hanging on top of head , so that you can see spark.
A great way to find fuel probs. is to get one of those spray bottles from a dollar store and fill with your mixed gas/oil. Take off air filter and as you are starting the engine spray fuel into carb. If it starts, you can spray,spray,spary to keep it running. If this helps it run, you know it's fuel probs.This would be better if you had a pull-start but maybe you could get a pal to help,running beside you spraying the bottle, or even better, just pushing you. This will almost always start the motor if you have fuel probs.
If all of this is of no help, I would next make sure the wires are OK,you could have a short or some other stupid ,goofy thing that you overlooked.
As I think of your post I have to ask myself why you were messing with the key, was there a bad misfire/backfire? Could this have caused a timing issue?
I will wait for more info,good luck! Also, did you use fuel filter, if not , do it!

Thanks cooltoy, I used to own an old VB beetle and sometimes when things were bad with it, the only way to start it was with a product called

AeroStart.

They still sell this stuff and if it made the out of tune Beetle start,
then I have thought of buying it to try on the bike.
Its like some sorta nitro mix, so it gets in and makes a bad, cold, or flooded
motor start.

To answe your Question:
I was told by my supplier that the reason my clutch no longer engaged the motor was that I had broken the key. Probably due to pushing the bike from a
stationary position, with clutch out, he said this is known to break the key.

I remember doing this with a spark test.

I like your idea however as I could surely customise a spray bottle
to make it sit under the cross bar, and feed a tube into the carb side of the
air filter.

I'll try anything at this stage...

As described previously,
I tried the new carbie today, and it makes a better sound than the one in the vid (original carbie). but starting takes several goes at a steep hill, and then conks out after about 300meters riding.

I am missing a gasket for the carbie to motor seal.
so I think that may be the cause.

Would a mower shop stock this gasket...

If you check the below vid,
it shows the woodruff key install
also shows a couple of pics
of the caliper method I used to
get control of the choke.
Its actually easier than using the normal choke.
The caliper cost me $3 from a shop in Australia
called The Warehouse.


This was especially relevant to my bike,
as it had a variable choke sweet spot depending on the slope of the rode
I was on.

Ok, I have collected my mobile phone camera pictures
of the woodruff key install into a video on YouTube.

Hope you like.

This is on topic, and shows the key at its "installed"
position of 12 O Clock. This varies dependant on the spin of the axle.
As I mentioned in a previous post, was at 5 Oclock before.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_CqUZ0EtGiA


CYA


Will Start

 

[Scottm]

If you solve that one, let me know. I personally have a three page list of things that don't help.

rotflmbo. I hear ya' loud and clear. Go read the 12 steppers thread, it's usually something small.
Everything that everyone has said is right on and doesn't leave anything out. Make sure the spark plug wire is fully screwed into the CDI and making a good connection. Check all your wire connections and dittos on disconnecting the kill switch.

Yeah, the gasket will help. Just go to the auto parts store and get a roll or sheet of gasket material and make your own, that way you can always have some handy.

Great team work guys.

 

[cooltoy]

Hi Willstart, I've made up my mind, that is one cool video and you have a lot of talent.
Way to go guy! I'd always thought it was the other key, on the clutch, not that it matters but still, it just goes to show that a picture really is worth a thousand words.
That product you name, I would not use "Quick start" kind of stuff if that is what this product is as the stuff can be very hard on an engine. On the other hand, there are times when we bang our heads against a wall and get to the point that......well, you understand...lol. I also do as Scottm, just get the paper and that way you have lots on hand for times of need.I have a couple of punches that knock out a nice hole for the 10 mil. nuts and I use a sharp blade to cut the other hole. I know that I have to change mine every few months as they tend to "blow". As for my spray bottle, I don't think I would do as you say, this is just a way to see if the motor will run without having to do a lot of work. If it runs this way, you know it's a carb issue or at least fuel related. I have that choke sweet spot as well, not always but there are times that, if I bog out, I give it choke for a second or two and it then winds out. Anyways, great vid and hope to see more! Oh, good music as well!

 

[srdavo]

Cool video!! great song choice.

thanks for the look inside a happytimes.

 

[ibdennyak]

Dood....that's impressive. Nice job. When MBc decides to remake Easy Rider I nominate you as creative genius. I'll also donate my bike. It ain't no Captain America....maybe colonel Alaska, but it'll do. And then Augie can have you make instructional dvd's. We'll be famous.

Denny

 

[will_start]

5 things I'm left to try til happy times arrive.

Thanks ibdennyak srdavo cooltoy,

Thanks for nice comments on the video.
After that I'm going to make another,
had 21 views in 2 days, so obviously
others have looked at it.

Can you take the head off and the barrel off without having
to replace the motor gaskets ?

I still have a motor problem however.
As its an unreliable ride.
I would love this motor to be as reliable as my car.
I guess for $200, you have to accept you spend time rather than
money.

I know its off the subject line but worth the update.

5 things I'm left to try to make my motor run are:

1. Carbie intake gasket.

I "lost" its inlet gasket somehow.
I'm going to try and source one from a shop, rather than online
via supplier. I hate getting charged $8 delivery for a $2 part.

2. Fuel filter. I once put on an inline filter and the motor
just would not start, maybe it was a bad filter.
Going to see if I can source one.

3. Tanks/Valve filter and tank clean out.
My supplier advised me to empty and clean out my tank with Methylated Spirits.
and Once after doing that the motor actually started and ran.

4. Replace Engine Barrel

My motor came with a hole in the front of it about the size of a 10cent
piece. (5mm high by 7mm long)
I plugged it with metal cement and gasket goo, but feel it's probably
a leak point. My supplier offered to replace it free.
So I may take him up on that.

5. Remove kill switch.

I do my own stunts and soldering, and I saw someone say the
kill switch can affect the motor performance if its faulty.

What else can I try ?

I know, Reading posts, searching etc etc.
Done that, and am finding more info...

One thing I wish to know,

Can you take the head off and the barrel off without having
to replace the motor gaskets ?

As that would be something I need to do.

CYA

Will Start
(Living in Sydney, Australia)

PS I'm glad I don't rely on this beast for transport,
as I'd be doing alot of bus riding. I have a second bike,
which since I got the motor has done 90% of my rides.
One day I hope to get that figure down to 10%.

 

[cooltoy]

I notice you are online now so I hope I can catch you now. Before going any further in trying to help you, I want to ask you why all the bother if guy is going to give you new case? Is there any leakage at the spot you "fixed"?

 

[will_start]

RE: hole in motor.

Hey cooltoy

Well the barrell or case as you call it is on offer if I need it.
the only reason he made the offer was in sympathy with my constant
efforts to make the bike run.

He said the hole would make no performance difference
and BTW those 5 things are about 30 % of the things I've tried.

The barrel replacement question still stands,
Do I need to replace the gaskets, if I am to pull it out.

I have not seen any leaks from that "fixed" hole, so feel its working...

I've been told once you if undo an engine all gaskets are then useless,
and must be replaced, but that advice could be only relevant to
cars etc.

I have found it hard to seperate fact from myth with the people
I have spoken to about motors.

Today I bought a sheet of gasket paper, so I'm going to make my own
inlet gasket and try that. (point 1).
also bought an over-sized fuel filter (point 2),

Was so tempted to buy that aero-start product.
Here's a link to it:
It works on faulty old cars too.

http://www.crcind.com.au/catalogue.nsf/web_brands/Aerostart?openDocument

But I'm holding off until its the last resort.
Anyone tried this or similar products ?

To quote some else:

If you solve that one, let me know. I personally have a three page list of things that don't help.

CYA

Will Start

 

[cooltoy]

Glad to hear you got the gasket paper,just take your time when making gasket. There will be some that may think I'm nuts but I see no probs with re-using your gaskets as long as they are in good shape. I'm going to guess that the lower gasket is paper but I could be wrong. If it is paper, make sure it did not get all streatched out of shape when it was removed.I think this one would tend to glue itself to the metal. The reason I asked if the repair you did on the block was leaking is because there is pressure in there. if no leak, thats great,leave it.As for the fuel filter, make sure you install with arrow pointing in proper direction. I guess you could say that the arrow should point towards the carb. I think that could have been your mistake with the last one.That is a very important thing to use as a bit of rust or **** can really scratch up your insides.
I hope that covered everything, if not just ask away!

 

[will_start]

gasket paper

thanks for the advice,

I had a choice of paper or cork paper,
I chose the cork variety, as it was thicker.
which hopefully equals a better seal.

How would I know if there's a leak or not ?

I returned the previous inline filter, as the bike just stopped
after I installed it, and yes the arrow was in the right direction.
I'm going to see if I can get the bike running and then install the filter.

Change too many things at once, and you don't know which one fixed it...

WS.