How do you Improve the Grip of a Drive Roller?
- Thread starter Fender100
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Happy Valley
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Dimension Edge says they use Aspen (Poplar). I don't think anything fancy is necessary, any dimension grade 5/4 lumber will suffice.
def215
Member
i have experience with spindle drive, but on gopeds. i have the sand/cutoff disk dust coating on my spindles and it works pretty well. i have no clutch and run a 4-stroke motor so i have torn a chunk of the sand coating material off by bump starting it. but other than that, i get real good traction with the spindle. heres a pic of a spindle ive done:
i have this one prepped because ill be doing a friction drive bike soon.
the sandpaper spindle sound interesting and i kinda wanna try that
i have this one prepped because ill be doing a friction drive bike soon.
the sandpaper spindle sound interesting and i kinda wanna try that
rawly old
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I think in this case the tire can be a variable even in 2 of the same type. I've
got 4 friction setups, two kits, two homegrown. They all work reasonably well
as far a roller traction is concerned,( the jb & #36 grit does fine,but wears quickly).
If you're having problems at 50 psi, up it to 55 psi. This lets one exert more down
pressure without increasing the compression depth into the tire. The density of
the rubber can vary even within a given tire and temperature can also affects
the rubber considerably.
I live in a clime even wetter than England. On a cold morning my tire will
invariably have a flat spot on the bottom. It takes about 5 mins. riding time
for the rubber to flex enough to behave properly. I think a little extra inflation
is a definite plus in wet cold conditions.
got 4 friction setups, two kits, two homegrown. They all work reasonably well
as far a roller traction is concerned,( the jb & #36 grit does fine,but wears quickly).
If you're having problems at 50 psi, up it to 55 psi. This lets one exert more down
pressure without increasing the compression depth into the tire. The density of
the rubber can vary even within a given tire and temperature can also affects
the rubber considerably.
I live in a clime even wetter than England. On a cold morning my tire will
invariably have a flat spot on the bottom. It takes about 5 mins. riding time
for the rubber to flex enough to behave properly. I think a little extra inflation
is a definite plus in wet cold conditions.
rawly old
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Well...
Here's a thought, something I've used in other applications, emery
is twice as hard as quartz sand. Get some #36 grit emery paper,
burn it, and pan out the grit to use with JB instead of sand. I'm
quite sure it will last considerably longer.
Personally, living here in the Pacific Northwest, I've given up on fric-
drive, at least in the wet months. It's just pretty useless on wet, oily,
mossy streets. I've just finished remanufacturing my funky BGF
FD into a whizzer-like belt drive, and I am enormously happy with the
results. So much so that I'm considering doing the same thing with my
Staton FD on my other bike.
Here's a thought, something I've used in other applications, emery
is twice as hard as quartz sand. Get some #36 grit emery paper,
burn it, and pan out the grit to use with JB instead of sand. I'm
quite sure it will last considerably longer.
Personally, living here in the Pacific Northwest, I've given up on fric-
drive, at least in the wet months. It's just pretty useless on wet, oily,
mossy streets. I've just finished remanufacturing my funky BGF
FD into a whizzer-like belt drive, and I am enormously happy with the
results. So much so that I'm considering doing the same thing with my
Staton FD on my other bike.
rawly old
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ratdogg,
What u need is an aluminum 20" bike wheel; this will make a perfect rear
sheave pulley:
1.) remove spokes from one side only on the 20"
2.) remove axle from 20" and a 26" and run a pencil down thru the centers
to center 20 over 26 spokeless side down.
3.) mark each place where 26 spokes meet the 20 rim.
4.) set a circular saw to 3/8" depth and cut 1/8" wide notches at the marks
after removing the remaining spokes. mount it to wheel and secure by running
bailing wire behind the spokes next to rim. (or any way that works for you)\
the resulting sheave is the same size as a plastic GEBE ring.
I'll try to post pics here, but right now the wife's got the camera visit nephew & family.
What u need is an aluminum 20" bike wheel; this will make a perfect rear
sheave pulley:
1.) remove spokes from one side only on the 20"
2.) remove axle from 20" and a 26" and run a pencil down thru the centers
to center 20 over 26 spokeless side down.
3.) mark each place where 26 spokes meet the 20 rim.
4.) set a circular saw to 3/8" depth and cut 1/8" wide notches at the marks
after removing the remaining spokes. mount it to wheel and secure by running
bailing wire behind the spokes next to rim. (or any way that works for you)\
the resulting sheave is the same size as a plastic GEBE ring.
I'll try to post pics here, but right now the wife's got the camera visit nephew & family.
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