How do I weld motor mount?

Discussion in 'Painting, Welding, Bending and Gas Tanks' started by m3h5l5, Jul 28, 2014.

  1. Was planning on fab a bar that would be welded to the end of the shifter that would put it in more ideal location either to be used as a hand shifter or possibly even get it bent down closer to the pedals to keep it a traditional foot shifter
     

  2. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    That could work then, maybe even consider a fancy combo of the two, using heavier cable and a foot lever of the same approximate size you could make a pivot end like the original lever has, and a cable to connect the 2 ends, see drawing..

    Wish I could fit thus in a Stingray, it's just a few inches too small... Note081216_1.jpg
     
  3. Dont even know if it will fit the frame by eyeballing it, it looks to be very close with slight modification
     
  4. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    I was looking at that motor, all I could find was something similar, but it was I believe 17in long by 8.25in tall by 10.25in wide... Not what I could use in a Stingray without chopping up the bike and probably weakening the frame to be useless... Unless I welded something rather hideous into it lol...
     
  5. Same dimensions i came up with but until i actually start building its all guesswork
     
  6. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    Meanwhile I did figure out a 79cc predator engine will fit into the frame, with a special manual clutch and an adapter, throwing in a modified jackshaft I could make a shifting bike using a nuvinci hub, only looking at about probably $1000 to build.........

    Not sure if I want to blow that much on a second bike, I have difficulty understanding how I put that much into my first bike in parts alone, let alone the other nearly a grand in replacement parts...
     
  7. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    I wish you the best luck, that fat tire bike you picked has me drooling, I got some sorta intimate feelings for them, the Stingray I want to start on will probably get some 3 inch tire in the front. Either 26 or a 27.5
     
  8. sh*t my first build was only $500 now my second build i want something more reliable so im gonna go with a 4 stroke powerhouse either its this build as ive outlined or its gonna be my ideal for a 22hp v-twin trike either way im looking at about a grand
     
  9. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    Uhhh... Well I think you wanted a 3 wheeled bike for stability right? In snowy conditions? Erm... Well a v twin of that magnitude should probably be used in something way beefier than a bike frame, and lower, and closer to the middle. Oh and not to mention going 100mph is never a good idea in the snow or anywhere except for Germany...

    Id settle for the 79cc,or take a small hop up and find a Honda gx100 engine clone, it's 98cc, but still manageable on a bicycle and the bike will hold up (that v-twin is over a hundred f***ing pounds! You. And the motor will spell flat tire city if the steel tubes don't fold like cooked spaghetti first haha but I like the enthusiasm you've got for it I'll tell you that much.)

    Durability often comes not from the type of parts, but the ability to separate them from the outside world, a bearing exposed to the dirt and water will be destroyed and pulverized in no time, but put 2 rubber seals on it and the life expectancy will be multiplied a hundred fold.

    Then say on the jackshaft, use not just 2 bearings as the load handlers, but 4 very well aligned bearings, which doesn't just halve the load on the original bearings, but does as much as 1/8th'ing the load, because the leverage forces and twist forces are removed from the ends of the shaft, and they become linear forces across 2 bearings AND the shaft, that means that the balls in the bearings are distributing the pull force more evenly between each other, giving force loads across more than half the bearing vs roughly a quarter, that's half the force, halved twice, as each bearing only has to hold half the weight, and half the leverage forces because now the shaft supports itself, or 1/8th for those of you counting at home.

    Then look at chain options, there's #41 chain that costs $15 for 10 feet, or $25 for 3 feet, the difference in quality really is amazing as soon as you hold actual quality parts in your hand. Ask the go kart people, they know what I'm talking about here.

    Then one of the biggest killers is lack of alignment, you can line up sprockets by eye and be just mm or 2 off and the properly fitting chain will eat its way through one, the other, or both, including itself, with time, bigger forces, bigger teeth, bigger bites, less drivetrain faster. Make sure you align align align, it's seriously important for longevity. A 11 speed bike chain used on a single speed bike, properly aligned, will take a serious beating of use a lot longer than the same chain being used lighter on a multi speed hub, the chain has to be misaligned to run on it, and that just kills it. I have my chains, with an internally geared hub, aligned perfectly, being internal means no external shifts, so my alignment remained constant, I have the same chain since November, always riding, and I only lubed it once, when I installed it, with wax (my wax is a rather special formulation, it's become tacky with time but it's still very much there, but I will also admit with the fuel leak here and there, the chains might be getting free clean lube every time I take it out, so it ends up the detergents are just cleaning and relubing my chains indefinitely, I'll put it down as a win in any case.)

    Which is third on the list, lube it up baby, keep the bearings greased, small engines generally get a change every 100 hours, make sure the chains are PROPERLY lubricated, which means no effing wd-40 or household cooking oil!

    A small trick I used on my jackshaft is I noticed when I took it apart long ago, the bearings begin to eat into the shaft, perhaps not eat but wear, it just shows the steel is softer than the bearing race, when I replaced it I heated it up nice red hot where the bearings would rest on the keyed shaft, then dropped it in used motor oil to harden and temper the steel, it prevents the wear from happening easily if at all, also makes it easy to remove the shaft from the bearing, and most importantly keeps the shaft rotating along its center rather than just a hair off center, which at those speeds and forces just a tiny bit is actually a lot, which ends up ruining the bearings, giving play, which helps the sprockets and chain wear faster.

    Erm... Well yeah that's about it, but if you put a v-twin in a 3 wheeled bicyle please get a friend to video tape you breaking the sound barrier along with probably a few laws, a car chase would be nice too, don't wear a helmet so the police won't try to run you off the road so much, thanks!
     
  10. Erm... Well yeah that's about it, but if you put a v-twin in a 3 wheeled bicyle please get a friend to video tape you breaking the sound barrier along with probably a few laws, a car chase would be nice too, don't wear a helmet so the police won't try to run you off the road so much, thanks!

    That part is just hilarious and yes it would definitely be recorded and also everything would be reinforced with welding steel support bars and with the weight yeah its a heavy engine but a very powerful one i dont think i would ever attempt to get it up to 100 but maybe 60 would be nice also if i went with this ideal i would be redoing the whole rear end as far as wheels, tires and possibly so if theres a way to use disk brakes on a trike possibly use some motorcycle rim and tire set
     
    Frankfort MB's likes this.
  11. Frankfort MB's

    Frankfort MB's Well-Known Member

    If I was you I'd want to use a 212 predator. A lot more torque than the 79cc....
    A lot more mods you can do to the 212 too:p
     
  12. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    You wouldn't have to attempt 100mph, that would be your idle speed.
     
  13. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    Unless you gear it all down with a small 4 tooth on the engine and a 130 tooth on the back, you might get the idle speed down to the lower 70s
     
  14. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    743-817_A.jpg
    Nope he wants 650cc v twin, I guess it's go big or don't go at all, I have a suggestion... A cool 1098ccs, should be enough for his needs, and only nine and a half grand what a bargain! 743-817_A.jpg
     
  15. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    Format error, I meant 3 engines on one bike, not just 2
     
  16. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    Wait scrap that just use one of these! F100_F-15_engine.JPG
     
    Jeffrey gagnon likes this.
  17. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    Or this, if green is your color. Might clash with the bikes blue paint job though bikemotor.jpg
     
  18. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    One of these to change the shaft output direction so you can link it up to the rear wheel and you be set! Even change the gear ratio so you can get optimal speed and torque. transmission.jpg
     
  19. That has been done look up jet bike on youtube
     
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