How Do I Raise My Engine?

[5-7HEAVEN]

Denny, I'm surprised you had enough leverage from the pivot. I would've presumed you attached the cable at the tail end near the rear supports.

Yep, it's for the front drive assembly. If I dilly-dally with the rear chain drive, it'll also be for the rear drive assembly.

 

[vegaspaddy]

you see sooner or later someone always shows up and helps you out,

http://www.motoredbikes.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=5650&d=1207050321

this is what i am going to try and add the friction roller too. DE edge has one mounted to a simular bike,rear wheel, although its a tadpole and not a delta, i just hope theirs enough room up front otherwise its going to take some crazy rear fabbing. the engine will be the mits 43 probably too powerful.....

 

[ibdennyak]

yeah, my ange bracket started at almost 6 inches long.....pulled easily, but didn't move far enough, should have taken some pics before I wrecked it I guess.

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

Good luck, Vegas. Instead of fabricating, you can always use Staton's front friction drive kit, which will bolt on. I have dual Mits 43cc engines. Everyone has different power requirements. Maybe a Honda or Subaru engine might suit your liking.

That bike has front disc brake, which clears the Staton motor mount. A v-brake would pose clearancing issues.

Denny, I'm gonna place the lever near the rear support struts.

 

[hill climber]

how does that thing pull up hill. i just did a duel friction, both home built, and WOW is all i got to say. i have a ht"80cc" ported, port timing change,expansion chamber, shifter kit and this thing has way more power. have fun with it. HEY!! DO A WHEELIE! hill climber

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

Dual engines pull hardest in low and midrange, depending on which roller used. I have 1.25" spindle up front. If you start off with the powerful front engine, the rear engine kicks in like the secondaries of a four-barrel carburetor. If you start off with the rear engine and 1.5" roller, it feels like a supercharger kicked in the moment you throttle the front engine.

Whether flying down the flats or charging uphill, the front engine accelerates the bike quickly, then redlines. By this time the rear engine with 1.5" roller is higher than normal up its rpm range and flying. Driving uphill, you can hear the rear engine's rpm drop, so you just throttle the front engine to its peak, then drop it to idle until it needs to assist again. The major problem is the substantial drag from the idling front engine that the rear engine has to overcome. When I rig the lever to raise the front engine, it'll reduce a LOT of rolling resistance at the top end. When the rear drive gets retrofitted with Staton or Titan chain drive, it should eliminate most of the drag.

 

[vegaspaddy]

hows the mod. coming along get some photos up, nothing speaks better than pics.
That will be a neat setup once you get the rear chain drive on the back and friction on front, thats going to be be one insane ride.

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

I'm transferring the Staton hub and 7-gear from my Dahon rim to a HD 26" rim with Wheelsmith 12g spokes. A visit to Home Depot should locate the lever, bracket and springs/bungee cords to raise the engine. Work and school interferes with play, so maybe next week I'll have it done.

 

[vegaspaddy]

hi 5-7, i was surffing staton site and i found in the photo gallery, diagrams and picks of a bike which has an engagement system with clear photos, might be of some use to you check it out.

http://www.staton-inc.com/photo_gallery_large.asp?PhotoID=159
http://www.staton-inc.com/photo_gallery_large.asp?PhotoID=158
http://www.staton-inc.com/photo_gallery_large.asp?PhotoID=160

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

Thanks, vegas. I saw that early on this website or another, and on youtube. It looks complicated to me, and that recumbent has more space to work with. I'm leaning towards a simple clutch cable/lever. I have the cable and lever mounted, just need to figure out the final connection.